Brake disc callipers

[sparky Paul]

I think you edited my quote as well culzean, I never wrote that bit about ratchet clicking! 

You should never edit a quote, not even spelling mistakes. culzean. I think you had better edit your post to reflect the truth.

To be fair, I think he did it by mistake - he also put identical text in his reply, and it's completely out of context in my quote.

[culzean]

I think you edited my quote as well culzean, I never wrote that bit about ratchet clicking! 

U R correct,  my cursor must have been jumping about ......did not do it knowingly - been having slow responses from this website and it causes problems sometimes.

[culzean]

I think you edited my quote as well culzean, I never wrote that bit about ratchet clicking! 

You should never edit a quote, not even spelling mistakes. culzean. I think you had better edit your post to reflect the truth.

Must have included quotes in thousands of posts and never managed to edit one before 

[sparky Paul]

U R correct,  my cursor must have been jumping about ......did not do it knowingly

I know it wasn't intentional 

[mj1sjc]

I didn't count how many clicks, but I did pull it up all the way as much as I could. I've done a video clip to show this new problem to do with the hand brakes. This was filmed when the car going down hill with the automatic gear lever on "N " position. But sadly I cannot upload it due to the size and I don't know how to cut the resolution down in order to post it up on here...
Just wondering if I could forward the video to someone so they knows how to upload it on here with a smaller resolution pls.?

 So, just to re- cap- my friend's friend did a private job on my car putting on with both new rear discs and pads + new rear Left Caliper yesterday.

Troubles now are- 1, I've got to push so hard the brake paddle to stop the car (previously it wasn't like that and car stops witj a tiny efforts in pusing the brake paddle down)

2, really weak hand brake.

I just realised today the hand break has very little or no resistant at all even I pull it up all the way. Ive tested the handbrake car facing downhill with the gear on N.

How many clicks does it go up?

Rear pads normally take a few hundred miles of normal driving to fully bed in, less if new discs are also fitted.

With new discs and pads fitted, you should see completely even wear appearing on the face of the discs. If the discs continue to wear unevenly, you could have a seizing caliper, seized slider pin/s, or scale left on the carrier is causing the new pads to stick. This can also interfere with the handbrake auto adjustment.

[Jocko]

Just wondering if I could forward the video to someone so they knows how to upload it on here with a smaller resolution pls.?

Post it on YouTube then post a link here, as I do.

[sparky Paul]

Troubles now are- 1, I've got to push so hard the brake paddle to stop the car (previously it wasn't like that and car stops witj a tiny efforts in pusing the brake paddle down)

2, really weak hand brake.

Do you have to push the brake pedal further down than before, and does it feel 'spongey'?

[mj1sjc]

Correct!

Troubles now are- 1, I've got to push so hard the brake paddle to stop the car (previously it wasn't like that and car stops witj a tiny efforts in pusing the brake paddle down)

2, really weak hand brake.

Do you have to push the brake pedal further down than before, and does it feel 'spongey'?

[sparky Paul]

Sounds like there could still be some air in the hydraulics. I would recommend, at the very least, re-bleeding the circuit/s that's been worked on. Air in the system can also interfere with the auto adjustment, if you can't build up enough hydraulic pressure to index the internal adjusters.

When working on these brake hydraulics it is very important that you do not allow any air to enter the system from the brake fluid reservoir - i.e. under no circumstances let it run dry whilst bleeding. If you do, you may need a specialist diagnostic tool to remove any air trapped in the ABS modulator.

[mj1sjc]

I've contacted the guy who did the repair and he said I should drive more and the handbrake will get back to normal afterwards. Ive done 40 miles so far and give another 2 weeks more to complete 200 miles in total and take it from there...

Its very wired, ive had Toyota and ford brake pads and discs changed before and never had any issues like this to loose the resistance on the hand brake and the brake paddle...

[sparky Paul]

I've contacted the guy who did the repair and he said I should drive more and the handbrake will get back to normal afterwards.

What did he say about the foot brake? 40 miles of normal driving should be more than enough to bed in a brand new set of discs and pads, even rear ones, and as the front brakes do most of the stopping, it shouldn't affect braking noticeably. The handbrake has nothing to do with the footbrake pedal travel.

How far down can you push the brake pedal? If it's near the floor and feels spongey, you need to take care as you may have reduced stopping power from all the brakes, including the front.

It's not always easy to diagnose remotely, but this doesn't sound at all normal. If the foot brake is as poor as you say, it needs attending to ASAP. I would also check the brake fluid level in the reservoir, make sure you aren't losing it anywhere.

[culzean]

That spongy feel to the brakes is either failing rubber hoses ( a long shot ) or air in the brakes ( 99.9% ).  Getting air into an ABS system is a no-no,  if it gets into the pump it can create 'mayonnaise' as the pump whips the air into the fluid.  The other thing is that once air gets into ABS valve block  it can get trapped by the various valves in there,  and to open those valves needs a special software.  Normally the fluid goes through the block straight from the master cylinder to the brake cylinder,  but if a wheel starts to lock up under braking the valve in the block that controls that wheel cylinder will release brake pressure to that wheel and pulse pressurised fluid from the ABS pump to the wheel. Also the ABS is part of the VSA ( vehicle stability assist ) which can apply brake to certain wheels to help stop car skidding or for traction control.   When bleeding an ABS system a lot of extra care is needed to ensure master cylinder reservoir never gets empty.   The reason I like the MityVac is that the fairly small reservoir to hold extracted fluid is a bit smaller than the volume of the master cylinder reservoir,  so as the Mityvac bottle starts to get full it is a warning to stop sucking, close off the bleed nipple and top up the master cylinder. 

A failing wheel cylinder seal will mean fluid leaking out onto brake and level dropping in reservoir,  a failing master cylinder seal will allow fluid to bypass back into reservoir when you press brake pedal,  may result in these symptoms.

https://oards.com/brake-master-cylinder-symptoms-and-cost/

[BrummPopBang]

... Getting air into an ABS system is a no-no,  if it gets into the pump it can create 'mayonnaise' as the pump whips the air into the fluid.  The other thing is that once air gets into ABS valve block  it can get trapped by the various valves in there,  and to open those valves needs a special software...

I noticed this on Wheeler Dealers with one of their refurbs. Totally new to me. I pity the guy who falls into this wormhole.

[embee]

....... The reason I like the MityVac is that the fairly small reservoir to hold extracted fluid is a bit smaller than the volume of the master cylinder reservoir,  so as the Mityvac bottle starts to get full it is a warning to stop sucking, close off the bleed nipple and top up the master cylinder.

Very good points.

I use a Mityvac too. The only gripe was that the small bottle tends to fall over, so I made a stand for it using a steel plate base and a piece of tube welded on which the bottle sits in, a slot down the side of the tube lets you see how much fluid is in there.
I tend to work on the little-and-often principle of brake fluid maintenance. I don't worry too much about purging the whole system necessarily, just empty the reservoir using the Mityvac, refill immediately, then do a bit of bleeding at each corner (top up as required). If you do it fairly regularly (year or two) the chances that any of the fluid stays in the system very long is minimal.

I once helped a neighbour do his ancient VW Polo, and he couldn't get it to bleed. I fitted the Mityvac and couldn't get anything more than a few drops out. Ended up having to push on the brake pedal to shift the stuff, which came out looking like cafe-latte. I left him to finish the job, didn't want anything more to do with it thanks, goodness knows what state the seals and pistons were in.

[culzean]

....... The reason I like the MityVac is that the fairly small reservoir to hold extracted fluid is a bit smaller than the volume of the master cylinder reservoir,  so as the Mityvac bottle starts to get full it is a warning to stop sucking, close off the bleed nipple and top up the master cylinder.

Very good points.

I use a Mityvac too. The only gripe was that the small bottle tends to fall over, so I made a stand for it using a steel plate base and a piece of tube welded on which the bottle sits in, a slot down the side of the tube lets you see how much fluid is in there.
I tend to work on the little-and-often principle of brake fluid maintenance. I don't worry too much about purging the whole system necessarily, just empty the reservoir using the Mityvac, refill immediately, then do a bit of bleeding at each corner (top up as required). If you do it fairly regularly (year or two) the chances that any of the fluid stays in the system very long is minimal.

I once helped a neighbour do his ancient VW Polo, and he couldn't get it to bleed. I fitted the Mityvac and couldn't get anything more than a few drops out. Ended up having to push on the brake pedal to shift the stuff, which came out looking like cafe-latte. I left him to finish the job, didn't want anything more to do with it thanks, goodness knows what state the seals and pistons were in.

I do the same pretty much - a little and often       I also use that system with engine coolant - rather than struggling to get every last drop out and risking airlocks in the system or stripping threads on engine block plugs I will drain the radiator only, top system up with fresh 50/50 coolant and then leave it a few weeks and do the same. Quite painless to do it that way. Another way with modern long life coolants is to just change half every 5 years.  For the Mityvac bottle I just drilled a hole in a block of wood ( a bit of 3" fence post ) with a holesaw.