Author Topic: Slam Panel  (Read 696 times)

OttoF

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Slam Panel
« on: April 03, 2025, 12:13:02 AM »
Hi.

First post. Apologies if there's anything already out there on this question, but my search returned virtually nothing.

My problem is that the slam panel is completely rusted out, and there's no good metal left to weld on to, at least without major works.

I should say, the slam panel is the metal frame that surrounds the front radiator, top, bottom, and both sides. Just thought I would add this in case I'm not using a commonly recognised part name.

I've found a replacement (brand new, genuine Honda), part number is 60400-SAA-G42ZZ... unless I'm mistaken. Reasonably priced, and makes more sense than trying to repair with welding alone.

My question is simple, can anyone tell me if the original factory part was bolted or welded on to its surroundings?

I've seen a couple of engine swap videos, and in each case, the engine is either lifted or dropped with the front of the car (including the slam panel) left in place. It might suggest that it's welded in place, but I cannot be sure.

I can't find any other information that would tell me exactly what I need to know, and I don't have access to anything official in terms of accident repair manuals or otherwise.

Help is much appreciated. I'll not be doing the repair myself, or even buying the part until I can figure out what's involved.

I've added a photo of the corrosion, taken from underneath the engine, looking towards the front. It's quite poorly as you can see.

Lord Voltermore

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Re: Slam Panel
« Reply #1 on: April 11, 2025, 11:43:52 AM »
Sorry I cant answer your basic question , is the panel bolted or  welded in place.

But by googling just the part number  I found many sources for the part.  One is a Russian site. I am not suggesting you buy from Russia ,if you even can  , but the photo shows the part still installed in some major chassis rails.  Compare this with the other  photo of just the panel , on a Bulgarian site  (It costs  193 lv -about £86 )  From this It looks like the panel may be spot welded in place to the side chassis rails,  but I  might be wrong. 
https://izap24.by/tovar/10112525_panel-perednyaya-honda-jazz-2002-2008-60400saag42zz.html

https://www.automega.bg/vehicles/honda-honda-jazz-2001-2008-01-08-front-panel-2005-049900225/

Incidentally the  panel is a lot cheaper in Bulgaria.  Several sites, including in the uk , sell a pattern version  made by Dietrichs for about  half the price of a genuine Honda one.  (Despite the Germanic name it may be made in China)

I have done similar jobs on rusty classic cars and  even bolts are not always straightforward . They can seize and snap,requiring drilling out, re tapping  etc  .Or  rip out captive threads which are themselves welded onto thin and possibly rusty  panel work  which then requires welded repairs anyway.  But you might be lucky.

   There does seem to be a lot of work involved  dismantling the front end, radiators etc, possibly also  having to regas aircon systems etc. If you can do this work, but not any welding or similar snags that may arise maybe  investigate the availability and cost of  bringing in a mobile welder to do only the minimum of work you are unable to do for yourself.   Its possible that despite the amount of welding required in situ  it may work out cheaper overall than the amount of dismantling required to replace the panel.  If the main problem  is just that fracture on your photo  it might even be possible to drill holes and bolt a fabricated bridging plate across  . It depends on the overall condition, and whether it is structural and might fail the MOT.

Sorry to say but I would also check for any other rust and other repairs that  might be looming soon. 

If all else fails  what are your plans for a holiday this year ?   ;D   Bulgaria (and Romania) have a thriving industry in importing crash damaged cars,with many skilled repairers  at labour rates a  fraction of what it is in the UK.    If you are able to organise it in advance, Maybe with the  help of someone on a forum of local British Expats, you could maybe  drive to Bulgaria or Romania  , and Holiday there, (or Bus down to Greece)   while the car is being repaired.   Hotels and dining  can be very cheap even in Greece if you go where the  locals chose. . Just an Idea  ;D    Or if it proves  necessary buy (or borrow/hire) a mig welder and learn to weld.  You can reproduce spot welding by plug welding.  You could get some of your money back by selling it again afterwards.
 
« Last Edit: April 12, 2025, 12:07:02 PM by Lord Voltermore »
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OttoF

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Re: Slam Panel
« Reply #2 on: September 19, 2025, 01:05:14 PM »
Thanks. I can confirm that the slam panel is welded in place, so I went another route to resolve the issue and keep the car roadworthy.

I cut out the bad metal and welded in 4mm strap steel. Technically speaking, the car is now a 'modified' example. The important thing is, it's no longer an MOT advisory/fail.

The new steel will still deform as expected in a crash, so it satisfies safety concerns, and is invariably better than the front of the car turning to orange dust should it have a front-end shunt.

If anyone reads this and is facing a similar issue, and if you don't want to absorb the full cost of replacing the entire slam panel, the above option is a cost-effective option, especially if you can weld.

There were a few other small areas where corrosion had set-in (boot floor and top mount), so these were done at the same time to make the whole project worth doing.

The repair I carried out should last the lifetime if the car, so it's worth doing in my opinion. All I would add here is to ensure that you inform your insurer of the modification. If you didn't, and you made a claim, it could be problematic for you.

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