A first

[Marmoset]

I picked up my car after a service yesterday to find it was showing the full 10.  What I found odd was that the ICE was running (and continued to run when I started driving).

Aircon switched on maybe ??

Of course, that would explain it!  I rarely use the aircon and I had just had it serviced. I'd had to fiddle with the buttons to get it back to how I usually have it set up.

[Tombola]

I picked up my car after a service yesterday to find it was showing the full 10.  What I found odd was that the ICE was running (and continued to run when I started driving).

Aircon switched on maybe ??

Of course, that would explain it!  I rarely use the aircon and I had just had it serviced. I'd had to fiddle with the buttons to get it back to how I usually have it set up.

I use the Aircon all the time summer and winter which would probably be the reason I have not scored a perfect 10 bars on the battery meter, sitting in the carpark, car turned on with no aircon or fans on allowed the traction battery to fully charge 

[FMIB]

I picked up my car after a service yesterday to find it was showing the full 10.  What I found odd was that the ICE was running (and continued to run when I started driving).

Aircon switched on maybe ??

Of course, that would explain it!  I rarely use the aircon and I had just had it serviced. I'd had to fiddle with the buttons to get it back to how I usually have it set up.

Why would you not use the aircon? Modern cars are designed for it to run continually whilst driving and is your number one weapon for eliminating misting windows.

[Tombola]

I picked up my car after a service yesterday to find it was showing the full 10.  What I found odd was that the ICE was running (and continued to run when I started driving).

Aircon switched on maybe ??

Of course, that would explain it!  I rarely use the aircon and I had just had it serviced. I'd had to fiddle with the buttons to get it back to how I usually have it set up.

Why would you not use the aircon? Modern cars are designed for it to run continually whilst driving and is your number one weapon for eliminating misting windows.

And keeping the internal seals lubricated eliminating future problems, the alleged fuel saving is minimal, but the savings could potentially be wiped out with aircon problems, I run mine all the time i'm driving

[Marmoset]

Oh, I do use it from time to time but - probably because high temperatures suit me better than cold ones - I find it's not necessary for most of the time.  A quick blow of the front fan is nearly always enough to get rid of misting windows. And it seems more economical that way.

[Jazzik]

I use the air conditioning ("auto") all year round.
In winter, it dries and purifies the air, preventing windows from fogging up. At an outside temperature lower than approximately 4°C the compressor will not function. This is an automatic protection to prevent the condenser from freezing.

The reliability of the air conditioning is higher with regular use. The rubber seals in the system then remain flexible because they are lubricated. This allows them to optimally fulfill their sealing task. If the air conditioning is left off for too long, the seals can dry out and leak. The air conditioning system then quickly loses coolant, which reduces or even stops operation.
So also use the air conditioning in winter!

[Tombola]

Oh, I do use it from time to time but - probably because high temperatures suit me better than cold ones - I find it's not necessary for most of the time.  A quick blow of the front fan is nearly always enough to get rid of misting windows. And it seems more economical that way.

With respect, you don't need to endure cold temps with aircon just adjust the temp to suit your needs, as the saying goes, "use it or lose it" 

[FMIB]

Nothing to do with enduring cold temperatures. Air-con set to on and then press auto and adjust the temperature dial to your comfort level, low or high temperatures.
As others have pointed out, using it occasionally can lead to problems over time. Build up of bacteria on the heat exchanger/condenser is just another one which leads to odour, which eventually leads to needing a system clean.
Of course it's your choice to use occasionally, a few posters just giving some reasons why it can be beneficial to leave it running all the time.

[Bristol_Crosstar]

Living in the Mendips I get 10 regularly going down long hills and have to switch the regen off

[tfw7]

I regularly see 10, generally after a gentle 55mph pootle down twisty B roads, one I use every Wednesday on a round trip of 24 miles. B mode, lots of regen around the bends, soon gets it upto 10... and then quite a bit of distance running in leccy mode.

yeah I agree with this, I get to 10 bars on a 30-40 sec downhill stretch in B every day

[Colstarr]

Not sure if anything  as been  posted  on the  forum before  about  being  able to charge that hybrid  battery.  But for new owners  it's  handy to know if you press that accelerator  down to the floor while in parked (P)  and switched on , the engine  will cut in after about 15 to 20 seconds, you can then run the engine  while parked and keeping  your foot down on the accelerator  to charge the hybrid  battery  up to the 10 bar  maximum or whatever  charge you require ( This normally  only takes a few minutes). When the battery  reaches   the 10 bar point the engine will automatically  cut out. This may come in handy if you are  not using  the car for a few days and want to leave the hybrid battery  with a full charge. I've  found this  helps keeps  the 12 volt  battery  fully charged at  around  14.4v at start up. Hope this is useful  to owners.

[5thcivic]

Actually it does not prolong the life of the cells to leave them at full charge particularly if not using them for a while, actually you are accelerating battery wear at 100% charge. The cells are most efficient and last longest with the software rotation between around 30 to 80% charge. That is why the software will tend to leave the cells at 3 or 4 bars when you reach home and park in the garage.

[Tombola]

Actually it does not prolong the life of the cells to leave them at full charge particularly if not using them for a while, actually you are accelerating battery wear at 100% charge. The cells are most efficient and last longest with the software rotation between around 30 to 80% charge. That is why the software will tend to leave the cells at 3 or 4 bars when you reach home and park in the garage.

You are right, but I would imagine that even at 10 bars which we would consider to be 100% charged it will in fact be 80%   

[Colstarr]

You are probably  correct  in stating  the battery  will only reach 80% charge .
I doubt  Honda would allow  the battery to reach the full  100% charge  or  allow it to completely  discharge . I'm  almost certain  there must be some sort of software built into the system to cycle the battery during it's lifetime?.. I have yet to see the battery  drop below the last two bars.  Again I doubt the software  would allow this to happen.
 90% of the time when I park the car in the garage,  the battery  shows  8  to 10 bars   on the display due  to  the  final down  hill  decent  to my home.
Throughout the summer rarely  did
the car  ever start up  with the engine  running. Unless  I turned on the demister.



Battery  technology  is moving so fast now. The Honda Jazz e-hev  at almost 5 years old is starting to  look and feel  a bit dated.

 I wonder if there will ever be  a mk5 hybrid  jazz?.

[Hicardo]

Yep I too get to 10 all the time on the traction battery charge indicator because its hilly where I live, so on the downhills it usually gets to between 7 and 10, depending on what it started off with.