Is it worth replacing valve seals on a jazz with 200K kms?

[Jocko]

Okay. back in the day "Stop Leak", Wynn's and Bar's, was for radiators. Engine Stop Leak is new to me. Sorry.

[sparky Paul]

Sorry

No need 

Not sure if it used to be called something else when it first came out, the name isn't familiar to me either... or perhaps I'm just getting old and my memory is going. I had some success with it in conveyor gearboxes, many years ago.

[zedzded]

What did you find difficult with the rope method? Is it hard to fill the whole cylinder space? If i need to remove the cam, is there anything I need to worry other than bolts sequency and torque? Please let me know if have any "how to".

I've read somewhere that sometimes you have to turn the crank backwards in order to release the rope and that this can be risky as it might mess up the timing. I wonder if this also applies for chain drive camshafts.

I don't think you will have to remove the cam on the Honda, I did because the cam acted directly on the valve buckets - the Honda has followers which can be removed en bloc. Because of that, timing was never an issue as the belt was off anyway. However, as all the plugs are out anyway, I can't see it being an issue as there is little resistance with no compression.

You don't have to fill the pot with the (soft) rope, just enough to hold the valve when you wind the piston back up. It has to be quite tightly held, the valve springs are quite strong - and that's what makes it fiddly. You need just enough rope to get the piston near the top of the stroke to get enough resistance, otherwise you will push the piston back down. You then have to push down on each valve spring with a suitable tool whlst you pick out the collet halves with a magnet tool. Putting them back is even more fiddly, good lighting and an assistant is useful.

When I did mine (not Honda), they were down a hole once the buckets were removed, and I had to fabricate a tool to push down on the springs. It should be easier on the Jazz.

It is fiddly, and very time consuming, but you probably won't have to disturb the timing as I did. You have weigh that against the amount of oil you are adding, and maybe trying some of the Wynn's Stop Leak or similar, to put it on a year or two. The Wynn's stuff is a good diagnostic too, it should improve the issue if is stem seals.

Thanks for sharing your experience, I'll try using some stop leak stuff.
cheers

[zedzded]

Use a 10W 30 Semi Synthetic if you are in Australia.

We had an 8 plug Jazz (03 model) with near 300,000km and used Castrol Magnatec 10W 30, never burned anything. We are in NZ.

Have you checked your airbox for pooled oil?

Ow! that's a lot of kms! I've always used Helix HX7 10W40 since I bought the car, except a change I did an year ago, when I used a 10w30. Just after, it started puffing on start, probably a coincidence though as I changed back to the HX7 but the symptoms remains.

Oh yeah, the airbox is clean. I've recently changed the filter.

[JRHPNG]

Use a 10W 30 Semi Synthetic if you are in Australia.

We had an 8 plug Jazz (03 model) with near 300,000km and used Castrol Magnatec 10W 30, never burned anything. We are in NZ.

Have you checked your airbox for pooled oil?

Ow! that's a lot of kms!

Ha ha, not really, our 2009 Honda Jazz Sport has just ticked over 309,000. Just came back from a 5 day 2000km plus trip, 4 up with all our cargo - Never missed a beat

[degzi]

Is it worth using something like forte seal conditioner now and again in general use then to prevent seal problems.

I'm on 127,000 miles, no problems yet but I'd use forte stuff if it's recommended.

[sparky Paul]

Is it worth using something like forte seal conditioner now and again in general use then to prevent seal problems.

I'm on 127,000 miles, no problems yet but I'd use forte stuff if it's recommended.

I don't think I would. It softens the rubber, but it also swells it a bit too - and this might increase the wear. In my experience, it only gives you a temporary reprieve to any oil loss problems.