Water in spare wheel well

[chrisc]

You ease the roof rails off towards the back.  There are slots in the rail.  Have a look at the pictures in the link that jimr (post # 3) supplied.  These make it pretty obvious how they are secured.  When replacing them, you need to tap them with a rubber mallet to fasten them.

[guest1885]

Thanks Chris

I have located on the web a possible removal proceedure for the  roof trim do the pics look about right

Roof Molding Replacement
1. Apply protective tape to the body (A). Using a flat-tip screwdriver wrapped with protective tape (B), pry up on the roof molding (C). Take care not to scratch the body.

 

See Attached Pic Honda Trim1


2. Pull up and slide the roof molding to release the front bracket (D) from the pin (E).

 
See attached pic Honda Trim 1


3. Pull up the front portion of roof molding.

 See attached pic Honda Trim 2



4. Pull up and release the rear bracket (A) from the pin (B), then remove the roof molding (C).

 
See attached pic Honda Trim 3




5. Install the molding in the reverse order of removal, and note these items:

See Attached pic  Honda trim 4


Take care not to damage the windshield molding.

Make sure the roof molding is installed securely.

 







 



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[chrisc]

Oh, so you prise it up and it pops out.  Easier than I thought.  Picture no 1 gives you the clearest idea.  It is only plastic, so you should not have to apply that much force.  Make sure the edges of the screwdriver are not sharp.  It looks like you prise it up about 6 inches from the PIN

Please let us know what you discovered after removing the trim.  I am quite sure other Jazz owners might have the same problem.

[guest1885]

Will do Chris

I am hoping to have a look in the next week or so weather allowing.

Brapford

[guest3906]

Moon

Thanks for your reply, when you mention the plastic upholstery do you mean the rubber roof strips?or the membranes that fit in the doors?

I know that leaks in the foot wells can be as a result of the sealant going on the door membranes, is this what you are referring to when you mention replacing the plastic with aluminum tape? I know someone put aluminum tape behind the door membranes and used the tape to divert the water flow in the doors back into the channel for leaks in the rear seat foot wells?

I do have leaks in the foot Wells but I also have a leak in the rear boot and I know that cracks under the rubber roof rails can cause this particular leak into the rear wheel well - any advice is great fully received.

yes its that plastic membrane

[guest1232]

You only need to prise up the back of the trims, no need to touch the front. You will see a line of sealant with microscopic cracks in it's surface, just enough for water to 'capilliary' through.

Clean it with white spirit, mask the sides, gun the Sikaflex in, smooth with soapy finger, remove tape, paint it after an hour or two and walk away.

I didn't bother to paint mine as you could only see it if you really looked for it.

[guest1885]

Paul

Thanks for your reply, so it does not matter if you take the roof rail up from the back 1st as opposed to the front?

Does the roof rail come up / go down easily?

Did you do both sides of the roof As I have heard that you only need to do the right hand side as the water drains in a different direction on the left (By right I mean the drivers side of the car).

Did you also did  you seal the end of the roof rails down into the rear of the hood in the channels if you did did you leave the rear hood open for a couple of hours, I know it sounds stupid but Sikaflex 221 is also classed as an adhesive I don't want to gun the rear near the hood think its gone off close the hood an end up sticking the thing

brapford

[guest1232]

It's just a keyhole shaped bracket, so when it's in position and tensioned it springs against and grips the pin, a bit like a picture frame bracket if you know what I mean.

I sealed both sides as it's really easy once you actually pop the strip off.

[guest1885]

 I finally got round to doing this - removed the rubber roof strips and there were what appeared to be a few microscopic cracks in the sealant on the drivers side of the roof rail.

I sealed the last 20CM or so of the roof rails to the rear on both sides with Sikaflex 221.

Additionally on the right (Drivers side of the car) there was a clear crack in the sealant coming down the rear of the boot from the room trim near near to what I believe are the tail gate gas ram bracket bolt holes.

I did not remove the gas ram bracket bolt holes but filled around the bolt housing, and both of the seams heading down to the rubber seal around the boot.

Additionally i have filled a small gap between the lights and the body housing around the top of the rear cluster of the lights on both sides.

I have left if for a few days and tried it today with a watering can and the water is still coming into the rear boot on the passenger side in exactly the same place as posted by someone suffering a similar problem on another site (see link to image below)

http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/179/jazzleakna4.jpg/

I'm tempted to try and seal the place that the water is coming in through the boot bit am worrying that this might lead to a greater collection of water somewhere else  in the bodywork.

Has Anyone got any ideas - clearly i must have missed something, all i can think to do is either extend sealing along  the roof strips or drive around with a towel in the boot