Jazz battery charging

[n.jazz]

HI , so as a very low mileage driver, the jazz has not been out more than once every 2 week and even then its for 2 short  town runs (out and back, stop inbetween). Yesterday instead of starting it just gushes machine gun like clicks and the dash lights were flashing at the same pace. Online stories pointed to the battery or a loose connection and today when the breakdown guy  hooked his portable power pack to the battery it started like a dream. I quickly bought a CTEK MXS 5.0 and has  been charging for 2 hours with 4 amber lights on so far out of the eight charger indicators. I am running the charger on the normal  'CAR' mode as opposed to the other 'CAR AGM' mode, as I think the Jazz 3rd generation has EFB type battery rather than AGM.  So The questions I have are;

 1) Was it OK to have connected the crocodile clips directly to the battery points without unbolting and lifting off the terminal connectos first?  AND

2) should the black Crocodile clip been connected to a metal chassis point instead of direct to the negative battery terminal? AND

3) Is the 'CAR' mode up to 14.4V 5A the correct settting on this charger for the JAZZ compared to the 'CAR AGM' mode with  up to14.7V , 5A ?

Thank you for taking the time to read.

[Johncb500]

Not certain the difference between normal lead acid and AGM as far as charging is concerned,

No issues at all with connected to the terminals on the battery posts,

Might be worth checking for corrosion between the posts and terminals clamps,

Leave it on charge until you have all greens



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[TnTkr]

When using the charger the positive cable should be connected to the battery post but negative cable must be connected on the part after the battery monitoring sensor. This is well instructed in manual.

Your Jazz doesn't have an AGM battery, so you should use normal charging mode.

[trebor1652]

I also think you should change your route and try doing 10 miles each way, it's better for the engine, gets properly warm and will no doubt do your battery a power of good. Run the air con as well, leaving it on will do no harm, in fact it will help keep the system seals lubricated.

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[n.jazz]

When using the charger the positive cable should be connected to the battery post but negative cable must be connected on the part after the battery monitoring sensor. This is well instructed in manual.

Your Jazz doesn't have an AGM battery, so you should use normal charging mode.

Thank you TnTkr , Can you please explain where you mean by connecting the negative cable to the 'part after the battery monitoring sensor' ?

[TnTkr]

I tried to take a picture, but the file size is too big for the forum limit.

It is the L-shaped metal part on the engine side of the small black box next to the battery post. Black earthing cable is crimped to that part.

Please see picture attached to post #8 of this thread: https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=17178.msg146589#msg146589

[n.jazz]

Thanks againTnTkr,
 I see the photo now, I just moved the negative clip to the green 'Si' part from the Red 'No' part, So the Battery Monitoring Sensing has lost track of the 4 hour charging so far but at least it should start to register charge from now on. Anyway I always disable the Stop/Start function , as two qualified mechanics told me it uses  battery charge and in the long run shortens the life of the starter and battery , Wear and tear is logical  to expect with any  repeating mechanical/electical procedure.

[Kremmen]

On my 9G Civic and my  MK4 Jazz I connected my CTEK to the battery posts using the lead with rings and never had any issues (which is against the advice)

My smaller CTEK 3.6 would often take about 8 hrs to go green after 2 weeks of non use

My Civic still had the original battery after 9 1/2 years and only 10k on the clock, but my monthly journey was a 60 mile round trip with a CTEK in the middle

[ColinB]

Anyway I always disable the Stop/Start function , as two qualified mechanics told me it uses  battery charge and in the long run shortens the life of the starter and battery , Wear and tear is logical  to expect with any  repeating mechanical/electical procedure.

This is an old wives tale, and your "qualified mechanics" should be ashamed of themselves. Modern cars are designed for stop-start, and all the appropriate components are designed accordingly. You trust Honda's engineers with your life by driving their product around, so why don't you trust them to get this right? Honda's system is particularly fussy and won't stop the engine if it detects any issues. My own battery lasted 10 years before needing replacement, and no other component has yet failed because of the S-S. If you hadn't turned the system off, you would have got early warning of battery failure because the engine wouldn't have stopped and you'd get a low-battery warning on the display.
An independent view is here(other similar sources are available):
https://www.rac.co.uk/drive/advice/emissions/stop-start-engines-common-myths-busted/

[TnTkr]

That article did not say that the stop/start would not reduce the life of a battery or starter. Because it does.

It reduces fuel consumption and pollution, but it has its price, which comes to us to pay.

[ColinB]

That article did not say that the stop/start would not reduce the life of a battery or starter. Because it does.

Well, the RAC article does say:
"While most engine parts such as your starter motor, ring gear, cambelt, and flywheel have to work more frequently than a vehicle without stop-start, manufacturers ensure longevity and ability to operate more frequently through higher manufacturing specs."
And as far as the battery life is concerned, as I said my first battery lasted 10 years of stop-start usage. That's well above the normal expected battery life.

However, I like to keep an open mind, so if there's an authoritative source that can provide evidence of engine or battery damage caused by a S-S system, let's see it.