Honda Jazz rust issues. Failed MOT.

[brandonMatt]

Repair immediately (major defects):
Nearside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded (1.1.11 (c))
Offside Rear Brake pipe excessively corroded both rear brake line (1.1.11 (c))
Rear Tyre(s) with different structures are fitted across the same axle (5.2.3 (c))
Nearside Rear Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced outer seal (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Offside Rear Vehicle structure corroded to the extent that the rigidity of the assembly is significantly reduced outer seal (6.1.1 (c) (i))
Offside Front Suspension locking device missing lower arm ball joint split pin missing (5.3.6 (b))
Offside Rear Parking (secondary brake) on a single line braking system has inadequate effort at a wheel (1.3.1 (a) (i))
Monitor and repair if necessary (advisories):
Nearside Front Brake pipe corroded, covered in grease or other material (1.1.11 (c))
Nearside Front Lower Gearbox mounting defective
Offside Front Macpherson strut pin or bush worn but not resulting in excessive movement top mount (5.3.4 (a) (i))
Nearside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Offside Rear Tyre slightly damaged/cracking or perishing (5.2.3 (d) (ii))
Nearside Front Headlamp has a product on the lens but not seriously reducing light output (4.1.4 (b))
Offside Front Headlamp has a product on the lens but not seriously reducing light output (4.1.4 (b))



So yea, pretty bad. 
The thing is it is a nice little run around lol. I dont wanna scrap it because i'd prob get like £200.  Could try selling it  for £400.. maybe but still be nice to keep it..
So, yea just curious what everyone else thinks.  It has def been touched up before and i'm not capable of welding that.  The other stuff I am not too concerned about but I dont wanna spend £800 welding it just for it to go again.

[CRC]

What year is the car?

Reason I ask is that I've seen rust in this area prove terminal for models around the 06/07 period, but our 2003 model shows no sign of rust in those areas .... I think the earliest ones were built in Japan, but think production possibly moved elsewhere later on?

[Mr Onion]

IMHO it'll cost far more than its market value to repair (and I wouldn't want to drive with holes in the sill like that, let alone all the other issues listed)

Cut your losses and sell/scrap it (or maybe break it for parts yourself if you don't mind the hassle)

[2robbie2]

I can well understand why you may choose to scrap it, but would still nonetheless consider it a real shame given that all of the problems referred to seem very simple and easily fixable (although please bear in mind that I am not a mechanic).

Clearly the cost of repair would exceed its market value. However, that is not the only financial consideration for many people. For example, the cost of repairing bodywork issues is likely to be considerably smaller than purchasing another used car that is much younger, but nevertheless subject to potentially even more problems (even if there are no rust issues on a newer car, you may well be faced with more expensive problems to fix given the use of more complex electronics etc.). It is also worth bearing in mind that buying a newer car would also bring with it loss of value from depreciation and interest costs from loans/loss of interest from savings.

For me at least, before deciding whether to scrap an old car, I would assess whether the car would be safe following repairs and how many other issues I would be likely to face on an ongoing basis as it may well be considerably cheaper to just carry on making simple annual repairs than purchasing a much newer one. For example, if you were to carry out the bodywork repairs now, you might find that this sorts the issue for another 2, 3 or even 4+ years. If on the other hand, you think you will face the same extensive bodywork repairs every year and the engine was also on its last legs, then I would certainly scrap it. In other words, if it was just a one-off rust/bodywork issue that could be safely fixed and I didn't care what it looked like, then I would continue to repair it.

My first car was a Mark II Ford Fiesta - which was brilliant to have as a student as it was simple and easy to fix. Yes, it sometimes cost me £200 or £300 to get it through an MOT (back in the late 90s), but it was still bloody cheap motoring (there was always a bit of welding to do to the underside, but other than that it caused me virtually no problems mechanically).

I would have loved to have a car like yours when I was a student/starting out in life as it represents reliable and cheap motoring with simple easy fixes. In fact, that also applies when I think of some of the problems, costs and stress some of the new 'premium' brand cars have brought me later in life! 

[Lord Voltermore]

Apart from the welding it also needs repairs to the handbrake and other brake lines etc , and ideally 4 new tyres.  For that sort of investment I would want to be sure ,from expert inspection , that the car is fundamentally  mechanically and structurally sound and likely to pass 2 -3 more MOT's  ,or can be sold with a clear conscience.     Otherwise ,although a sad decision I would cut my losses and scrap it.

IMO you would be very lucky to get £400 for it with no MOT due to rust.   You might get near that  by breaking it yourself, selling as many good parts as possible and scrapping the rest.   Or buying a donor car and making one good car out of two.