All brake pads wearing thin.

[Johncb500]

All those seem good

I have checked a comparison chart and the figures seem ok,

When you do the rear,

You need to screw in the pistons,

That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do

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[Kremmen]

https://www.unitconverters.net/energy/nm-to-ft-lb.htm

[BlueMonday]

When you do the rear,

You need to screw in the pistons,

That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do

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I did use a piston retraction tool to push the pistons in, is that what you mean by screw the pistons in?
I was going to ask about the handbrake. For the front I put it in park and used the handbrake but I think for changing the rear pads I need to put it in park and not use the handbrake, is that correct?

[BlueMonday]

https://www.unitconverters.net/energy/nm-to-ft-lb.htm

Thank-you, very helpful.
I wonder why my torque wrench does not have NM. Is it Japanese cars that use NM and not European cars?

[TnTkr]

Probably your torque wrench is from US or it is very old. Both European and Japanese manufacturers use metric units nowadays. US still sticks pounds and feet.

[Lord Voltermore]

When you do the rear,

You need to screw in the pistons,

That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do

Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

I did use a piston retraction tool to push the pistons in, is that what you mean by screw the pistons in?
I was going to ask about the handbrake. For the front I put it in park and used the handbrake but I think for changing the rear pads I need to put it in park and not use the handbrake, is that correct?

They need a rewind tool something like this  -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392898691985?

Older pistons  were simply pushed into their bores  ,which may have needed a tool to exert extra pushing force.     If you have tried pushing when you should rewind  it wont have worked.

Sorry my practical knowledge of changing pads is too out of date to answer your second question but it does sound logical. Plus wedging the other wheels, and other safety precautions  working around a raised car. 

[BlueMonday]

When you do the rear,

You need to screw in the pistons,

That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do

Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk

I did use a piston retraction tool to push the pistons in, is that what you mean by screw the pistons in?
I was going to ask about the handbrake. For the front I put it in park and used the handbrake but I think for changing the rear pads I need to put it in park and not use the handbrake, is that correct?

They need a rewind tool something like this  -

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392898691985?

Older pistons  were simply pushed into their bores  ,which may have needed a tool to exert extra pushing force.     If you have tried pushing when you should rewind  it wont have worked.

Sorry my practical knowledge of changing pads is too out of date to answer your second question but it does sound logical. Plus wedging the other wheels, and other safety precautions  working around a raised car. 

Thank-you. That tool is very similar to the one I used for the front brakes, works great.
I will try to find youtube videos specifically for the Honda Jazz rear brakes regarding the handbrake.

[BlueMonday]

I have been trying to find a YT video where it shows the rear pads being replaced and what to do with the handbrake cable, no luck.

Most either do not mention it or just replace the pads without doing anything with the hand brake cable.

I know the hand brake need to be in to off position when changing the rear pads.

[Johncb500]

Don't worry about the handbrake cable

I know it makes it awkward, but screw in the pistons,

Put it all back together,


Most important

Press the foot brake as many times as needed till you get a firm feel,

Operate the handbrake till that firms up,

When everything is together, go for a GENTLE drive, with many brake applications, start getting the pads bedding in


Use the brake often, but don't over heat



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