Advice! How to slow down wheel arch rusting

[Antirust?]

I’ve recently bought a 2015 jazz, automatic with 60,000 miles on the clock. It’s been serviced every year and I’m delighted with it.

 I’ve done some reading and read that the rust is its main issue. I’ve had a look at some of the photos of the rot at the wheel arches and I can see that it’s the way mine will go -I’ll add the snaps in.

 I’m based in Scotland so it’s likely to be more of an issue for me with salt etc.  Luckily overall the rust on the body is minimal. Where it’s worst is in these wheel arch zones.

I’ve been powerhosing in there to try and clear all the muck off but I’m beginning to think a lot of it is rust.
 
I’ve bought some dynax s50 to treat in behind the liners. I’m just wondering what rust converter you would use?

 I’m reluctant to put anything really heavy on following this and will just stick with Lanoguard etc for the rest of the body.

My other query is has anyone taken the liners out and how straight forward is this? I am worried that it’s lurking beneath to there
I’m not very handy if I’m honest with you and don’t have a garage I live in an apartment. I was half thinking of getting a garage to take them out and then I could treat it and then get a garage to put them back in.

Any info would be really appreciated as I’m hoping to sort it sometime over the next 8 weeks.

[trebor1652]

I used a product called kurrust.
I think that's how it was spelt.
Worked very well for me.
Good luck with your preventative maintenance.
Of course you will have to over paint perhaps with a zinc rich primer topped with a coat of underseal.

Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[Keekster71]

I live in Scotland too, so I feel your pain.  I bought a Japanese Fit.  There was a few small areas of surface rust.  I cleaned them back with a finger sander and painted them with two part epoxy aerosol, that I bought off ebay.  You press a button on the bottom of the can and shake it.  Its a one shot deal, as it sets fast in the can.  So I cleaned up all the areas first.  Then once dry I sprayed Lanolin over the underneath.  I bought it in pure form and thinned it 50/50 with the thinners than came with it.  Note you need to heat it up first using boiled water in a kettle.   I sprayed the underneath with a plant sprayer and a pump up bottle for brake cleaner.  I did it this way because Lanoguard is expensive and very thin.  I removed those little plastic guards first, by pulling out the push plug.  They end to snap so buy some new ones first.  I bought cheap ones off ebay, that come in mulitiple sizes.  Spray the whole rear arches, particularly around the filler lap and filler neck.  They always rust there.  I needed the plant sprayer to get right round the filler neck.  I made a right mess but it was totally worth the effort.  After the winter the underneath was looking in good shape.  If there are any areas where the coating has come off I give it another coat, but I find with the lanolin it stays soft so doesn't chip at all.  But the rear arches do get a bit washed off over time. 
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/underbody-and-cavity-waxes/corrolan-sustainable-rust-proofing/

[Antirust?]

Thanks for all of this advice.
I’m going to try and see about taking the archliners out and see how I go.

The finger sanding is great idea. I’ve just really powerhosed out the petrol section and the sills. It’s not as bad as I thought it doesn’t look deep. And no sign of anything near the fuel cap. Bleeding hell the mud really was totally caked on in there.

[Keekster71]

Aye, it gets packed solid. During the winter when I wash the car, not often enough, I always spray the hose round the filler. After the winter I take off the wheel and clean the whole arch, and use a piece of plastic to get rid of and stubborn muck. The hinge for the petrol flap is really close to the body so the mud always gets trapped. Then I spray around everywhere again. With the plastic guard I only remove the top push clip and fold it down. You will surprised how much salt gets trapped under it. It gets a good spray of underseal before I put the plastic clip back in.

[Antirust?]

So you would take the actual cap off itself??
I’ll see if there’s any YouTube vids!

[Keekster71]

Not sure what you mean by ‘cap’? If you mean the plastic cover at the front of the wheel arch I remove the plastic clip or peg ( don’t know the correct term) and fold it back. There are two lips that hold it in place, but I find I can brush away the salt easily enough with folding it back. Then I skoosh on the under seal and then put it back in place again, with a new push clip if the old one breaks