Not entirely relevant, I apologise.
I have a mk1 Yaris (2000MY), from new, and it has been utterly reliable. It was a Japan built car, before moving assembly to 'yurp. Now at 95k mls, it's had a set of discs/pads around 60k and a couple of sets of rollbar drop links, and I just fitted a new rad (£60) because the original at 20yrs was looking very moth eaten (but not actually leaking). I know the new Yaris has nothing in common with mine, but I'd just say that the Jazz is definitely a step up the model category range.
More relevant, I've had a 2018 Jazz CVT since October, admittedly mileage has been minimal due to you-know-what.
I had the usual tyre warnings, and the stop/start said the battery was too low all the time. Both these were solved. You need a good tyre pressure gauge, reading to better than 0.5psi really (I have a TCL digital reading to 0.1psi), set all pressures when stone cold and make sure the axle has exactly the same pressure both sides. I've had no warnings since doing this. If I need to re-do the tyre pressures I just reset the warning system.
The battery thing was fixed by partly discharging the battery directly from the terminals (i.e. NOT through the charge monitor) using a spare 12v lamp, I drained around 8Ah from it. I then charged it fully THROUGH the charge monitoring device so the system considers it has been charged more than discharged, and since then I've had no battery warnings at all from the stop/start.
The CVT take-off from standstill needs a little more pedal movement than I found to be "natural" coming from the Yaris, but since it is drive-by-wire it's very probably just the calibration of the progression to make it driveable etc. If you use enough pedal it will set off quite spiritedly. I suspect the throttle progression also depends on rate of movement, if you ease the pedal down slowly it doesn't respond much, if you "stab" it a bit it seems to respond a bit more eagerly (this is just my impression, I have no technical measurement to justify this suggestion, but it's the kind of thing done when calibrating a DBW throttle). For me it's not an issue, but I can understand why it might annoy some folk, depending what you're used to.
I have a Honda dual clutch bike, and they are rather a marmite device, some (purist?) folk really don't get on with them, but most criticisms are down to expecting it to be able to read their minds whereas if you "use" the system features to do what you want it works extremely well. I love it, some hate them.
Friends have asked my advice about used cars, and I always advise looking at the MOT records on the DVLA website. Find a few models for sale which are 4 or 5yrs old (if the model is based on something that age) and check the MOT history (only need reg number), see what they fail on. Most cars these days have few major issues, MOT fails are usually tyres/wipers/lamps, but sometimes you find common trends (e.g. rear brakes on Minis). I recently looked at Hyundai i10 for someone, and early ones do have a lot of issues (brakes, suspension units leaking, electrical/lights etc). Later ones seem better.