Brake disc callipers

[Jocko]

Your best bet is to stick it into an independent garage and get them to change the brake fluid (it's not oil). If you don't know what you are doing a lot can go wrong. If you get air into the ABS unit, it is an expensive dealer fix.

[sparky Paul]

I certainly wouldn't be doing it in this weather, but to be honest, an independent garage should only charge around £30 all in - it hardly seems worth getting your hands dirty. With the equipment a garage uses, it takes half an hour to do the whole job.

[mj1sjc]

Ohh no, i won't be doing this. I will ask a garage to dovut for me. So, you said it's not oil but fluid. Did you mean brake fluid likr Dot-4 thing? Of I'm changing the brake fluid is 1l can enough of do I need lot more than that? Is any Dot-4 is okay regardless of the brand ?

Thanks a lot!

Your best bet is to stick it into an independent garage and get them to change the brake fluid (it's not oil). If you don't know what you are doing a lot can go wrong. If you get air into the ABS unit, it is an expensive dealer fix.

[sparky Paul]

1L of any DOT4 fluid should be more than enough, you usually use around 600-800ml for a complete replacement. Use one of the proven methods to bleed all the brake pipe lines and whatever you do, don't let the reservoir run dry!

Any garage doing the work will supply the fluid, and DOT4 fluid is DOT4 fluid - it's all the same.

[BrummPopBang]

Jazz rear callipers - what a job! I'm a northerner, so if there is 1mm of good brake pad remaining then why replace it??? 

After my rear discs began rusting and numerous calliper strip and rebuilds, I came to the conclusion that the piston won't extend any further so the rear brakes stop working. That explains why my front tyres wore more quickly than the back.

On (actually) buying new pads, the rear brakes began working again. It was quite a moment when I drove it for the first time with all the brakes working. The car slowed very promptly. Of course I had become used to pressed hard on the pedal. How it passed the MOT I don't know... 

So now I will replace the pads at 2-3mm to be safe.

If the callipers haven't been serviced then they could be sticking as a result of water ingress and rust. Servicing opens a can a worms because its a real challenge to insert the pistons through the dust seal. The piston wants to push the seal into the bore. And any tool used to pull the seal upwards mustn't pierce it. I discovered the bent wire tool in the attachment made from 2.5mm² T&E cable hooks up the seal quite well. It also helps to have a lot of swear words handy like "you f.. b.." etc

Oh and another thing - the rear calliper pistons can seize as a result of rusting around the dust seal. On British callipers I seem to remember that the dust seal is stretched over a male boss on the calliper body. On the Honda it's pushed into a female socket and then the piston goes through that. This allows water ingress plus rusting between the outer surface of the seal and body which pushes the seal inwards and onto the piston and jambs it. On the British design, rust under the seal lifts it up but it does not push the seal onto the piston.

I use Bigg Red for my brake spares

HTH

[BrummPopBang]

The rear discs on my wifes MK2 were badly rusted across all the braking area ...

That pic is just like mine where. Terrible  See my post in this thread with my experience.

I used a diamond surface grinding disc in an angle grinder to clean them up. No, it wasn't as good as a lathe but they soon bedded in and work fine now.

HTH

[sparky Paul]

I used a diamond surface grinding disc in an angle grinder to clean them up. No, it wasn't as good as a lathe but they soon bedded in and work fine now.

Not sure it's worth the effort, they're never 100% after facing up. For the sake of 20 quid a pair, you might as well fit new discs.

[Jocko]

I sandblasted a set of drums once. They worked amazingly after that!

[gtd2000]

I'd take that free brake inspection outcome with a very large bucket of salt.

I can't see the depth of the brake pads but looking at your discs I wouldn't say they look like anything really needs to be replaced, based on the images shown.

It might very well be the case that you need to have a look at the slider pins or get the moving brake parts better lubricated on the disc that is only partially clean of surface rust.

The handbrake on the Jazz is famous for being pretty crap, at least you have the option of the Park function but on the manual it's always good advice to leave it in gear.

I didn't think that calipers were particularly expensive on eBay?

KwikFit and the other chains are generally considered to be places that actively look for work to be done.

[mj1sjc]

Is it okay to replace just one calliper in the rear if the mechanic thinks only one needs changing or has it got to be done on both sides in the same time?

Also,  does it matter the brand of the calipers as the Auto dr seems to have lot of brands on competitive rates. Tia!

[sparky Paul]

I only ever replace one at a time, unless they are both faulty.

[mj1sjc]

Thanks!
What about the brand? Does it matter what brand you're going to buy those callipers?

I only ever replace one at a time, unless they are both faulty.

[UKjim]

Thanks!
What about the brand? Does it matter what brand you're going to buy those callipers?

I only ever replace one at a time, unless they are both faulty.

Nothing wrong with the eBay ones available for around £35-£45 as long as they are the correct callipers for your car.

[BrummPopBang]

This thread made me think about my brakes again; and in particular the post showing the rusty disc.

I refurbished mine in around early 2020. The discs had been rusty until then and and it seems to happen when the callipers stop working properly - maybe due to rusting. And as mentioned before the callipers also seem to stop working when the pads wear to about 1-2mm, or at least that is the case with mine.

So a rusty disc seems to denote a faulty calliper. During a recent check, one of my rear discs has rusted again whereas the other is bright. The rusting has occurred in the last few months. During the refurbishment I fitted new seals and pistons, mainly because the old pistons had traces of surface rust and pitting.

So now the question is 'what is the state of the calliper with the rusty disc?'

I will check in due course and report back.

The last time I had problems with brakes was with a Peugeot 205 with Bendix callipers. I discovered that there was a Girling upgrade; they not only actually stopped the car but didn't give any trouble in the subsequent years of owning the car.

I don't like the design of the Honda callipers. They are designed to fail. It would be nice if a replacement design was available.

[Jocko]

Nothing wrong with the eBay ones available for around £35-£45 as long as they are the correct callipers for your car.

Your local motor factor will probably offer a similar price. We did when I worked for TMS.