Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: guest6479 on September 03, 2017, 02:54:32 PM
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Hi,
I have a idle problem with my Jazz when in drive and stationary.
Please see video
Any ideas of what to look at?
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Hi Benfarrari,
Watched your video and it appears to be a common problem. The next video that came on was this which may be of use; describes your problem.
Hope this helps,
Mike.
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Hi Mike,
Thanks for the video. I will check out all the steps that guy suggests.
The one thing I didn't mention initially is that this only happens when the car is in Drive, It's idle is consistent in Park...
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Ben, is the idle steady when in Neutral as well and if so what is the idle rpm in Neutral and Park?
Vic.
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Ben, is the idle steady when in Neutral as well and if so what is the idle rpm in Neutral and Park?
Vic.
Hi Vic,
Idle is steady in both park and neutral, it's sitting around 750rpm in both.
Putting the car into drive causes a drop to 650rpm, and then intermitently from there does the jumps as show in the video.
Thanks,
Ben
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Maybe the transmission oil needs changed. Sounds like the transmission is slowing the revs down, then the ECU compensates.
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Ben, your model of CVT doesn't have a torque converter clutch, it is a mechanical clutch of some sort, so the oil is unlikely to be the problem in my opinion.
Although I have never heard of it before it is possible that the clutch is binding. When you pull away from standstill is the clutch smooth?
Clutching at straws, is the aircon switched on? When it is that causes a slight rpm fluctuation as the compressor cuts in and out but not usually as much as you are experiencing however that would effect the neutral and park rpm as well.
Vic.
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Hi, I came here to post about pretty much this same problem and found this thread. I'll just maybe expand on the description by explaining my issues. Any help would be great!
I've got a 2002 Honda Fit (JDM version in NZ)
Car was running all fine. Then I had to jumpstart it one day because the battery was just a bit too flat. Right after this the problems started...
When stopped and in D (or S or L), I get the revs doing that dance like in the video. You can also feel the car jerk a bit when the revs jump. This does not happen in N (it idles smoothly) or R or P. If I'm on the brake lightly, you can notice the car want to lurch forward. Also, if coming off the brake and then wanting to go forward, it sometimes seems/feels like the transmission isn't engaged and it won't go forward right away. When the car's moving, it drives fine.
No fault codes are being shown by the ECU yet and no lights on the dash.
Cheers!
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Ben, your model of CVT doesn't have a torque converter clutch, it is a mechanical clutch of some sort, so the oil is unlikely to be the problem in my opinion.
Although I have never heard of it before it is possible that the clutch is binding. When you pull away from standstill is the clutch smooth?
Clutching at straws, is the aircon switched on? When it is that causes a slight rpm fluctuation as the compressor cuts in and out but not usually as much as you are experiencing however that would effect the neutral and park rpm as well.
Vic.
Thanks Vic.
Firstly I should clarify that I've got my foot firmly on the brake when in drive.
The car is sometimes smooth when pulling away, and sometimes a little grabby with a slight rumble like noise. Could this be the wrong CVT fluid problem?! When I bought the car it had had a replacement gearbox fitted, and I've not had the fluid changed since...
Also when the aircon is on and it 'kicks in' the rpm does change - although the intimitent problem occurs with or without the aircon switched on.
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Ben, The CVT is critical regarding its oil. It should only use genuine Honda CVT-F fluid and nothing else. It should be replaced every two years or 25K miles.
I suggest that your next step is to change the gearbox oil for the genuine stuff, possibly a double change so that whatever is in there is flushed out, that will eliminate that possible problem.
Vic.
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Ben, The CVT is critical regarding its oil. It should only use genuine Honda CVT-F fluid and nothing else. It should be replaced every two years or 25K miles.
I suggest that your next step is to change the gearbox oil for the genuine stuff, possibly a double change so that whatever is in there is flushed out, that will eliminate that possible problem.
Vic.
CVT fluid is a fine blend of slipperyness and friction, and is different for each make of CVT box, car makers spend a lot of time getting it right and Vic is correct that you should make sure it is the correct Honda stuff.
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just an update on my similar situation... I tried the idle relearn procedure in the driveway, but must not have done it correctly or long enough as it didn't seem to make a difference. However, I took the car on the motorway, driving a fairly consistent 100km/h for about 20 minutes, and that seemed to have fixed it! Been driving fine for a while now.