Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: dave456 on March 09, 2016, 09:45:58 AM
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hi guys i wondered if any one as tried the new mobil 1 0w/40 oil.in there jazzs i was going to get the oil while it was on offer at £ 35 for 5liters.i just wonderred if its ok for the jazz dave.
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hi guys i wondered if any one as tried the new mobil 1 0w/40 oil.in there jazzs i was going to get the oil while it was on offer at £ 35 for 5liters.i just wonderred if its ok for the jazz dave.
0W40 should be fine to use. According to the service book 0W20, 0W30, 0W40 or 5W30, 5W40 are all suitable.
http://hondakarma.com/guides/recommended-lubricants-and-fluids.79/ (http://hondakarma.com/guides/recommended-lubricants-and-fluids.79/)
One thing.. how many miles has your car done? If its above 100,000miles people tend to stick to 5W as 0W is a bit thin and burns up a little quickly in older engines.
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thank you for that information legend-ary the mileage of my car is 35,000
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thank you for that information legend-ary the mileage of my car is 35,000
0W40 should be just fine
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waste of £? £12 synthetic oil from eurocarparts/carparts4less will do the same job...
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waste of £? £12 synthetic oil from eurocarparts/carparts4less will do the same job...
one thing I have learned in life is never cut costs on engine or gearbox oil - buying 4 litres of oil for under £15 may not be the bargain it seems, and £25 over 12 months is about 50pence a week, you can get Castrol Magnatec or similar branded 5W-30 synthetic for that. I know the price of crude oil has dropped recently, but not that much.
I know someone who had his Golf GTi engine rebuilt and then put nasty supermarket special oil in it DOOHHHHH (cost him about £10), engine seized a few days later, may have been his driving style, but who can tell :-X
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I agree, I use Royal Purple 5w 30 full synthetic and its not cheap... but on the up side it doesn't use any oil and the oil always appears clean.. before that I was running Castrol Edge. 215,000km.
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Anyone who know the Mannol oils? From the very little users information on the internet i read it is a good German oil with a nice price. We drive 7000 miles a year and oil (+ filter) will be changed once a year.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160310/de176874b44c221bf27f5baa09b2a1e2.jpg)
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mobil 1 0w/40 oil.in there jazzs i was going to get the oil while it was on offer at £ 35 for 5liters
Great oil & great price, have it in mine only because we get it free* but it's overkill really.
Pretty much any synth or semi-synth 0/5/10 > 30/40w low saps oil will do.
What do you plan on doing with the spare litre?
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TG
* QC samples so even my lawnmower runs on Mobil 1 oil
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there is only one use for cheap oil and thats cooking your chips
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there is only one use for cheap oil and thats cooking your chips
Thanks for your answer, i had never thought of that!
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I do find it odd when someone says a certain oil is great, how do they know?!! just buy a well known respected brand, regardless of price.
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mobil 1 0w/40 oil.in there jazzs i was going to get the oil while it was on offer at £ 35 for 5liters
Great oil & great price, have it in mine only because we get it free* but it's overkill really.
Pretty much any synth or semi-synth 0/5/10 > 30/40w low saps oil will do.
What do you plan on doing with the spare litre?
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TG
* QC samples so even my lawnmower runs on Mobil 1 oil
I sometimes use high performance oil left over from motorbike oil change in the mower as well - although I wouldn't buy it specially for that !!
SAPS - Sulphated Ash, Phosphorous and Suphur - in modern diesels with DPF (diesel particulate filter - Joke) and TWC (three way CAT converter) using anything but low saps oil will block the DPF and damage the Cat (then the RSPCA may get involved).
no good using really expensive oil in a Jazz - it isn't actually a high performance highly stressed engine - there are plenty of mid-price semi or fully synth oils out there (£25 to £35) that will keep it happy - and if the oil doesn't get dirty it probably isn't doing its job of mopping up and buffering the combustion products that get past the piston rings.
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I do find it odd when someone says a certain oil is great, how do they know?!! just buy a well known respected brand, regardless of price.
The Mannol brand is in the German magazine 'Auto Motor und Sport" tested and be 'TestSieger' (winner).
I was just asking if someone here knew and used it.
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I do find it odd when someone says a certain oil is great, how do they know?!! just buy a well known respected brand, regardless of price.
The Mannol brand is in the German magazine 'Auto Motor und Sport" tested and be 'TestSieger' (winner).
I was just asking if someone here knew and used it.
There is that much choice of well known branded oils available at good prices I wouldn't go out of my way to use one that has almost no info on internet - If I had a high performance car I would look at oils more closely, I use better quality oil in my motorbike than I do in my car because it has less oil capacity, is more highly stressed and the clutch runs in oil so you have to be careful not to get oils with certain friction reducing additives.
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Use a quality oil of the correct spec and always change the oil filter every year of 7.5k miles.
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A point I noticed currently, is that if you use Harfords fully synthetic 5w 40 oil is change it twice a year, I usually do it around now for after winter then at the end of summer ready for winter.
I changed mine last week, and defiantly got quieter tappets on cold starts now.
I'm also planning on buying some molyslip to see how that goes.
I only get Harfords oil when it goes on offer for about £10. As mentioned, if it's cheaper just change it more often, I'm the type who prefers to change oil regularly, and flush all the crappy carbon bits and God knows what, out with the old oil.
As culzean says oil is there to catch piston ring blow by too. You defiantly don't want your piston rings to go solid with carbon deposits.
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A point I noticed currently, is that if you use Harfords fully synthetic 5w 40 oil is change it twice a year, I usually do it around now for after winter then at the end of summer ready for winter.
I changed mine last week, and defiantly got quieter tappets on cold starts now.
I'm also planning on buying some molyslip to see how that goes.
I only get Harfords oil when it goes on offer for about £10. As mentioned, if it's cheaper just change it more often, I'm the type who prefers to change oil regularly, and flush all the crappy carbon bits and God knows what, out with the old oil.
As culzean says oil is there to catch piston ring blow by too. You defiantly don't want your piston rings to go solid with carbon deposits.
Do you need to change the filter every time theres an oil change? I changed the my oil and filter in December 05w-30w. I'd like to change the oil again next month, was going to leave the filter what do people think?
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If you feel there is a need to change the oil, then you should also change the filter.
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If you feel there is a need to change the oil, then you should also change the filter.
Why though explain please? The oil has started sooting up a bit, but i'm hearing it's not as necessary for the filter.
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If you feel there is a need to change the oil, then you should also change the filter.
Why though explain please? The oil has started sooting up a bit, but i'm hearing it's not as necessary for the filter.
When I was doing lots of miles a year (around 25 to 30K) I changed my oil twice a year but only changed the filter once - made at least one of the changes a lot quicker and saved a bit of money for a better oil.
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If you feel there is a need to change the oil, then you should also change the filter.
Why though explain please? The oil has started sooting up a bit, but i'm hearing it's not as necessary for the filter.
When I was doing lots of miles a year (around 25 to 30K) I changed my oil twice a year but only changed the filter once - made at least one of the changes a lot quicker and saved a bit of money for a better oil.
My thoughts exactly Colin , I do a lot of London milage stop start, think its good to change every 6 months filter once a year mate.
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For the price of an oil filter it's a no-brainer IMO. Change it everytime.
I do my oil changes every 6k or 6 months ( whichever is sooner ) as I do a lot of London miles that are low speed so would rather change oil more freq .
I'm using Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 Fully Synth Engine Oil as it's cheap enough on the opieoils site.( £25 for 6 litres ).
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I tend to change filter once a year.
I don't like to get any ultra cheapo one for in case bypass valve was ever needed.
I know an old trick is to get some cheapo Neodymium magnets , and pop a few up in your sump once oil has drained, that way you know any swarf from engine really does collect. I know some of those dodgy magnets manufacturers put in there are pants.
It's all about learning your engine, if it's a bit tappetty sounding then you know oil is breaking down. It has a certain stickiness to it. If you do lots of cold starts your going to need to change filter more often for piece of mind.
As to Steve's original question, if you have a branded filter on, it's up to you, at a guess they are about £5. If I were you I'd leave oil and filter change until June. Depends how tight you are, I'm yorkshire bred so like to get my use out of stuff.
In the end so long as it isn't clogged up with 5years old crappy old stuff your ok, I'm sure many folks who know their beans on here have seen oil coming out like tar on old second hand cars etc.
A bit off topic my stepdaughters Nissan notes oil filter had rusted through before I changed it for her :o engine is still sweet as a nut :D
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here are a couple of 'rules of thumb' (some of them do involve your thumb) on oil - no real scientific basis, just experience - pull out the dipstick and wipe thumb and first finger along it to get some oil.
colour is a reasonable guide but not foolproof, new oil is normally honey-coloured and gets darker with use as it absorbs an neutralizes combustion products, but a cheap oil may stay 'clean' longer than an expensive one as the crap isn't gathered up and broken down by the oil but sinks to bottom of sump or gets stuck in filter.
put thumb up to your nose, does oil smell 'burnt' it shouldn't
slide thumb and finger together - does oil feel slick or sticky, if sticky not a good sign
push thumb and first finger together and pull apart slowly - does oil form a neck about 3 to 4mm long ? if it is still good it should, if it breaks straight away probably on the way out.
now here is the health and safety bit, according to 'risk-averse cotton-wool wrappers' you should really wear elbow length gloves and full face-mask / breathing apparatus when messing with oil, but gloves kind of spoil the whole 'feel' thing.
Just make sure you wash area properly to get oil off your mitts before grabbing a sandwich LOL.
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I always use Castrol Magnatec (5w50) which costs the equivalent of £12 for 5 litres. The saving in cost for lesser quality oil is negligible over the running period. I change the oil and filter every 10000km
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I do find it odd when someone says a certain oil is great, how do they know?!! just buy a well known respected brand, regardless of price.
I've worked for Castrol and Royal Purple / Bel Ray. I can def say they have some good oil..