Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: guest5168 on February 09, 2015, 03:13:50 PM
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Everytime I get in my jazz the windows are just soaking wet with condensated water, while other cars at the same time have 0 problems,yet for mine I always have to wipe windows off to be able to drive..
anyone has had the same problem with their jazz? any fix for this?
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Are you running with the cabin air intake set to recirculate, if so this prevents a flow of air through the car and builds up the water vapour in the car which will condense on any cold surface ?
Set the air intake to outside air and run the fan speed at no lower than position 2 and never turn it off. Run the heater at maximum for as long as you can stand it and if you have air con turn it on to dry the inside of the car out, don't believe the green comments on fuel consumption.
Vic.
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Are you running with the cabin air intake set to recirculate, if so this prevents a flow of air through the car and builds up the water vapour in the car which will condense on any cold surface ?
Set the air intake to outside air and run the fan speed at no lower than position 2 and never turn it off. Run the heater at maximum for as long as you can stand it and if you have air con turn it on to dry the inside of the car out, don't believe the green comments on fuel consumption.
Vic.
I have the air intake on outside and ALWAYS on position 2-3 , + all the time aircon on, this is the only way I can get back my windshield :( but it never seems to cure it anyway,always after few hours the window is fogged up with loads of water, UK climate doesn't really helps this anyway,in summer I never get this problem.
Filled up few socks now with cat litter and put it in car,let's see if this can help a bit.
btw the aircon DOES uses Lots of fuel , probably ~15-20% more than without it.
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btw the aircon DOES uses Lots of fuel , probably ~15-20% more than without it.
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This is certainly not the case on any of the Jazz's I have owned and I never turn the aircon off. They have worked out at about 2mpg less so about 4% and that's recoverable by moderating your right foot if you want to.
Vic.
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If you are suffering from that much condensation first thing to check is the spare wheel well to make sure that it is not full of water and if it is then that is the cause. Next thing to do is to find out where the water is entering into the car and most likely area is around the seams where the roof joins the "C" pillar. I think there is a thread on this.
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Check to see if the pollen filter is blocked, if so just change it, problem sorted.
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If you are suffering from that much condensation first thing to check is the spare wheel well to make sure that it is not full of water and if it is then that is the cause. Next thing to do is to find out where the water is entering into the car and most likely area is around the seams where the roof joins the "C" pillar. I think there is a thread on this.
sometimes it's realllllly damp there ,infact i had removed the lining from there since it was soaking wet before that as was absorbing all the water..
Btw I have it converted to LPG as soon as i bought it,was there somekind of ventilation holes I may have covered when installing lpg tank in space of spare wheel?
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This happened on my wifes GD - windows always fogged up when car was parked, turned out to be water in the wheel well - simple fix, just drilled a 6mm hole in one of the bungs at the lowest point of wheel well. Never had the problem with my GD though.
She also had water in wheel well of her GE, this turned out to be leakage around the base of the aerial.
Worth checking pollen filter as when this gets blocked it considerably reduces the airflow, also use aircon - it doesn't use much extra fuel and keeps inside car drier.
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Yeah, check the pollen filter, you can get a new one for not much from here: http://www.carparts4less.co.uk (http://www.carparts4less.co.uk) . Also when you take the pollen filter out (see the handbook for instructions on how to do this) you can check that the re-circulation flap is actually open to allow outside air to enter. Over the years I have had my Jazz I have gone through periods of leaving the AC on and some of switching it on and off, always seem to need it on when it is raining. Every time I fill up I work out the fuel consumption and I have kept the readings and I could not see any difference between having the AC on or off so now I just leave it on all the time. The main detrimental effect on fuel consumption seems to be the cold weather and stop start town driving.
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All our Jazzes have misted up, the GD's were worse than the new ones. We now use bean bag dehumidifier things, bought from ama**n, they work quite well. When the little circle goes pink you stick it in the microwave to dry it out.
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thanks for the ideas, no more condensation problem in my jazz so it seems, what i did
-Place cat litter in 3socks and placed in car at random places ( same effect as those dehumidifiers)
-took out the pollen filter out completely since it was dirty anyway
-set the air circulation from inside the car to outside the car
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Good news to learn your condensation free, I would advise replacing the cabin filter as all sorts of debris will collect in the unit. about £11.00 ebay - blueprint do an OEM filter
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The only times I used recirculate on any car was with aircon on a hot day to get interior temperature down quicker ( when you select 'auto' climate control on a hot day the system automatically switches to recirc) and sometimes switch on aircon and heater together on recirculate for short period to dry car out. Otherwise air can become stale and if you use recirc without aircon being on the windows will quickly mist up.
did you check the boot, I think that as the LPG is used up (evaporated from tank) the surface of tank will get colder, this may be condensing water which drips into wheel well and comes out to play on the inside of window glass when you park the car.
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I always have the heater/air con switched to recirculate principally because I drive in city and don't want to get a lung full of noxious gasses and particulates straight out of the tail pipe of the car in front. I do find that the windscreen does tend to mist up and rarely complete a journey (as short as they are) without using the aircon demister. I have the passenger window open a centimetre to allow a little air in.
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I just solved this problem too.....a new Bosch cabin pollen filter for £6. The easiest one I've ever fitted!
And yes to setting the recirc switch to external air and the aircon on! In my other cars I always leave the climate control on Auto which effectively keeps the zircon operating and they never steam up. The fuel economy is not noticeably affected and I can't stand steamed up windows.
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I too have experienced the fog! But it's completely gone now. Just change the filter in the glove box. Simple!
And boy was the old filter a dirty black mess!!!
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Changed mine in end of Jun last year, doesn't time fly! Cost almost £40 at Honda dealer to buy both :o! I fitted them in five minutes at dealer. I believe air filter can be changed every two years and pollen filter every year. Since I don't do much mileage I think I'll be do'n that for sure.
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Buy on-line or at a factors, you will get them for a quarter of the main dealer price.
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Changed mine in end of Jun last year, doesn't time fly! Cost almost £40 at Honda dealer to buy both :o! I fitted them in five minutes at dealer. I believe air filter can be changed every two years and pollen filter every year. Since I don't do much mileage I think I'll be do'n that for sure.
oh wow lol, the cabin filter is 5quid shipped and the air filter was like 3 or 4pounds off ebay.
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I get all my filters from this site: http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/ (http://www.carparts4less.co.uk/) I have been using them for sometime now and never had a problem with them.
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oh wow lol, the cabin filter is 5quid shipped and the air filter was like 3 or 4pounds off ebay.
Mmm I'm a bit dubious about always buying the cheapest parts off Ebay. For critical parts, that might total the car should they fail, I would say it's better to buy OEM at least you can be sure of the quality. I wouldn't for example want the oil filter to clog or disintegrate!
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I love a bargain but as said on the news, the next biggest buy from a house people buy, is a car, so buying quality is more important than saving the pennies because if the worse happens i hope the saved pennies cover the cost .......... heheh
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oh wow lol, the cabin filter is 5quid shipped and the air filter was like 3 or 4pounds off ebay.
Mmm I'm a bit dubious about always buying the cheapest parts off Ebay. For critical parts, that might total the car should they fail, I would say it's better to buy OEM at least you can be sure of the quality. I wouldn't for example want the oil filter to clog or disintegrate!
are u kidding me now? IT's AN AIR FILTER!!!
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oh wow lol, the cabin filter is 5quid shipped and the air filter was like 3 or 4pounds off ebay.
Mmm I'm a bit dubious about always buying the cheapest parts off Ebay. For critical parts, that might total the car should they fail, I would say it's better to buy OEM at least you can be sure of the quality. I wouldn't for example want the oil filter to clog or disintegrate!
are u kidding me now? IT's AN AIR FILTER!!!
An air filter is a critical part. Cheepo Chinese copies probably haven't been tested or made to spec and no idea how they will age.
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oh wow lol, the cabin filter is 5quid shipped and the air filter was like 3 or 4pounds off ebay.
Mmm I'm a bit dubious about always buying the cheapest parts off Ebay. For critical parts, that might total the car should they fail, I would say it's better to buy OEM at least you can be sure of the quality. I wouldn't for example want the oil filter to clog or disintegrate!
are u kidding me now? IT's AN AIR FILTER!!!
An air filter is a critical part. Cheepo Chinese copies probably haven't been tested or made to spec and no idea how they will age.
Its not just a filter, there is plenty of science and hidden technology in filters. Certainly would not use anything but OEM oil filters as a faulty one can have too large a pore size and let untreated oil bypass, too small a pore size and clog quickly or the filter medium can break down due to hot oil and actually contaminate oil.
quote from a filter makers website- A typical vehicle engine can draw 10,000 gallons (45,000 litres) of air for every gallon of fuel it burns. - unfiltered particles entering engine through air intake can accelerate engine wear.