Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 => Topic started by: BlueMonday on March 18, 2026, 12:38:54 PM
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Hello all,
I bought my Honda Jazz in 2022 with 13000 miles on the clock and I do about 4500 miles a year, the mileage is now just over 30000.
Just had an M.O.T and have an advisory that the front and rear pads are wearing thin.
No problem. I was wondering how many miles is the average. I know that is dependent on how aggressively one brakes and accelerates etc. I am told that I am at the cautious end of the scale.
Also I understand the original brake pads that are fitted to a new car are of a higher quality than the ones that are usually fitted when a replacement is needed.
I am just interested in your experience with the above.
Thanks.
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Hi - I have had my Jazz Mk3 from almost new (I purchased it from the dealer as an ex-demonstrator at 3,000 miles). I changed the original brake pads for the first time (front and rear) at 31,500 miles (4.5 years old). The rear pads had a couple of thousand miles left, but I changed them at the same time as the front to save me going back. I didn't change the discs as they were OK at the time, but will be doing this when I next change the pads (I monitor them and expect this to be around 60,000 miles).
In terms of the replacements, I used Honda OEM spec pads purchased from Cox Motor Parts (to ensure the same quality).
https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/honda-jazz/2016-jazz/2016-jazz-brake-pads-and-discs/ (https://www.coxmotorparts.co.uk/honda-shop/honda-jazz/2016-jazz/2016-jazz-brake-pads-and-discs/)
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I've always considered myself to be a gentle breaker... I suppose I am about to find out.
Honda Jazz EX i-VTEC CVT (Auto)
Registered 2018 - Acquired car in 2022 with around 10k miles on the clock.
New front discs and front and rear pads @ 25275 miles
Rear pads @ 44172 miles
So far...
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Thank-you both for the replies and information.
Good to know there is nothing out of the ordinary that I need new brake pads at the mileage I am at.
The only other advisory was both Front tyres worn close to legal limit and worn on edge, I assume that is a tracking issue?
Both rear tyres slightly damaged/cracking perishing, was told maybe due to underuse.
I currently have Michelin 185/60 R15 which I assume are the original tryes.
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I'm afraid I'm unable to help on why the tyres are worn on the edge - but your conclusion that the tracking is out sounds reasonable.
In terms of the tyres cracking, leaving a car to stand still for long periods with no use can certainly damage them, but I've never heard of underuse being a reason for general surface cracking (I will defer to others on this).
However, I can tell you that all tyres have a lifespan (irrespective of mileage) and will eventually begin to crack with age. This is why every single tyre has a DOT number on it which reveals the factory code and production date (the last four digits - the first two digits stand for the production week and the last two indicate the year).
According to Protyres, the lifespan of tyres is as follows:-
"If they are looked after, a car tyre has a “shelf life” of up to 10 years. Again, this is just an estimate because every brand is constructed from slightly different compounds. More important are the conditions the tyre is exposed to. If you literally keep a tyre on a shelf, protected from air, dampness, light and temperature fluctuations, it will be good to drive for at least 10 years. If left on an unused vehicle, they will be damaged in a matter of months if you don’t jack up or rotate the wheels. On the road, tyres need scrutinising after 5 years of age."
In light of the above, my own position is that I replace any tyres when they exceed 5 years old and exhibit multiple surface cracks. If there is no cracking at all, I would keep a tyre until it reaches 10 years old.
The original set of Michelin Energy Saver tyres on my car were produced in May 2019 and began to exhibit light surface cracks after 4 years (my car is not garaged), but I kept using them for another year before replacement (all at 30,000 miles).
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My front and rear pads were replaced 3 years ago (30k miles driven so far) and are 50% worn. 50k miles lifespan expected.
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Blimey, I have done 62,500 miles in mine and only had to change rear pads and that was because the pins had got sticky and wore them down prematurely.
I'm guessing the front ones are due a change soon, I'm planning my yearly underbody inspection, underseal touch-up etc. when the weather gets better.
They are original honda ones which were fitted when purchased the car at a main dealer.
I do find that If you put the really cheap brake pads on they wear out quickly and create loads of brake dust too.
My front tyres get 23,000. I use protyre sumitomo tyres which are excellent, probably more grip than the Michelin, and well priced.
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i own a 69plate & have just had the front & rear pads changed - 60k on clock.
the garage said the old ones that came out had the honda logo on so were genuine.
makes sense as i noticed that when i bought the car with dealer service history, the pads had been replaced at 30k.
so assuming its normal everyday driving, 30k seems to be the 'norm' for pads.
but as you say, everyones driving style is different & circumstances as to motorway driving or just 'sunday' driving has an effect.
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Thank-you all for the replies, I have found it really helpful.
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I recently replaced the pads, got the replacement ones from Eurocarparts
Front took me 1 hour, and pads cost under £30
Rears took hour and 30 minutes
Cost under £20,the time difference was screwing the pistons in the calipers
Garages said I needed discs,but they looked excellent, and very little wear,
I think they like to pads the invoice
I have had the car since 24k miles, now on 62k
I think the pads I removed were original
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
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Depends on what kind of miles. Even mega miles on a motorway may give little brake pad or tyre wear . Town driving etc ,with lots of braking , or driving round bends etc can give a lot of brake and tyre wear per mile driven. Especially if you drive aggressively. Cars parked outside can get rusty discs quite quickly . Braking a few times clears the rust but meanwhile the rust is abrasive and pad wear higher per mile driven .Especially if you typically only make occasional short trips.
Original Honda pads are a compromise between reasonable brake performance and long service life. Some after market pads may be good quality but more sports orientated. Their lining material may be softer for better stopping grip, or perform better when hot etc, but wear faster. Some after market pads are just inferior quality.
All a bit of a lottery really. ;D
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I recently replaced the pads, got the replacement ones from Eurocarparts
Front took me 1 hour, and pads cost under £30
Rears took hour and 30 minutes
Cost under £20,the time difference was screwing the pistons in the calipers
Garages said I needed discs,but they looked excellent, and very little wear,
I think they like to pads the invoice
I have had the car since 24k miles, now on 62k
I think the pads I removed were original
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I have been watching some Youtube videos on replacing the brake pads.
I did replace the front pads on my previous car, a Ford a few years ago.
The replacement non Honda pads are available online, but like Lord Voltermore wrote, the quality is unknown, a bit of a lottery.
There is a tool for pushing the brake piston back in, I understand the rear ones are left and right handed because of the handbrake.
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I got my pads,Eicher from Eurocarparts,
Have done about 500 miles, bedded in great,car stops well
Screwing in the rear caliper pistons is in the normal clockwise direction,
There is slots in the pistons so just use a flat piece of metal like a giant screwdriver
Hope that helps
As for pads quality ,buy it from an outlet the trade uses,no issues
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Many thanks for the information.
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Hello all,
I thought I would try to replace the front brake pads to see how I get on.
I bought Eicher pads, piston retraction tool, silicone grease for the sliders, copper grease, brake cleaner, thread lock, wire brush.
Watched a few Youtube videos.
It went ok, I did have to take a small amount of brake fluid out of the reservoir, I assume because the new pads are a lot thicker.
I do have a torque wrench but it does not have NM on it. For the wheel nuts at 120NM, is that the same as 88.5 ft-lbs?
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All those seem good
I have checked a comparison chart and the figures seem ok,
When you do the rear,
You need to screw in the pistons,
That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do
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https://www.unitconverters.net/energy/nm-to-ft-lb.htm
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When you do the rear,
You need to screw in the pistons,
That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do
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I did use a piston retraction tool to push the pistons in, is that what you mean by screw the pistons in?
I was going to ask about the handbrake. For the front I put it in park and used the handbrake but I think for changing the rear pads I need to put it in park and not use the handbrake, is that correct?
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https://www.unitconverters.net/energy/nm-to-ft-lb.htm
Thank-you, very helpful.
I wonder why my torque wrench does not have NM. Is it Japanese cars that use NM and not European cars?
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Probably your torque wrench is from US or it is very old. Both European and Japanese manufacturers use metric units nowadays. US still sticks pounds and feet.
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When you do the rear,
You need to screw in the pistons,
That,and the handbrake cable getting in the way, should be ok to do
Sent from my SM-A546E using Tapatalk
I did use a piston retraction tool to push the pistons in, is that what you mean by screw the pistons in?
I was going to ask about the handbrake. For the front I put it in park and used the handbrake but I think for changing the rear pads I need to put it in park and not use the handbrake, is that correct?
They need a rewind tool something like this -
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/392898691985?
Older pistons were simply pushed into their bores ,which may have needed a tool to exert extra pushing force. If you have tried pushing when you should rewind it wont have worked.
Sorry my practical knowledge of changing pads is too out of date to answer your second question but it does sound logical. Plus wedging the other wheels, and other safety precautions working around a raised car. ;)