Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk3 2015-2020 => Topic started by: Sarah on December 16, 2025, 02:26:09 PM
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The tyre deflation warning light has recently started coming on every couple of days on my 2018 Jazz. The tyre pressures are correct; I've checked them with more than one gauge, in case the gauge was faulty. It's a nuisance having to initialise the warning system every two or three days. I understand it's not a system which can be disabled. Has anyone found the answer to this problem?
Incidentally, there are several other little quirks about this car which are quite annoying and I wonder if they're all linked? I mentioned them to a garage and they didn't seem to have any idea of the cause. The parking sensor turns itself off on a fairly regular basis so I have to check that the light is on each time before reversing. Sometimes I have to restart the engine to be able to switch the sensor back on. Cruise control, which I've only tried using a couple of times, cuts out as I'm driving along, although I'm not pressing the pedals to override it. The automatic light function occasionally turns itself off so I have to take over manually until I can restart the car, when the automatic lights work again. Also the windscreen wipers seem to have a mind of their own, turning on double speed or any other speed they fancy when set to intermittent.
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The TPMS system is often a problem on the GK and for no apparent reason, when I had my GK it was fine for months on end then would suddenly start giving problems almost every trip. Lots of tips online about things to try, most successful for me was resetting it 3 times one after the other.
As far as the other problems, mysterious gremlins are often the sign of a weak battery, when was it last changed or is it the original?
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how good are your tyres? are they origional and worn as i had light come on all the time on the motorway on the origional tyres that were worn down and after a new set i now have no problems at all
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hi sarah
snap! i had the same issue - pressures all ok and ping on came the light.
what seems to have solved it is identical tyres on the same axle.
i needed 2 rear so no problem & hopefully its done.
btw you can reset it by the toggle switch on the steering wheel
heres a link - do this 3 times constantly & the light will flash 2 or 3 times which means youve reset it completely.
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That video is incomplete. The actions shown will start the recalibration process, but during the next 30 minutes of driving the car is gathering the data to complete it. The handbook says you need to ensure you get up to high speed during that period … if you don’t, the car doesn't “see” the full speed envelope and false DWS warnings at high speed are likely. And where does this nonsense about “do it 3 times and the light will flash” come from??
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The advice on previous Civics of mine was :
Once the initialisation has been triggered, drive for at least half an hour, taking in left and right bends and straight roads and at various speeds
The old phrase 'crap in crap out' comes to mind if you don't follow the instructions
The only time you may experience a few false positive triggers is with a new single tyre. I had that and the system is so sensitive it can detect different rotation patterns as the new tyre wall beds in
My Civic TPMS triggered within a mile of the new tyre, then again at 100 and 300 miles. After the third initialisation it never triggered again
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That video is incomplete. The actions shown will start the recalibration process, but during the next 30 minutes of driving the car is gathering the data to complete it. The handbook says you need to ensure you get up to high speed during that period … if you don’t, the car doesn't “see” the full speed envelope and false DWS warnings at high speed are likely. And where does this nonsense about “do it 3 times and the light will flash” come from??
hi ColinB 1st of all apologies if ive misled you about the 3 times reset but i actualy only knew about it by watching this youtube video - from 1 minute onwards & it works for me.
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Well, that’s one person’s opinion. I notice he doesn’t tell you to follow the handbook instructions by driving at speed, so that’s yet another video giving people incomplete advice.
Personally, I’ve never found it necessary to do it three times, once has always worked for me (provided I follow the handbook instructions and drive fast after initialising the calibration). Don’t you think that if it was necessary to do it three times Honda might have mentioned that in the handbook? What the handbook does say is that if the indicator comes on briefly - which can mean it appears to blink or flash - it means the calibration process isn’t complete.
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The TPMS system is often a problem on the GK and for no apparent reason, when I had my GK it was fine for months on end then would suddenly start giving problems almost every trip. Lots of tips online about things to try, most successful for me was resetting it 3 times one after the other.
As far as the other problems, mysterious gremlins are often the sign of a weak battery, when was it last changed or is it the original?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I'll try initialising three times and see if it helps. I don't know the age of the battery. It hasn't been changed since I bought the car two and a half years ago.
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how good are your tyres? are they origional and worn as i had light come on all the time on the motorway on the origional tyres that were worn down and after a new set i now have no problems at all
It has two new front tyres. The rear tyres are still fine.
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The tyre deflation warning light has recently started coming on every couple of days on my 2018 Jazz. The tyre pressures are correct; I've checked them with more than one gauge, in case the gauge was faulty. It's a nuisance having to initialise the warning system every two or three days. I understand it's not a system which can be disabled. Has anyone found the answer to this problem?
How far are you driving in a single journey after each reset? As noted elsewhere, the system needs a reasonable journey to get fully calibrated. If it doesn't get this then there's the risk of false alarms as it's not properly calibrated but will switch back to monitoring mode ready to alert you should there genuinely be a soft tyre.
As for the auto wipers, the best in my experience was the Mk 2 Jazz and subsequent versions are worse.
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The only reason I have got TPMS alarms is when rear brake pads have been dragging. The wheel becomes hot and tyre pressure rises.
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The TPMS system is often a problem on the GK and for no apparent reason, when I had my GK it was fine for months on end then would suddenly start giving problems almost every trip. Lots of tips online about things to try, most successful for me was resetting it 3 times one after the other.
As far as the other problems, mysterious gremlins are often the sign of a weak battery, when was it last changed or is it the original?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks, I'll try initialising three times and see if it helps. I don't know the age of the battery. It hasn't been changed since I bought the car two and a half years ago.
Has resetting three times ever helped?
I get the pressure warning light all the time on longer journeys which I've put down to uneven tyres since I have an odd one out. Only once was it an actual problem with a slow puncture, but then it took the car driving differently for me to notice. So now if the warning light is on and the car feels off even a bit I check the pressure even if I think it's other reasons like strong winds. Plus I top up the pressure often.
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I get the pressure warning light all the time on longer journeys which I've put down to uneven tyres since I have an odd one out.
I can confirm odd tyres on an axle will do it. I bought mine last July, and the TPMS went off before I even got it home from the dealer. I couldn't get it to shut up for months because the tyres on the rear axle didn't match. Once I got matching tyres fitted it's been fine since.
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Had the same issue with my 23 reg mk4 SR, after having burst a tyre after hitting a pothole when the tyre was replaced it took 3/4 resets to stabilise I put it down to having a new tyre on one side and a half worn one on the other. ;D ;D
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Spot on
As the new tyre wall beds in and softens it does trigger the TPMS a few times
Should take about 300 miles
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Spot on
As the new tyre wall beds in and softens it does trigger the TPMS a few times
Should take about 300 miles
This is also the reason why odd makes of tyre can sometimes give false alarms. Some tyre walls are more flexible than others. And may heat up at different rates, affecting air pressure. Even the same brand and model of tyre sometimes come in standard and XL (extra load) versions ,or different speed ratings etc that might affect side wall flexibility.
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Check you haven't got a sticking brake caliper.
This can cause the TPMS to trigger as it works off the speed sensors.
Had this with our HRV when we first got it.
Changed the pads and flushed the brake fluid ,problem solved.
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Could you please elaborate how the sticking brake caliper affects to the wheel speed sensors.
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I have had problems with TPMS when driving on one section of the M25.
This is where they had changed to a "smart motorway".
So when driving in lane 1 the nearside wheels were running on the old hard shoulder whilst the off side was on the normal surface.
This difference in road surface seemed to upset the TPMS
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I used to drive the M25 daily and never had a problem
I still believe the initialisation is important
The advice was to perform a half hour drive taking in left and right corners, various speeds and road types.
My 20 mile journey to work was perfect as it took in A roads, B roads, 2 Motorways and various speeds and took 40 mins.
I've seen posts where some have performed the initialisation in a number of short journeys which in my view may cause issues
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Most of the reports of false alarms seem to involve motorways, which makes me wonder whether the calibration process is being carried out diligently. The handbook advises you should get up to high speed during the calibration period. If you don’t, and just pootle around at 30-40mph, then the system isn’t seeing the full range of wheel speeds so how would it know what’s normal at motorway speeds? Probably exacerbated by mismatched or new tyres, as reported by some.
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Most of the reports of false alarms seem to involve motorways, which makes me wonder whether the calibration process is being carried out diligently. The handbook advises you should get up to high speed during the calibration period. If you don’t, and just pootle around at 30-40mph, then the system isn’t seeing the full range of wheel speeds so how would it know what’s normal at motorway speeds? Probably exacerbated by mismatched or new tyres, as reported by some.
Also tyres gain a few psi when they get hot on motorway speeds, so any small difference is exaggerated.
I'm guessing different brands have different rubber properties too which again accounts for different branded tyres heating up at different speeds and giving false alarms.
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page 450 of owners handbook
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Could you please elaborate how the sticking brake caliper affects to the wheel speed sensors.
In answer to your question TnTkr...
The tyre deflation system relies on signals from the ABS sensor which inputs to a mathematic algorithm in the ECU. It's not a true pressure reading, but relies on 'pulses' from the ABS sensor on each wheel to simulate rolling circumference of each wheel.
A sticking brake caliper will generate heat into the wheel, which will in turn generate heat into the tyre, thereby increasing its rolling circumference and affecting the amount of 'pulses' the ABS sensor generates per wheel rotation.
Also an an aside, most modern (ish cars) use some sort of stability programme - ESC in Honda terms? - and these tend to use the rear brakes to offer stability in adverse situations generally without the driver knowing. That's why a lot of owners don't appreciate why their rear brakes tend to wear out quicker then the fronts which actually take the most load in normal situations.
I appreciate this forms demographic may not really appreciate or indeed care what I've written, but I've thrown it out there anyway.
Hope this helps.
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Thank you for your answer BadgerMk3! You seem to know how the system works. That's also exactly what I tried to say in reply #11.
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Also an an aside, most modern (ish cars) use some sort of stability programme - ESC in Honda terms? - and these tend to use the rear brakes to offer stability in adverse situations generally without the driver knowing. That's why a lot of owners don't appreciate why their rear brakes tend to wear out quicker then the fronts which actually take the most load in normal situations.
You learn something every day .I knew stability control existed but never really equated it to increased rear pad wear. Thanks .The car must have other clever tricks that confound the uninitiated.
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how do i calibrate the tpms?
ive followed the instructions below & all it said was completed straight away without even driving.
i know ive got to drive for 30 mins between 30 - 70 mph but what dash setting do i need for this?
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how do i calibrate the tpms?
ive followed the instructions below & all it said was completed straight away without even driving.
i know ive got to drive for 30 mins between 30 - 70 mph but what dash setting do i need for this?
Indeed, it says ‘completed’ straight away. But the manual also states that it will complete automatically. The initiation of the recalibration is completed, not the recalibration itself. It will start to do that without any further actions. So you do not need to do anything except driving like you normally would :D.
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It is instructed a bit strange way. It misses to tell that after the display returns to show "completed", then you need to start driving as instructed. And as the manual say, the system finished the process automatically.
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My Jazz triggered a tyre deflation warning. Checked 4 tyre pressures - all were within 0.5psi of what they should be. Reset the warning. Drove about 50 miles at max 60mph. Deflation warning triggered again.
Rechecked all 4 tyres (when tyres had cooled) with same digital pressure gauge, and all were exactly the same as they were two days previously. Reset it again
I did have a sticky brake calliper replaced earlier in the year, but have since regularly checked that none of the wheels is getting hot.
Plus - before the calliper was replaced and the wheel got hot, the hot wheel did NOT trigger the deflation warning. (That makes sense actually, because the tyre circumference would have IN-creased slightly with the IN-creased pressure, and the Jazz manual specifically says it senses a reduction in tyre pressure, not an increase)
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Do you have matching tyres i.e. make and amount of wear ?