Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - => Topic started by: Lord Voltermore on November 27, 2024, 02:46:46 PM
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My new car has been sitting unused in the rain for a few days and the brake disc rotors have picked up some surface rust. I have taken it for a short run specially to de rust the brakes.
A good way of doing this on a mk4 is to apply the electric handbrake with your finger whilst on the move. Chose somewhere safe. Initially the effect is slight,but rapidly becomes much more powerful. All that power just from my finger ;D If you release your finger before the car stops the brakes will release automatically. I think its a good idea to experience this effect. They are potentially your emergency brakes.
I sometimes neglected to do this on my previous car. After 3 years the brake rotor discs always looked a bit brown , possibly from rust dust being imbedded in slight pitting. They were still quite shiny, and effective and passed the MOT.
Is it only me this happens to ? I sometimes see parked cars with superficial light rusting but most seem to have nice silver shiny discs . Yet all my cars have tended to get rusty brakes, with darker coloured discs .None ever failed the MOT. Different makes of car and in some cases both before and after the discs being replaced. Maybe its because I am usually gentle with the brakes. (Heavy braking is a failure to anticipate ;D )
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I don't do really long trips often, so am in B mode a lot, so do not use a lot of brakes except for stopping at already creeping speed, and this does happen. I apply brake and accel at the same time sometimes when no one is around to give them a clean, I must try your handbrake trick.
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The OE discs on my mk.3 do rust at the least hint of dampness. I tend not to use the Jazz over frequently, I have another run around, though when I do drive it it's usually quite long runs which do clean the discs fairly effectively.
To minimise rust while the car stands I bought a set of wheel covers which help a lot. They are an excellent fit and very easy to fit, just slip them over the top of the wheel and smooth down and round. They haven't blown loose so far. Just slip them up and off again.
Cost was around £40 from a company in the north of England, Carcovers.co.uk. I have the size 14 to 16" wheels for 185/60 -15 tyres.
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I've always found that normal driving and braking soon shifts any surface rust from washing or rain
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No need to mess about with the EPB. just apply the foot brake gently for a few yards.
You can control the footbrake pressure much more easily than the EPB.
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I've always found that normal driving and braking soon shifts any surface rust from washing or rain
I am with Lord V on this one, seeing my brown brakes through the spokes. Not pretty! I also use my brakes very little, hoping that I read the road ahead. I have not used the “handbrake on the move tip yet”, I don’t want flat bits on the tyres! Ha!
My way of reducing excess rust, is to use a steepish hill; build up the speed to perhaps 50 mph, move the stick into neutral, and rest on the brakes to the bottom. By doing it this way, the clever electronics, are not putting this gravitational energy, into charging the battery,
Two final points,…I hope gravitational is a word, as it’s a first for me; and don’t forget to put your car in “Drive”, for your onward journey!
Continue enjoying your Jazz.
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No need to mess about with the EPB. just apply the foot brake gently for a few yards.
You can control the footbrake pressure much more easily than the EPB.
Just applying the foot brake gently for a few yards will not effectively (or better: not at all) remove rust from all 4 brake discs.
When braking gently with the e:HEV, the mechanical brakes are not activated at all, except for the last few meters before coming to a full stop. And when braking slightly less gentle, probably only the front brakes will work.
Here https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=16448.0;attach=10709 you can read that all four brakes are applied with the handbrake and therefore all 4 discs will be cleaned.
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I've always found that normal driving and braking soon shifts any surface rust from washing or rain
My way of reducing excess rust, is to use a steepish hill; build up the speed to perhaps 50 mph, move the stick into neutral, and rest on the brakes to the bottom. By doing it this way, the clever electronics, are not putting this gravitational energy, into charging the battery,
I am under the impression that coasting in neutral is not advisable with an Auto transmission
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You shouldnt coast in neutral. There is no need and I think its technically regarded as not in proper control of the vehicle. But the same may be said of using the electric handbrake :-[
BTW applying the handbrake whilst on the move applies all 4 brakes. I hope someone will correct me if I am wrong but I think it activates the electric brake servo used for abs via the hydraulics . And thus provides an independent backup to brake pedal failure . The rear brakes can also be applied by the electric callipers, so presumably this is a third backup in the unlikely event of total hydraulic failure.
I dont think the brake simulator problem causes brake to fail completely while on the move.. Just lots of warning lights and No go. Which is why Honda have been able to drag their heels on a recall.
I agree you can derust your brakes just using the footbrake. But i found it useful experiencing the affect of using the handbrake. I am now confident of being able to stop the car in an emergency. You can get quite powerful stopping power. After trying it a few times I started to get motion sick
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You shouldnt coast in neutral. There is no need ....
What makes you think this?
Coasting is one of the favourite methods of "normal" automatic gears (they do it without you being aware of it).
So: What's good for the goose...
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Love to see the different options for shining up the discs.
I still think that coasting downhill in neutral, with a bit of foot brake, works best for me.
Got to go now,…. I’m working on a new thread, involving wire wool!
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I only have to not drive my Prius for a couple of days and the discs are definitely a bit rusty so don’t think it’s anything unusual
I expect the same thing to happen when I get my Jazz, hopefully tomorrow
This time of year it’s a bit moist so it’s to be expected I guess
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I'm puzzled
On many occasions, after washing the car and an overnight stand, my discs all had surface rust
At the end of my driveway I could feel and hear the grinding when coming to a stop
2 miles down the road was my Monday morning petrol station, at the end of a 50mph dual carriageway. I probably only had to lightly brake about 3 or 4 times to get there
But, when I got out of the car and looked at the brakes they were all shiny again
No need for any special braking
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I'm puzzled
On many occasions, after washing the car and an overnight stand, my discs all had surface rust
At the end of my driveway I could feel and hear the grinding when coming to a stop
2 miles down the road was my Monday morning petrol station, at the end of a 50mph dual carriageway. I probably only had to lightly brake about 3 or 4 times to get there
But, when I got out of the car and looked at the brakes they were all shiny again
No need for any special braking
Ditto. All the Renaults I had prior to the Jazz did exactly the same... albeit they only had front discs, the rears were always drum (which incidentally, the outer cases all developed a kind of fine rust patina that made the grey/silver paint coating look very tired. This was virtually impossible to clean too unless you removed the wheel).
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My amateur theory is that because when released the brake pads are still very close to the disc, I wonder if there is sufficient heat build up, albeit tiny, to dissipate the rust
Answers on a postcard .......
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You shouldnt coast in neutral. There is no need ....
What makes you think this?
Coasting is one of the favourite methods of "normal" automatic gears (they do it without you being aware of it).
So: What's good for the goose...
To clarify. I specifically mean rolling down hill with the selector in N (not just D or B with no throttle, which is normal. And braking would be just as effective ).
It is contrary to rule 122 in the UK Highway code -
Rule 122
Coasting. This term describes a vehicle travelling in neutral or with the clutch pressed down. It can reduce driver control because
engine braking is eliminated
vehicle speed downhill will increase quickly
increased use of the footbrake can reduce its effectiveness
steering response will be affected, particularly on bends and corners
it may be more difficult to select the appropriate gear when needed.
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Just walked through an estate of bungalows ,predominately OAP's. Several cars on the drives had rusty brakes. Then through an estate where most commute to work (or drive less than 1 km to the gym rather than walk as part of their workout >:( ) They all had shiny Brakes.
I guess it must just be my lifestyle. My car gets occasional very long journeys, but sometimes not used for long periods as we walk to most of our local needs. Rust clears naturally with regular use, but little used cars risk the rust becoming heavier and pitting the discs.
I shall now give some thought to the relationship between shiny discs ,walking and shiny bottoms from being a couch potato. ;D
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;D ;D ;D
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You shouldnt coast in neutral. There is no need ....
What makes you think this?
Coasting is one of the favourite methods of "normal" automatic gears (they do it without you being aware of it).
Some VAG DSG autos do indeed coast under certain conditions but the driver has no control over it doing so, Davejazz is manually shifting the gearstick into neutral from drive, apart from the Highway code point of view shifting an auto whilst on the move is not a good idea, shifting back from neutral into drive may result in transmission problems plus a Hybrid is not charging the battery when in neutral, a better idea is to find a quiet stretch of straight road and apply the brakes hard a couple of times
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... plus a Hybrid is not charging the battery when in neutral ...
I can see, you have never tried this with your Jazz! - Trust me: It will keep the ICE running while in N if the HV-battery needs charging (or heating is required of whatever other reasons Honda's engineers have foreseen to keep the ICE running)!
But we are digressing from the rust on brake discs issue.
Back on topic: My previous VW cars where very much more prone to this issue! - I ended up to actively dry-brake the rear discs in rainy weather with the manual handbrake on the last few hundred yards before stand-still in order to keep them from rusting tight!
Something that was never necessary with the Jazz (and I still apply the handbrake when parking in the garage).
I've done now well over 13'000 miles in my Jazz and all four discs are shiny as new (on the VWs you could see the many places on the rear discs where the plates had "rusted on" from the time before dry-braking).
VW is still under the effect of infamous cost cutting, OPEL seems to have finally recovered from the "Lopez-Effect".