Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: fisherman on February 12, 2022, 05:50:50 PM
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wheels get hot the pedal goes hard
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This can be a consequence of a car that only gets minimal use. Especially if you are habitually quite light on the brakes.
Brake parts can seize up due to rust, other corrosion, brake dust, road salt , road dirt etc. . Rotor discs can get rusty, even overnight, Brake calipers normally have parts that slide freely allowing the brakes to retract themselves when released.These may be be clogged and jammed. Regular use helps keep parts moving.
It could be the handbrake which can jamb on . These will sometimes release themselves if you reverse the car. There may be a sudden clunk as it releases. But its not a permanent cure.
You can tell whether its front or back by which wheels get especially hot. All brakes will get hot anyway,enough to burn you , but a siezed one will be extra hot..
It needs attention. If you are lucky a brake service and thorough cleaning of parts may be enough. Some brake parts may need replacing, and there is always the possibility of another problem such as faulty hydraulics.
Its possible that giving the front discs and calipers a thorough washing with a hose ,and a fairly soft brush might clean them up enough for a temporary fix to get you to the garage. Dont use a pressure washer or stiff brush (unless you really know what you are doing) as these can damage rubber parts.
On a car that gets little use its a good idea to deliberately apply the brakes quite hard every now and then (when safe of course) to help keep parts moving.
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When was your Jazz last serviced?
How many miles covered this year?
Your info will help the forum help you.
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Ive had hot rear wheels 7 months ago and once smoke was coming out too from one of the rear wheels. It came out as the callipers. Ive used a pair of rear callipers from Ebay but the problem never got resolved.
Then saw someone mentioning a company called BigRed who refurbish your own original callipers for around £140 for the pair. I did just that and its all working fine now. Calliper pins got lubricated again too.
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I will routinely check the temperature of wheels when parking the car after a run, this can give early warning of any brake problems, I also press the wall of the tyre with my thumb as a quick check of pressure ( yes my thumb has been calibrated in PSI because of my age ).
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I will routinely check the temperature of wheels when parking the car after a run, this can give early warning of any brake problems, I also press the wall of the tyre with my thumb as a quick check of pressure ( yes my thumb has been calibrated in PSI because of my age ).
I don't dare do that. Lots of hills mean the disks WILL burn my fingers..And have done.
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I will routinely check the temperature of wheels when parking the car after a run, this can give early warning of any brake problems, I also press the wall of the tyre with my thumb as a quick check of pressure ( yes my thumb has been calibrated in PSI because of my age ).
I don't dare do that. Lots of hills mean the disks WILL burn my fingers..And have done.
Well just hold you hand by the wheel and if it is radiating a lot of heat don't touch it :o , I only check the wheel, not the brake disc. There are also a lot of hills where I live but it is very unusual for rear wheel / brakes to get hot unless there is a fault ( and 9 times out of 10 it is rear brakes that stick due to corrosion etc, especially disc brakes ) - the front brakes normally run hotter because they contribute about 85% of the braking force.
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What I tend to do, if I am going to check the temperature OF THE WHEEL CENTRES, is try to avoid using the brakes for the last couple of miles before reaching home. If I do have to use them I apply them gently. it is amazing how quickly a disc cools spinning in the fresh air - even on a summers day.
I remember reading "Ford v Ferrari", about the Le Mans 24 hour race. and on the Mulsanne straight the discs cooled to about -10°C then during the braking for the corner reached almost 1000°C (modern ceramic brakes control their heat much better)
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/30/a7/e9/30a7e920df3e3e76833e5f21b789cb55.jpg)
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I also press the wall of the tyre with my thumb as a quick check of pressure ( yes my thumb has been calibrated in PSI because of my age ).
My body is calibrated in Bars. It gets less accurate after the first couple, and fails completely in the Dog and Duck.
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We need the originator to come back to the forum/provide update.
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I noticed my rear brakes seizing today. I had been wondering why TPMS has triggered warning time to time for last two months, and today I noticed left rear wheel being more warm than the others. I'm driving average 50 km per day and almost daily. 47 000 km on dial and car serviced annually according to the schedule. It's probably Finnish winter weather conditions. Now I need to get an appointment at the Honda dealer and advance the annual service by couple of months to minimize the trouble visiting there.
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Had this a couple of times on my jazz - jack car, remove the wheel, check if caliper pin can slide at all
In my case it was completely stuck - removing it proved very difficult, ended up having to use a heat gun to heat it up & a hammer to remove it - after a bit of sanding down & red grease it's been working for a year after that!
(until the jazz failed it's mot due to unrelated body rust)
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(until the jazz failed it's mot due to unrelated body rust)
Been there. Got the tee shirt.
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wheels get hot the pedal goes hard
YEARS GONE BY, sorted the problem it was the master cylinder, but now I need new pads for our FIT import I am led to believe they may be Civic set up? help please
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Check what our Fit drivers do in USA on fitfreak.net Google then search.