Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - => Topic started by: edam on May 11, 2021, 12:20:12 PM
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I am thinking about buying a secondhand MK4 as they are starting to appear. Has there been any problems with the first ones to come out?
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Had mine since July, no problems so far.
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Depending on model you choose check availability and price of tyres. Some variants have uncommon tyre sizes and choice can be very limited.
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No problems with my Crosstar (bought July 20) that might have been fixed in later production (annoyances such as RDMS are features we all have to live with so that Honda can get the top safety rating).
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What about the Tyre Pressure Sensores which do my brain in on the MK3
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Only had 1 alarm 2 days after picking up the car.
Did a recalibration and no trouble since.
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What about the Tyre Pressure Sensors which do my brain in on the MK3
No problem so far. I can't remember whether I did a precautionary calibration after getting the vehicle but haven't touched the valves since then but I wouldn't be surprised if Honda refined the algorithm which triggers the alarm.
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Have a 2012 Jazz, and quite pleased I do not have to go through all that hassle with TPMS. Have a real handbrake currently . Have a real arm as well ! What happens with TPMS when tyres (and valves) are renewed, and how much do the valves cost ? As eventually I will have to get a more up to date car.
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There are no TPMS valves on the MK3 Jazz, it uses the ABS sensors to measure any circumference differences - cheaper!
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What happens with TPMS when tyres (and valves) are renewed, and how much do the valves cost ?
The valves are not different. The Deflation Warning System works on the rolling radius and rotational characteristics of each wheel and tyre.
I only had a few false warnings with the MK3, the MK4 appears to be better.
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Depending on model you choose check availability and price of tyres. Some variants have uncommon tyre sizes and choice can be very limited.
The tyres on the Mk4 EX are the same as on the Mk2 EX (185/55 R16). They did tend to be more difficult to source when I first got my Mk2, but there's much more choice available nowadays.
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What happens with TPMS when tyres (and valves) are renewed, and how much do the valves cost ? As eventually I will have to get a more up to date car.
After changing tyres or even adjusting the pressures you need to remember to re-run the calibration (tyre fitters won't know how to do that for individual vehicles). The calibration is so that the car knows how fast each wheel rotates relative to the average of the four wheels (and can therefore accommodate different amounts of wear). If the system subsequently detects that there is a significant change from the the calibration condition then it will give a warning.
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MK4 will be under Honda warranty, find one you like driving then negotiate hard & enjoy it.
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On the Deflation Warning system on the MK3 Jazz I have had severe issues with both cars. This current one is new and gave me, iirc, 4 false alarms almost exclusively after motorway cruising, the same happened on my first Mk which was used - 3 false alarms.
Both cars settled down eventually after repeated recalibration.
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On the Deflation Warning system on the MK3 Jazz I have had severe issues with both cars. This current one is new and gave me, iirc, 4 false alarms almost exclusively after motorway cruising, the same happened on my first Mk which was used - 3 false alarms.
Both cars settled down eventually after repeated recalibration.
Didn't yours go back to dealer to be made less sensitive, or 'tweaked' as they may have called it ?
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On the Deflation Warning system on the MK3 Jazz I have had severe issues with both cars. This current one is new and gave me, iirc, 4 false alarms almost exclusively after motorway cruising, the same happened on my first Mk which was used - 3 false alarms.
Both cars settled down eventually after repeated recalibration.
Didn't yours go back to dealer to be made less sensitive, or 'tweaked' as they may have called it ?
In the end it didn't. We had an agreement that the next time the DWS went off I would not recalibrate and take it in with the warning light on. That was the last false arm, it never went off again!
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There are no TPMS valves on the MK3 Jazz, it uses the ABS sensors to measure any circumference differences - cheaper!
Is this also valid for the new generation of Jazz? No TPMS on wheels?
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There are no TPMS valves on the MK3 Jazz, it uses the ABS sensors to measure any circumference differences - cheaper!
Is this also valid for the new generation of Jazz? No TPMS on wheels?
They do have TPMS - tyre pressure monitoring system. Its a legal requirement. My 2024 Jazz still uses the indirect tpms system which measures the rotation speed of the wheels . A tyre that loses air pressure gets slightly smaller and starts to rotate more times per kilometer when compared to the other wheels. What it doesnt have is a tyre pressure sensor valves in each tyre which send individual radio signals to the car. These sensors are quite expensive to replace when their batteries eventually go flat or if you need to buy them for a second set of winter wheels etc.
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My previous EX activated the tpms after about 100 miles from new, possibly the tyres 'bedding in'. Others have reported similar with new tyres. I have just completed 1200 miles from new in my 2024 Advance and no activation so far . So maybe they have improved the system.
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When new, all tyres should bed in at the same rate
I've had 4 new Hondas with TPMS and never had any issues from new
Maybe, like my first dealer, they had the tyre pressures all over the place and when corrected TPMS spotted the change
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Calibration of the system involves driving at speeds up to 60 mph (check the handbook for exact details of calibration procedure). I doubt that they do that at the factory or during the dealer’s PDI. So it’s likely that new cars haven’t had the system properly calibrated, hence the false alarms at low mileages.
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Ive had a few TPMS funnies over the years on the Crosstar, What ive found is that once the TPMS has been recalibrated, its best to switch of the power and then power up again before driving. I dont know why this makes a difference but it does. If you dont, then 20 miles down the road, the warning sometimes comes back despite pressure being checked and A-OK.