Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 => Topic started by: JusJazzinZA on May 29, 2019, 01:43:54 PM
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Greetings fellow Jazzers
Having a strange issue with a 2013 Jazz Comfort CVT (Its the wifes ride).
The rear left electric window does not work, neither from the drivers door switches or the rear door switch.
I've tried switching the fuses - but this is where it gets strange:
Removed/switched fuses:
3 - with this fuse removed, the drivers window doesnt work (makes sense)
17 - with this fuse removed, the front passengers window doesnt work (makes sense)
19 - with this fuse removed, the drivers window doesnt work (DOESNT MAKE SENSE)
20 - with this fuse removed, the Rear Driver's Side Window doesnt work (makes sense)
after switching out all the fuses above- the same issue persists (i cant get the rear window on one side to work at all), but my concern is that removing a "rear window" fuse made the drivers window also stop working (its as if the drivers window is using two fuses, #3 and # 19)
Any ideas?
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Welcome. Wonder if this is any help.
http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/en/html_en/index158.html (http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/en/html_en/index158.html)
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I was cleaning wiindows on my wifes MK2 the weekend and decided to try all the windows up and down and put some dry silicon spray on the runners, the front ones get used fairly often but the rears get little use. I tried both front windows and they booth worked fine. Tried both rear windows and neither worked - at first I thought the 'disable rear windows button' on drivers door armrest was pressed, but tried button both ways a few times and neither rear windows worked, turned the radio off and I could hear a faint noise when I tried to open windows so I hit the rear window with flat of my hand and still not good until I started the engine ( a bit extra voltage ) and then the window I had hit went down, had to hit the other window a few times with the flat of hand and it went down as well, sprayed the runners on rear windows liberally with dry silicon and ran them up and down a few times - everything good.
My point is that because of lack of regular use the rear windows can easily stick, and their is very little indication when you press the buttons that window is trying to open, the thing is that all the window motors have a current sensing system, it is mainly to stop the window moving if it sees too much load ( like someones hand or head in the way ), there are no limit switches on the window movement but when window is fully up or down the load sensing cuts the power and stops motor, if window motor sees too much load on the way up it will stop and then reverse if it sees too much load, which is why when you have dirty runners the window will sometimes try to go up but will reverse and go back down if it sees too much load. If windows are stuck in runners in up position the load sensing will cut motor out before they can move.
You may have to resort to my window thumping and running the engine while trying to move the windows and then get some silicon lube on them ( please do not use standard WD40 on them, as it will inevitably attract dirt and stick them even more firmly ), WD do make a silicon lube though.
https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/
3 in 1 also make a silicon spray, it was on special today at Aldi so I grabbed a couple of cans, long way to come from South Africa to Aldi in UK though.....
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I was cleaning wiindows on my wifes MK2 the weekend and decided to try all the windows up and down and put some dry silicon spray on the runners, the front ones get used fairly often but the rears get little use. I tried both front windows and they booth worked fine. Tried both rear windows and neither worked - at first I thought the 'disable rear windows button' on drivers door armrest was pressed, but tried button both ways a few times and neither rear windows worked, turned the radio off and I could hear a faint noise when I tried to open windows so I hit the rear window with flat of my hand and still not good until I started the engine ( a bit extra voltage ) and then the window I had hit went down, had to hit the other window a few times with the flat of hand and it went down as well, sprayed the runners on rear windows liberally with dry silicon and ran them up and down a few times - everything good.
My point is that because of lack of regular use the rear windows can easily stick, and their is very little indication when you press the buttons that window is trying to open, the thing is that all the window motors have a current sensing system, it is mainly to stop the window moving if it sees too much load ( like someones hand or head in the way ), there are no limit switches on the window movement but when window is fully up or down the load sensing cuts the power and stops motor, if window motor sees too much load on the way up it will stop and then reverse if it sees too much load, which is why when you have dirty runners the window will sometimes try to go up but will reverse and go back down if it sees too much load. If windows are stuck in runners in up position the load sensing will cut motor out before they can move.
You may have to resort to my window thumping and running the engine while trying to move the windows and then get some silicon lube on them ( please do not use standard WD40 on them, as it will inevitably attract dirt and stick them even more firmly ), WD do make a silicon lube though.
https://wd40.co.uk/specialist/high-performance-silicone-lubricant/
3 in 1 also make a silicon spray, it was on special today at Aldi so I grabbed a couple of cans, long way to come from South Africa to Aldi in UK though.....
Sage advice indeed - may check this out on my car too - I just blagged a tin of Siroflex Silicone Spray for lubricating hinges and door mechanisms from someone in the trade after he came out to look at the faulty lock on my front door - will this stuff be ok to use on the runners?
Thanks.
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Had exactly the same problem with the rear windows. As Culzean says, it's down to lack of regular use.
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Thanks for all the feedback :-).
I do suspect it may be the whole "lack of use" thing, on the basis that the vehicle had a previous owner who didnt have kids etc, drove it 20km return per day to and from her office, and that was about it. (its a 2013 with around 40000km on the clock). Will try the "banging the glass" method and revert.
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long way to come from South Africa to Aldi in UK though.....
Maybe i can order a few things and pay you for the items and courier fees, and you dispatch from the UK to SA for me ?
Theres a few Jazz specific items i cant seem to find in SA.
I'll make all payments to you in advance of course :)
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I've had this problem with my Jazz-- window glass stuck, fixed by using a hand each side ( one inside, one outside) to try and push glass down while the wife presses the down button. Of course, I used my wife not yours to press the button, but you get the idea. Once the glass unstuck and moved, the motor did the rest. Nobody ever sat in the back of my Jazz , so the rear windows were never opened.
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I have had this problem as well and ever since I have exercised the windows regularly and the problem has never returned.
Vic.
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I have wind down rear windows, but I know that on the odd occasions I wind them down (to wash round the edges), they are tight to get moving.
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My passenger front window is having problems closing. Opening is ok. Even if I try the driver's side control is still the same. Today it didn't even closed. Typical when I got to my mechanic, it worked perfectly!
It's been happening the last six months. All the other windows are working fine. Any ideas?
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My passenger front window is having problems closing. Opening is ok. Even if I try the driver's side control is still the same. Today it didn't even closed. Typical when I got to my mechanic, it worked perfectly!
It's been happening the last six months. All the other windows are working fine. Any ideas?
Have you tried cleaning out the guides and a bit of silicone spray ( not standard WD40 which will result in making it all gummy and dirty - WD40 never totally dries it goes sticky and attracts dirt ). I prefer a dry silicone spray like Tableau Dry Lube. WD-40 also make a dry PTFE spray which should be OK, or you could use GT-85 which contains PTFE.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Tableau-Dry-Silicone-Lubricant-Spray/dp/B001CMY93E
https://www.amazon.co.uk/WD-40-Specialist-Lubricant-PTFE-400ml/dp/B006UCJ4Z4/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_121_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=QGZ9W3B9JZ58FVYEGQ4E
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Hi, I have the same issue with rear left window on newly bought Jazz. The rear Right also was not working, but than started working on its own.
I can hear some clicking noise - I suppose the relay is actually working and its getting power.
I soaked it in water when washing the car for a long time from outside and cleaned all the crust, with engine on tried to get it down by using my palms and try to wiggle it/push it down and other person pressing the button- still doesn't moves...
What's the solution for this if the window is completely closed and i believe stuck as the car hadn't been really used for like 3years before I got it?
I do have a silicone spray, shall I try to get it inside on all sides of the window?
What other options there are?
I believe my case is pretty bad as I have tried to get it open but so far haven't been able to..
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Hello all.
I hope its ok to resurrect this old thread.
I have just bought a 12 plate EXL-T and so pleased with it after looking for some time to find one in this spec and my target price range.
BUT: both rear power windows refuse to move. Previous owner didn't use them. I hear a click in each rear door when the switch is depressed so I assume they have stuck though non-use as per the experience of other posters on this thread. Front windows work ok. (I am aware of the switch on the driver's door which locks/unlocks all 3 passenger windows.)
I have followed the advice given earlier in this thread: trying silicone spray into the gaps between windows and trim; slamming the doors/hitting the window with the flat of my hand and then trying to push down the window whilst switch is operated (and engine running)....but to no avail.
I wondered if anyone had any further advice before I admit defeat and go to a garage?
Grateful for any help.
Cheers.
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Looks as though you've tried the obvious things.
The fact that you can hear a clicking sound suggests something is trying to work. Does the interior light also dim (engine off) when you operate the switch? If yes, that would also suggest a current is being drawn.
Before resorting to a garage I would try something like this to get a good purchase on the window glass whilst operating the switch. Maybe one either side with the door open and an assistant operating the switch?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/double-cup-suction-lifter/6299P?tc=NT9&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI06S6-ZrR6QIVo4BQBh1dBwEsEAQYASABEgJL1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hope you get it sorted (cheaply).
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Looks as though you've tried the obvious things.
The fact that you can hear a clicking sound suggests something is trying to work. Does the interior light also dim (engine off) when you operate the switch? If yes, that would also suggest a current is being drawn.
Before resorting to a garage I would try something like this to get a good purchase on the window glass whilst operating the switch. Maybe one either side with the door open and an assistant operating the switch?
https://www.screwfix.com/p/double-cup-suction-lifter/6299P?tc=NT9&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI06S6-ZrR6QIVo4BQBh1dBwEsEAQYASABEgJL1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hope you get it sorted (cheaply).
Good post - that suction device looks just the job to apply a bit of force to window, you can actually hear the engine slow down momentarily sometimes if you operate the windows. My wife does not use her rear windows very often and despite the fact I tell here she should operate them every so often I doubt she does it - I have had to resort to pushing windows sometimes, as OP said having the engine running while operating the windows helps, but the window control electronic will only pass so much current before it cuts out as the windows don't have limit switches they rely on motor stalling to stop at top and bottom.
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Thank you both for your replies and advice. I shall try the suction devices and report progress.
Very grateful.
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What I suggest..... using a friend to open and slam the door shut at the same time as you press down on the window down button. Do not hold the button down too long ( only as the door slams shut) as it may have a thermal fuse/trip/device, which will stop it working for a suitable period. Your windows have friction, stiction or just seized. The shock and stress of the door slamming may break and free the mechanism. then clean and polish as much of the glass edge as you can (mr sheen as an example) where the ‘runners’ are.