Hi SuperCNJ I've just had a quick look at the videos on Youtube and as you say it should be straight forward. However my experience is the threads are rusted to the nuts and the edges of the nuts round off (or the socket hole within the end of the ball joint round off. If this is not the case a very easy job but otherwise allow a bit of time for it. Sawing, grinding and burning the bits off have been my experience in the past. look forward to hearing how it went.
Here's my tips for doing these and similar jobs on the suspension, on the driveway.
Arm yourself with a few useful tools, you may have some or all of them already - wire brush, small 6" stillsons or footprint type grips, six point sockets and a ½" ratchet, Plusgas type penetrating oil, and one of those small, upright, high temperature, pencil flame butane torches they sell for chefs to frizzle their creme brulees.
Before you start, wire brush the exposed threads thoroughly, it will help stop the nut binding up as it comes off.
Spray with penetrating oil and leave it for 10 minutes to do it's job. No WD40, it's crap.
Forget the allen or torx socket in the end of the thread, it will probably not be good enough to hold against the rusted nut. Hold the shaft on the other side with the small stillsons, wedged between the ARB and the droplink. Don't worry about damaging the rubbers, remember that you are throwing this bit away. Some droplinks have spanner flats here, so you could use a suitable spanner.
Using a six point socket and a ratchet, try the nuts. If they come off, great. If not, heat the nut up with the torch, you should be able to get a M10/M12 nut cherry red with a bit of persistence. Then,
immediately go at it with the socket and ratchet. It should come off easily.
You will find that a bigger plumber's blowtorch will not get the nuts as hot, but it's worth a try if that's all you have. You can't beat a bit of heat!