Author Topic: The infamous EGR valve problem (Honda Jazz 2002-2008)  (Read 206534 times)

guest1837

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #45 on: January 25, 2011, 06:46:35 PM »
have you attempted to clean it out? will save you bucks if you do it OK! ;)

not yet as its covered under warranty from the dealer (not honda)  I bought it from. Was hoping to get a reasonable priced replacement to try and ensure it fixes it for the long haul.

guest1828

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #46 on: January 25, 2011, 07:48:40 PM »
well, let the dealer pay for it if it's under warranty...is he asking for money from you?

guest1837

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #47 on: January 25, 2011, 08:15:07 PM »
well, let the dealer pay for it if it's under warranty...is he asking for money from you?

No is just that its a small car dealership and I cant see him being keen on honda dealer prices!
Looks like similar EGR valves are going on ebay for £40 to £80.

 

guest1828

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #48 on: January 25, 2011, 09:01:23 PM »
let him have a chance to either clean it out, or replace...I guess he'd opt out of the latter knowing small dealer's, but at least he should put it right for you! Keep us posted!

btw, don't feel sorry for him, he earns enough!  ;)

guest1898

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #49 on: February 02, 2011, 02:15:53 AM »
To overcome this problem I simply fabricated a metal plate to fit below the EGR valve thus resolving three issues:
1.)This method does not create a Check Engine Light fault as the car sees all electrical circuits are present.
2.) You will experience smoother performance as dirty hot air is no longer being pumped into the intake manifold, stupid idea really, as you want nice cold clean air for combustion.
3.) You should get more torque, and never have to worry about maintaining the EGR Vlave solenoid.

guest1390

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #50 on: February 22, 2011, 01:46:25 PM »
i took off the egr valve using a 12mm spanner.it has 2 holes in it.one for intake and the other for the "exhaust".the intake hole is just a hole,but the other is covered by the head of the actual moving component of the valve.i sprayed some "gum cutter,carb cleaner-pcv"(that is the products name)into the intake hole until it was filled with liquid and then left the valve upside for a couple of minutes to let the carb cleaner do it's job,and then i poored out the liquid(which you will see that it turned brown from the disolved gum that is inside).i did this for several times,i also banged the egr valve,not too hard,on the working bench.when i did that i heard some movement in the valve,which means that the moving components are freed.you can also take a flat headed screwdriver and pull the moving component whos "head" is on top of the exhaust hole towards you and spray some more in there.after doing all of this my car runs much better and responds quicker to acceleration.
i hope this helps

Have checked out the valve as you described above & the car is fine now. £8.50 for a gasket seems a bit steep to me having worked in the toolmaking industry for some years, but a tin of carb cleaner + gasket is a whole lot better than £253  for a new EGR Valve :o

guest1844

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #51 on: March 07, 2011, 10:00:01 PM »
Quote
2.) You will experience smoother performance as dirty hot air is no longer being pumped into the intake manifold, stupid idea really, as you want nice cold clean air for combustion.

It's done for emissions. At light load, you recirculate exhaust for the following reasons:
1. It bulks up the hot gas in the cylinder to reduce the max temp, reducing NOx production. NOx (Oxides of nitrogen) gives cities that brown haze on sunny days (the sunlight reacts with it).
2. It slightly helps the valves as they are not dealing with quite so hot exhaust. The total energy is the same as you have more cooler gas rather than a little hot gas (re Boyles law)
3. It slightly reduces throttling losses, as at light loads you're pulling a partial vacuum on the inlet which is a waste of energy (a marginal benefit).

At full power the valve has to shut as you want max clean air to burn with the fuel.

BTW, diesels have more problems with NOx as they are un-throttled engines so always burn lean at light load - the high residual oxygen at light loads produces much more NOx. A diesel's EGR valve is to reduce the oxygen content at light load. Again, obviously at full load you want it shut as you want all the oxygen possible for power, and the NOx problem reduces as the oxygen is used on the fuel, not post-burn oxidation of nitrogen. If you frig out a diesels EGR it'll prob throw the engine light as its a no-no. I thought it would on a petrol as well, but evidently not.

RichardA

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #52 on: March 07, 2011, 10:21:48 PM »
NOx is partly why diesel cars are not very popular in the US. US legislation is based on NOx emissions where else in the EU it's more CO2.

guest2035

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #53 on: April 08, 2011, 10:48:10 PM »
Hello all,

I'm new to this forum. We had the judder problem with our 1.4 petrol manual Jazz. Following the advice from here I took off the EGR today and cleaned the valve and its socket with a toothbrush and meths. Replaced it and the car now runs fine - thanks!

guest2019

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #54 on: April 23, 2011, 11:43:24 PM »
Hi guys,

Cleaned my EGR valve today which made no difference and i bought a 2nd hand EGR valve which had very low 15,XXX on it and still didn't fixed the problem  :(  .... what could it be? i just wanna fix this problem asap.


Regards,
John.

DV

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #55 on: April 24, 2011, 05:20:55 PM »
What did you use to clean the EGR valve?
Have you tried to disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes?

guest2019

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #56 on: April 24, 2011, 11:37:13 PM »
What did you use to clean the EGR valve?
Have you tried to disconnect the battery for about 5 minutes?

Pretty much the carby cleaner spray and yank out and twist the short stem a few times.. poke and scrape it with a brush and phillips head to break down the gunk inside it. Were you meant to reset the ECU afterwards? I'll give that a try then and get back to you guys.

Thanks,

John.
----- Double Post Prevention - new post below: 1303694332 -----
Resetted ECU and took it for a drive and made no difference.. so most likely a mechanical fault somewhere in the gearbox i assume.. clutch starter?

DV

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #57 on: April 25, 2011, 06:50:04 AM »
Quote
Pretty much the carby cleaner spray and yank out and twist the short stem a few times.. poke and scrape it with a brush and phillips head to break down the gunk inside it. Were you meant to reset the ECU afterwards?

Well, yes I thought the same, carb cleaner and a good cleaning. Anyway I always disconnect the battery first before I remove any electrical component of the car (just in case).
You didn`t tell what is the symptom/problem with your car, if it doesn`t have that jerky running at the certain rev range (around 2000rpm) it may not be the EGR valve.
« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 08:58:04 AM by DV »

guest2019

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #58 on: April 25, 2011, 08:49:24 AM »
Quote
Pretty much the carby cleaner spray and yank out and twist the short stem a few times.. poke and scrape it with a brush and phillips head to break down the gunk inside it. Were you meant to reset the ECU afterwards?

Well, yes I thought the same, carb cleaner and a good cleaning. Anyway I always disconnect the battery first before I remove any electrical component of the car (just in case).
You didn`t tell what is the symptom/problem with your car, if it doesn`t have that jerky running at the certain rev range (around 2000rpm) it maybe not the EGR valve.

Sorry about that DV, pretty much when your driving normally on D i.e. no matter what constant speed you travelling in say 60km speed limit, the revs will drop to 1500rpm and you feel the vibration.

Cheers.

DV

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #59 on: April 25, 2011, 09:01:46 AM »
When the EGR valve faulty the jerky running comes up at any gear when you hold the accelerator pedal around 2000 rpm, does not matter what gear you are in. In your case probably something else the problem.
Have you changed the gearbox oil to the new recommended one?

Quote
Honda released a Worldwide product update (PDU) that informed all dealers, and service depots to use only Honda CVT-F (Honda part number (4 litres) 0826099904HE) in all CVT transmissions in Insight, Civic IMA, HRV, and JAZZ.[/guote]

More info here: http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=94.0
« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 09:06:57 AM by DV »

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