Author Topic: The infamous EGR valve problem (Honda Jazz 2002-2008)  (Read 202942 times)

guest2916

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #105 on: April 08, 2013, 09:00:55 AM »
This is the exact same story guys for me . I know nothing about cars and i mean nothing but bought the same battery from euro parts for 39.99 p&p free. Fitted witin 10 minutes car runs better smoother and for some reason allso better mpg.

Sent from my GT-I9100 using Tapatalk 2

JazzyB

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #106 on: April 08, 2013, 04:48:07 PM »
Could be that everythings been reset....................

guest4029

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #107 on: April 29, 2013, 09:56:40 PM »
Well i have join EGR valve problem crew a 2002 model after spending 1000s pounds modifying my Jazz-bit, and start to get a jerky feeling from the engine area. At first i have spent a lot money diagnose the problem, but no mechanic was able to tell me the issue i was experiencing as no codes was showing up.

Eventually in a few months later the engine management light showed didnt know whether to feel good or unhappy about this light.

Nevertheless a trip to my trustworthy acha people, diagnose it was the EGR valve malfunctioning and blocked with carbon causing it stick open.

They cleaned it out and said it was a temporary job and soon or later needed to fit a new, only supplied from reliable Honda costing 250 sterlings. You see like most motorist here do not want to spend that kind a of cash on a small unit that you wont see unless you lift the hood. so is it worth it? I rather spent it on some escorts to be honest. 8)

Welll the things on certain vehicles the EGR is vital to keep the car running smooth but if its blocked it caused alot a fumes in diesel, or juddering in the Jazz, or it could cut out at junction (highly dangerous) and you keep stalling and re-starting the engine causing the battery to go flat, This the worst scenario, ive encountered with a EGR valves in my work vans. Back to my the point.

On the Jazz is a connector to the EGR, (easy to locate, a black cylinder to the left)  if you unplug it it  will run smooth again but you will sacrifice fuel efficiency around 36mpg. showing on my dash. if you plug it in again the kangaroo will jump back again.

I have unplug it for 6 months straight not a big drop to the fuel and i have use it every day for work and going around, at least its not annoying and jerking in the traffic. 
Its a Jazz it was never meant to be quick, but i have decided its better to get a new valve fiitted as i got bored with the Escorts :o

guest4341

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #108 on: October 25, 2013, 05:36:42 PM »
Have been reading the forum after searching on the web for a resolution to this problem.  I have a 2003 SE 1.4 CVT and after having the car in for a gear box oil change I found the car was a bit jerky when pulling away - thought maybe it was because the CVT fluid had been changed.  So as it got worse over the next few days I noticed the engine management light had come on.  Searching online got me to this site and reading this thread.  To cut a long story short I had a mate check the codes and they pointed to EGR as expected.  So I replaced the EGR but it made no difference whatsoever.  I am now looking for pointers as to what else it could be.  The codes were - P0300/P0301/P0303/1491.  The car is pretty much undrivable as it stands.

guest4078

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #109 on: October 25, 2013, 11:37:01 PM »
Bad luck.
If all is ok with the new egr valve and it is all clean and tidy, then it is not lifting high enough when the control unit asks it to move.
Is new egr ok? Was it new or 'new' to you. Check the lines to egr, check wiring of egr to ecm
You could try cleaning the throttle body, manifold and fuelling system etc. 02 sensor(s)

Check if plugs are ok, coil pack etc.
Valves, check and adjust?

P0300- random / multiple misfire detected.
P0031- Cylinder 1 misfiring
P0303- cylinder 3 misfiring
P1491- "EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected"

guest2688

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #110 on: October 28, 2013, 12:43:11 PM »
I have 2004 Honda Jazz 1.4SE model. If I stall the engine, it restarts fine, but when I take my foot off the accelerator, the engine dies on me!The problem does not occur if I drive on beyond 150 metres or so, but really annoying if I have to stop at traffic lights or at a junction within that distance (150 metres or so), after I have stalled. I replced the battery with a Honda dealer supplied battery, but it was just a waste of money. Got the car connected to analyse engine problem at a few garages, but did not give any error codes. Anybody who could help please. Thank you.

guest4341

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #111 on: October 29, 2013, 01:44:49 PM »
Hi Interlock,

Thanks for your input - it was the spark plugs after all.  I've never ever experienced so much trouble with spark plugs - another lesson learned.

I don't know why the P1491- "EGR Valve Lift Insufficient Detected" code appeared.  I have now removed the new EGR Valve and replaced it with the old one - seems okay so will see if the code appears again...

Thanks again,
Mikeb

guest2688

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #112 on: October 29, 2013, 04:36:48 PM »
I have 2004 Honda Jazz 1.4SE model. If I stall the engine, it restarts fine, but when I take my foot off the accelerator, the engine dies on me!The problem does not occur if I drive on beyond 150 metres or so, but really annoying if I have to stop at traffic lights or at a junction within that distance (150 metres or so), after I have stalled. I replced the battery with a Honda dealer supplied battery, but it was just a waste of money. Got the car connected to analyse engine problem at a few garages, but did not give any error codes. Anybody who could help please. Thank you.

Just yesterday I took the above mentioned car to a local garage, and i was told that the alternator is overcharging and hence i may need a new alternator - will cost around £300. Any suggestions?

guest4348

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #113 on: November 25, 2013, 01:23:35 PM »
I have a 03 1.4 jazz and have this juddering when the engine is between 1500 - 2000 revs.

The battery was replaced approx 8 weeks ago.  Replacement battery is slightly bigger than the original battery and the problems seem to have started from there.  Honda dealer claims it is a problem with the wiring (which has been extended due to the larger battery and terminals on the other side), although I've had it checked by an auto-electrician who has given the wiring the all clear.

I've had the EGR valve cleaned but it made no difference.

I have noticed that the juddering is worst when the engine is cold, once its been running for about 30 minutes the juddering stops.  Could it be a problem with a temperature guage?

Thoughts?

guest4078

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #114 on: November 26, 2013, 12:04:09 AM »
Hi, I guess you mean a misfire when you say juddering, rather than transmission etc.
I don't quite get the battery thing, why would that cause a limited rev range misfire.
I would try the easy/cheapish bits first, so:
fuel pump/pipes/tank venting ok? throttle body/ injectors ok/ vacuum leak/ manifold/ cat blocked? plugs/ coils? crankcase ventilation hose? you said you have had the egr valve cleaned, was it done properly/ is the solenoid ok?

guest4348

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #115 on: November 27, 2013, 05:19:14 PM »
Thanks for your response, i'll pass your suggestions on to my mechanically minded contacts (cos i dont have a clue).

Juddering is prob the best way to describe it - the car shakes and to stop it i dip the clutch. 

guest4348

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #116 on: November 28, 2013, 11:08:13 AM »
Report from Diagnostic test below.  Dont know whether this helps anyone to diagnose car fault.


Code P1519: IACV fault
Checked wiring to IACV and ECM: wiring OK.
Removed IACU - shaft is free.
Required more diagnostic time to determine fault, time not granted: Rebuilt.


Honda wanted another £195 on top of the £78 for the diagnostic test to try to determine the fault, thought charge was excessive so didnt authorise further time.

guest4078

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #117 on: November 28, 2013, 11:15:33 PM »
Ok, well what you have there is:
Code P1519: IACV fault, which reads as Idle Air Control Valve wiring circuit fault. A bit beyond me!
So the garage have checked the unit which I suppose includes the solenoid for an open or dead short out?
I think you might be getting into throttle body replacement etc. if it is all u/s so can you find another garage that could do the investigation at less than the cost of the Honda dealer?

You said in your op that some wiring had been extended and that an autoelectrician had checked the new battery cable as ok. Maybe he should check your other wiring, did they damage the loom when they did the wiring extension?
Also, google of P1519 also returns discussion of cam sensors on Bmw's? Is that wiring ok on your car?

honda-tech.com has a thread with pictures on cleaning an IVAC, which might help you.

DV

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #118 on: November 29, 2013, 06:51:46 AM »
Here is the troubleshooting process for that code P1519: link

ozjazzer

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Re: The infamous EGR valve problem
« Reply #119 on: December 08, 2013, 10:27:01 AM »
Please help  :o  I'm having an awful amount of trouble with my Honda Jazz 2003 GLi at the moment... it had been working great until getting a service about two years ago. It started chugging the next day when I filled it with fuel - so I suspected fuel problems. Eventually after weeks/months went by, the car went back to normal... that is, until the next service. The next day after the next service the same thing started happening. Eventually it settled back down, until the NEXT service when the same thing happened again. After many months it would settle back down to normal (until I'd forget about it and then go in for another service - doh!)

Fast forward to this happening five times after the last five services (not kidding - 5 times!) and three different mechanics later it happened the very next day after the service. Only this time the chugging is the worst it has ever been (and I'm telling you, sometimes it had been pretty bad bunny hopping) - especially on acceleration and on any incline... now it has started to stall - stalled on flat ground at 40km/hr.  Called the mechanic, he came out and put his electronic gadget on - saying it was the crank position sensor. $180 later he says it is working perfectly. The car started chugging again before I even returned home. Then stalled again a couple of days later, then on the weekend it stalled 5 times Saturday and 4 times Sunday. Each time the malfunction light came on. I waited a few minutes and was able to drive it again (with the same chugging and loss of power as before). Sometimes it would drive normally on the open highway, but even then there'd still be some chugging after a while.

Now I'm concerned about taking the car to ANY car service centre as it's obviously something they are messing with during the service and now I have major malfunctions and not sure how to go about fixing it.  I really thought mechanics were supposed to know what they are doing - they seem to have no clue with my car - I would have been better off if I hadn't serviced it at all the last 2years.

220,000km on the clock and the car is an automatic.

Can anyone please help?

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