Author Topic: Door locks all seized.  (Read 7349 times)

guest7057

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Door locks all seized.
« on: August 07, 2017, 09:41:11 PM »
Hi,

The quality of the locks in the car are one of the issues that has hounded us for a while now. They have all been changed and are ready to be done again. This is not acceptable IMO and my question is regarding an alternative or some sort of solution. The ignition has been stripped and all the actuators have been removed solving this issue but what can i do with the doors. Any help is much appreciated.

Alan.

Jocko

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2017, 09:47:55 PM »
My locks are fine, no issues at all. But there again, my car still under 100K. Some of the guys here will have advice, I'm sure.

guest1372

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2017, 10:11:45 PM »
Yeah, the individual tumblers in the drivers door lock have been known to wear out, you can buy replacements if you don't mind stripping the lock, or the Arthur Daley method of just removing the dodgy ones.  Adding remote locking can be done for £10 and 1/2 day of your time using the generic remote locking kits on eBay then there is no need for door keys.

If the issue is with the actuators then it may be related to the tailgate handle which can sometimes fail to return to it's rest position due to corrosion of it's bracket.  This will stop the central locking from firing.  Grease and a wiggle will sort that one.
--
TG

guest7057

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #3 on: August 09, 2017, 09:32:13 AM »
Hi,

Appreciate the replies, did not know about the remote locking kits. Going to look them up now.

Alan.

guest7154

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #4 on: September 26, 2017, 04:31:59 AM »
Yeah, the individual tumblers in the drivers door lock have been known to wear out, you can buy replacements if you don't mind stripping the lock, or the Arthur Daley method of just removing the dodgy ones.  Adding remote locking can be done for £10 and 1/2 day of your time using the generic remote locking kits on eBay then there is no need for door keys.

If the issue is with the actuators then it may be related to the tailgate handle which can sometimes fail to return to it's rest position due to corrosion of it's bracket.  This will stop the central locking from firing.  Grease and a wiggle will sort that one.
--
TG
Hi TG

The info on the central locking kits are quite interesting.
I have a 2005 Jazz with no central locking and I'd love to add this feature.

Can you just tell a bit more about it?

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guest1372

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #5 on: September 27, 2017, 05:22:03 PM »
I've cut/pasted this from a previous answer and just tidied up the description a bit.  If the central locking is working fine, and it's just the key barrel that is a bit faulty then this is probably the best way to manage the problem.  To update an S without c/l this will also work out fine.

The eBay keyless units are nearly all universal and can be set up to suit different cars at installation. Most of the wires can be ignored, e.g. you don't need it bibbing the horn, flashing the indicators and closing the windows so the simplest units are probably the best, and you won't need actuators either.

Using wires from the drivers door exterior key switch, the white wire is temporarily grounded to unlock, the white/red is temporarily grounded to lock the central locking, so follow the set up instruction in the kit for 'pulse low' or 'negative trigger'.
The generic remote locking kit connects to the loom from the drivers door that pass through the footwell area next to the fusebox. There is space to hide the receiver behind the panel to the right of the fusebox (which is where the original receiver would live).

The existing wiring is quite tight and you'll need to spend an hour with your head stuck in the footwell, but quite a few people have done this.

From drivers key switch mechanism and taken momentarily to ground (black):
White = Unlock
White/red = Lock
Quite a few choices to get permanent 12v and ground nearby.

http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual > wiring diagrams > power door lock system

- - -
Shouldn't need to take off the door panel, the wiring can be done from the footwell. The panel above the pedals is easy to remove (twist clip + 2 friction clips along front edge) and it might help to take out the fusebox cover (unclips) and the trim that surrounds it (screws + clip).  There's also a useful connector for the door wiring hidden by the trim around the bonnet release lever. 
The wiring diagrams from before will help you find one of the permanent 12v wires and you can use a bolt for the ground connection




- - -
The door wires for locks, windows and mirrors pass through the rubber grommet in the door jamb then down to a grey and blue connector in the footwell.  You should find a white/red and a white with silver grey blobs next to each other on the grey connector (circled in image).  You could trace these wires higher up and connect there if you prefer.

Remember leave a window open and to disconnect battery if you are going to start joining to these cables, there will be 12v present at all times as the driver's door keyswitch temporarily connects them to ground.
Power the unit via one of the existing fuses with a fusetap.
- - -
Kit wires  >>>  Car wires

Yellow & yellow/black & black   >>>   ground (0 volts), i.e. under a bolt
Red           >>>   permanent 12v via a fuse
White         >>>   white/red  (lock)
White/black   >>>   white (unlock)


Note that white does not connect to white. (although at least one kit has the lock & unlock buttons swapped over)



Just connect the red and black power wires first to test if it receives the signal from the remote.  If that seems OK, move on to the (un)locking.
Probably a good idea to make sure there is no exposed cores of the other spare wires able to contact anything so tape them up.
- - -
Looking at the car's horn and indicators / hazard light control circuit most of it is quite buried without removing further bits of trim, but the rear indicator lights cabling runs down the drivers side of the car and can be traced from the footwell.  The indicators take quite a lot of power (21w + 5w + 21w) x 2 = 94w so it's seems beneficial that the two brown wires from the kit are fairly thick.  You can connect one brown wire to the left hand indicators and the other brown wire to the right hand indicators, but they will need to be good connections to support the potential current draw.

The circuit diagram shows green/yellow for RH indicators and green/red for LH indicators, you could trace back the rear lighting cable bundle that runs along the drivers sill to find where the connections are made to the under dash fusebox. (It's also a junction box with connections on both sides). 

I'm not certain what the siren/horn connection will achieve, bibbing the horn when locking or unlocking is not much use.  If it's for a panic alarm that might be worth it.  You can hear the locks operate from quite a distance so that's all you really need to be sure it's working, if fact hearing the locks clunk is probably the best confirmation; they won't clunk if the tailgate is ajar for instance.
- - -


So, the indicators lights were connected on separate harness marked.
After connecting the brown wires from the kit, all working perfectly as expected!!

guest7154

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #6 on: September 27, 2017, 08:45:16 PM »
I've cut/pasted this from a previous answer and just tidied up the description a bit.  If the central locking is working fine, and it's just the key barrel that is a bit faulty then this is probably the best way to manage the problem.  To update an S without c/l this will also work out fine.

The eBay keyless units are nearly all universal and can be set up to suit different cars at installation. Most of the wires can be ignored, e.g. you don't need it bibbing the horn, flashing the indicators and closing the windows so the simplest units are probably the best, and you won't need actuators either.

Using wires from the drivers door exterior key switch, the white wire is temporarily grounded to unlock, the white/red is temporarily grounded to lock the central locking, so follow the set up instruction in the kit for 'pulse low' or 'negative trigger'.
The generic remote locking kit connects to the loom from the drivers door that pass through the footwell area next to the fusebox. There is space to hide the receiver behind the panel to the right of the fusebox (which is where the original receiver would live).

The existing wiring is quite tight and you'll need to spend an hour with your head stuck in the footwell, but quite a few people have done this.

From drivers key switch mechanism and taken momentarily to ground (black):
White = Unlock
White/red = Lock
Quite a few choices to get permanent 12v and ground nearby.

http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual > wiring diagrams > power door lock system

- - -
Shouldn't need to take off the door panel, the wiring can be done from the footwell. The panel above the pedals is easy to remove (twist clip + 2 friction clips along front edge) and it might help to take out the fusebox cover (unclips) and the trim that surrounds it (screws + clip).  There's also a useful connector for the door wiring hidden by the trim around the bonnet release lever. 
The wiring diagrams from before will help you find one of the permanent 12v wires and you can use a bolt for the ground connection




- - -
The door wires for locks, windows and mirrors pass through the rubber grommet in the door jamb then down to a grey and blue connector in the footwell.  You should find a white/red and a white with silver grey blobs next to each other on the grey connector (circled in image).  You could trace these wires higher up and connect there if you prefer.

Remember leave a window open and to disconnect battery if you are going to start joining to these cables, there will be 12v present at all times as the driver's door keyswitch temporarily connects them to ground.
Power the unit via one of the existing fuses with a fusetap.
- - -
Kit wires  >>>  Car wires

Yellow & yellow/black & black   >>>   ground (0 volts), i.e. under a bolt
Red           >>>   permanent 12v via a fuse
White         >>>   white/red  (lock)
White/black   >>>   white (unlock)


Note that white does not connect to white. (although at least one kit has the lock & unlock buttons swapped over)



Just connect the red and black power wires first to test if it receives the signal from the remote.  If that seems OK, move on to the (un)locking.
Probably a good idea to make sure there is no exposed cores of the other spare wires able to contact anything so tape them up.
- - -
Looking at the car's horn and indicators / hazard light control circuit most of it is quite buried without removing further bits of trim, but the rear indicator lights cabling runs down the drivers side of the car and can be traced from the footwell.  The indicators take quite a lot of power (21w + 5w + 21w) x 2 = 94w so it's seems beneficial that the two brown wires from the kit are fairly thick.  You can connect one brown wire to the left hand indicators and the other brown wire to the right hand indicators, but they will need to be good connections to support the potential current draw.

The circuit diagram shows green/yellow for RH indicators and green/red for LH indicators, you could trace back the rear lighting cable bundle that runs along the drivers sill to find where the connections are made to the under dash fusebox. (It's also a junction box with connections on both sides). 

I'm not certain what the siren/horn connection will achieve, bibbing the horn when locking or unlocking is not much use.  If it's for a panic alarm that might be worth it.  You can hear the locks operate from quite a distance so that's all you really need to be sure it's working, if fact hearing the locks clunk is probably the best confirmation; they won't clunk if the tailgate is ajar for instance.
- - -


So, the indicators lights were connected on separate harness marked.
After connecting the brown wires from the kit, all working perfectly as expected!!
You are a Gentleman and a Scholar

Thanks for the really detailed information, now even I feel like able to do it.


Awesomeness lives here... :)

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guest7154

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Re: Door locks all seized.
« Reply #7 on: October 15, 2017, 10:07:18 AM »
I have done it! 

I did not bother finding and tracing the indicator cables yet ( busy days), but the box is connected and works like a charm.


Thanks for all your help, especially TG

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