Author Topic: UK Honda Jazz Double Din Radio install inc. prices and correct part numbers  (Read 13757 times)

Gaffer

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OK, so I've finally gotten all the parts I need and installed my double-din head unit :D.

I thought I'd start off with the actual part numbers needed if you wanted to place orders via official UK Honda dealerships (they won't recognise any others on their systems) along with the current UK prices (all the part numbers using "0" are "zero" not "letter o"):

Double Din Fascia 08B00-TF0-510 40 + 10 delivery from eBay (this part is 95 from Honda!!!)
Comes with the extension lead that is needed for the airbag light to reach the new socket position (although this extension has it's own part number as well 08B00-TF0-6000-30 if you wanted to order it separately).




Double Din Cage 77255-TF0-000 17
This is needed to secure the weight of the fascia and headunit to the car as it has a screw hole that is needed for a retaining bolt. ***IMPORTANT*** you CANNOT re-use the existing single din cage. This is because the screw holes to secure it to the fascia are in completely different places. You therefore must get this specific part to go with the new fascia. I sourced mine from my local Honda dealership.

Honda to Din Aerial adapter CT27AA36 3 on eBay, 5 on amazon
Remember, you need FEMALE honda to MALE din, not the other way round, and many companies make these, all with their own part numbers....I've shown you the Connects2 version (although I got mine from xenons.biz on eBay and it didn't have a part number)......remember as long as you specify a female honda to male din, you'll be fine (or type "honda aerial din" into eBay search to get a full range of prices).

Connects2 Steering Wheel patch lead CTSHO003.2 35 eBay
This allows you to continue using your steering wheel controls with your new radio. Remember to specify which radio make as each company uses their own propriety jack so the seller needs this info to send you the correct one (for example, for Alpine it is CTALPINELEAD).

A double din headunit - I chose an Alpine to go with my speakers/sub, the CDE-W235BT for 154...more on this later.


Now, on to the harness itself - you have to do a few minor things to it, but it's fairly easy (click to expand for a better view):


OK, so firstly, the connects2 patch lead connects to the harness in the car (grey plug). If you compare this to the plug layout in the car, all leads are connected apart from the blue/white wire labelled "remote amp" - this wire isn't even wired up inside the Jazz, so you can safely ignore it (i.e. the Jazz isn't wired up to supply it so in effect, no current or info will be going down it when plugged together). I clipped the bullet plug off this to re-use on later on (see below).
Also, the Jazz itself provides a ground to the illumination (pin 1) and info from the MICU (i.e. the anti-theft code for the OEM radio at pin 3), neither of which are wired on the Connects2 side, so they are redundant. The following pictures make this easier to understand.

UK Jazz Audio Harness diagram:


Connects2 Harness for the Honda:




So the Honda is supplying a "negative/ground for the illumination" and a "MICU info" wire both of which aren't utilised by the Connects2 harness, and the Connects2 harness has a Blue/White "AmpOn" wire which isn't being used by the Honda (this isn't the AmpOn signal you'll need to tap into for a sub - THAT AmpOn wire should be supplied by the Headunit, so I'm not sure why the Connects2 included it here to be honest).

There are 2 more wires on the Connects2 harness that aren't needed on the Jazz which are the handbrake signal lead (solid green) and the speed pulse (used on OEM to change radio volume with speed, but not needed on most headunits - pink). Both of these are bulleted leads separate from the DIN plugs so I tucked them away after taping them as they weren't needed.

The other part of the Connects2 harness is the "business" end which is the steering wheel control unit and lead for your make of radio - mine is a 3.5mm jack that will plug neatly into the back of my Alpine (yours will vary depending on the make of your headunit).

Now on to the Radio/Headunit side of things.
The Alpine harness comes with standard ISO plugs which conveniently match the plugs on the Connects2 harness, so simply plug them together.
You'll also have some bullet connectors to connect together, you simply match the colours and connect their bullets (one yellow, one orange, one red).

With Alpine, you'll also have some wires that don't end in the ISO plug, but are "free standing".
A couple of these you won't need:

A pink/black wire (telephone mute - not needed for my headunit as it has that built in - only useful if you have your own handsfree system and want it to mute the radio when you receive a call). My headunit has this already so I concealed it in the harness after taping it up and ignored it.

A spare fly-out connection (red) for "ignition on" - this is basically an additional connection point which would be useful if you required an extra ACC+ve feed for something else in the car - I don't, so again, I ignored it.


...along with 2 leads you will need:

Blue/White "amp on" wire - This is the wire you need if you have a separate amp and wish it to turn on when the radio is turned on (connect it to the signal input of your amp).

A solid blue "Antenna Power" wire which is wired into the ISO plug. This isn't wired on the Connects2 harness side so you can snip it out as it won't be going to anything. Why? Well, you'll actually need it to power the radio antenna.
As you can see from the harness picture above, the Honda aerial adapter lead (CT27AA36) has the standard ISO plug PLUS a solid blue lead, which is needed to power the antenna's amplifier in the Jazz. Without this being powered, you'll get reception but it'll be worse than with it's amp powered up.
Conveniently, that solid blue "antenna power" wire from the headunit does exactly that. It provides 12V when you are listening to the radio and 0V when you switch to CD or USB/iPod playback. Neat eh? This means the aerial amp gets powered only when needed (when listening to AM/FM). I simply connected them up with bullet plugs and was good to go (although it was a tight fit with the phono's and mic lead as well).

So with the harness all connected up, it was time to install the headunit.
Firstly, you have to remove the plastic panel beneath the heater controls to get to a screw/bolt that you need to unscrew to release the radio from the car (it's screwed into the cage remember - this is why you need a new cage for the double-din fascia, they have a hole in the bottom that allows this bolt to secure the fascia to the car and take the weight of the radio).
A diagram tells a thousand words as they say:


Once the OEM radio is removed, remove these screws from BOTH sides of the existing cage in order to screw your new cage onto your new fascia:


You'll end up with 4 black philips head screws to screw the new cage to the new fascia and 4 silver philips head screws to secure that cage to your new radio - or alternatively use the metal "basket" that comes with your headunit.

Now unscrew your hazard button/light from the original fascia and put this into the new one, along with the heater grills (reusing the same screws).
The new double-din fascia comes with it's own Airbag Light so you won't need to transfer that. You'll end up with something like this:



Install the headunit  and plug it all in. I also needed to plug in my phono cable to my sub/amp, along with the mic for the handsfree.
This was a PIA but I finally managed to do it and place it in a good position (pointed towards me and run round the A-pillar, behind the mirror control buttons and through the dash to the radio):


Just be careful not to let the thin mic wire interfere with and mechanical components (when routing it over the steering wheel for instance).

As others have noticed when doing this install, you won't be able to get the bezel that comes with your headunit to fit in place, so you'll need to make your own to complete the look:


Finally, here it is, all installed :):


I chose the Alpine as:

* it matched my existing 6 speaker + sub combo - all Alpine :)
* it allows AAC playback meaning I don't have to convert my music when transferring from iTunes to a USB stick
* full iPod/iPhone control
* handsfree built in
* it had multi-illumination meaning I could choose orange to match the dash (not all Alpines have this)
* it sounds great and is damned cheap to boot

I have mine set to cut off any frequency below 80Hz from going to the main speakers - meaning they'll only get highbass/mids/treble
The sub then gets only 80Hz or below to handle the rest of the frequencies. I tried with a 120Hz cutoff (the Alpine does a range of cutoffs from 60-160Hz using 12dB/Oct slopes) but felt this way sounded better in my car.

Also, it looks great at night when colour matched :D (can't tell in the photo but the LCD matches the MFD in the dash quite well):




So that's it folks - how to change from OEM to after market double din and still retain use of steering wheel controls.
Here is a summary of the part numbers needed again along with approximate total costs:


Summary

Double Din Fascia 08B00-TF0-510 (comes with airbag extension lead 08B00-TF0-6000-30) ~50
Double Din Cage 77255-TF0-000 ~17
Honda to Din Aerial adapter CT27AA36 ~3
Connects2 Steering Wheel patch lead CTSHO003.2 ~35
...and a double din headunit of your choice ~varies
...with some material for the bezel if you want a better cosmetic look (factory ones won't fit)


Good luck ;)

EDIT: Pictures re-uploaded. If they keep going down, you can also view them @ gafferlicious.com/jazz.html
« Last Edit: May 21, 2018, 04:05:40 AM by Gaffer »
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lindylou

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Re: UK Honda Jazz Double Din Radio install inc. prices and correct part numbers
« Reply #1 on: September 08, 2013, 06:07:43 PM »
Damn good tut that gaffer, well done. 8) My 19 yr old son has his eyes set on our jazz and he says that will be his first mod!!....(rickyd on avf ;))

alanleech

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This is a great guide and has inspired me to do the same in a new Jazz used as an instructors car. In your guide many of the pictures are missing are you able to reload or post?


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sforsyth

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This is an amazing set of instructions. YouTube has got videos, but only the for the RHD Jazz. Chinese manufacturers don't give instructions at all. Please, please, please post the rest of the pictures.

tgo

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Good post but only half the pictures load.

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