Post by: Jocko on August 07, 2018, 12:54:56 PM
There is certainly no evidence of piston slap, power seems perfectly adequate, and fuel consumption is definitely fine. With over 105K miles on the clock, I am not too worried. A change to semi synthetic or non synthetic oil may make a difference, but I am concerned that would impact on mpg.
I think I will just carry on as normal and keep checking the oil regularly.
Post by: VicW on August 07, 2018, 01:03:00 PM
Vic.
Post by: culzean on August 07, 2018, 06:00:29 PM
Post by: Jocko on August 07, 2018, 06:35:56 PM
Post by: John Ratsey on August 07, 2018, 06:47:15 PM
Post by: culzean on August 07, 2018, 07:40:44 PM
Castrol don't recommend Magnatec for the Jazz. They actually recommend Edge 0W-30. Opie Oils come up with both Edge 5W-30 and Magnatec, but the Magnatec they recommend is 10W-40.
I used 5-30 for years now, ultra - thin oil is promoted as fuel saving but I prefer to use not-so-thin oils thank you. My motorbike with its highly stressed performance engine uses 10W40 wet-clutch friendly Castrol. There is no mystery about oil and pretty much every engine will run on a range of viscosities - I am still not sure that ultra thin oils have not sacrificed protection for MPG....
Post by: Jocko on August 07, 2018, 08:09:41 PM
Post by: culzean on August 07, 2018, 08:24:44 PM
I am a bit in the same mind. I prefer 5W-30 since my engine has done so many miles, but 0W-30 has the same viscosity as 5W-30 at normal engine operating temperature so should perform the same.
Maybe, but to take the oil from 0 to 30 needs more viscosity modifiers than if the base oil is 5 or 10 to start with - and viscosity modifiers are the things that get broken down first as oil is used. And with UK moderate climate where the lowest normal temperature in winter is -5 degC why do we need really thin oils except to save the final 0.001% of carbon emissions,
https://commercial.lubrizoladditives360.com/vm-series-part-2/
thinner oils leave rotating and sliding surfaces more exposed to scuffing, it is a fine balance with really thin oils, I prefer a bit more safety margin ...........
Post by: Jocko on August 19, 2018, 02:40:03 PM
Post by: degzi on August 30, 2018, 10:39:33 PM
I Always use cheap supermarket fully synthetics or the euro car parts oils.
Never never never halfords oil, terrible stuff. It breaks down and gives me noisy tappets within 3 months of use. Oh and I change oil at end of autumn so I have good quality oil in for winter cold starts then generally change it again about spring time.
Post by: Jocko on August 31, 2018, 06:53:58 AM
I too use Motor Factor oil. It is what most small, independent garages use. Last change and this next change I am using Comma X-Tech 5W-30 fully synthetic. My oil change is about six weeks overdue but I have only just done 10,000 miles since it was last changed. I know it is no guarantee of lubrication qualities but it is still clean and hazelnut brown.
The car has now done 106,000 miles.
Post by: culzean on August 31, 2018, 09:18:07 AM
I know it is no guarantee of lubrication qualities but it is still clean and hazelnut brown.
The car has now done 106,000 miles.
When checking oil I usually get some off dipstick between thumb and finger and rub them together, if it still feels slippery that's OK but if it starts to get sticky a bit of a danger sign IMHO. Mind you I do a fraction of the miles I used to do so changing once a year instead of two or three times a year means oil stays in sump longer but does less miles than it used to.
https://neptuneproducts.co.nz/engine-life-extended-by-2-simple-tests/
Post by: jazzway on August 31, 2018, 04:14:54 PM
I don’t believe in 0wxx oils either in our Dutch climate.
Post by: peteo48 on August 31, 2018, 04:28:15 PM
But am I right?
Post by: sparky Paul on August 31, 2018, 06:34:14 PM
Interested in the oil extraction through the dipstick method Jazzway. I've always felt that this can't be that satisfactory as it won't allow the muck at the bottom of the sump to drain out.
But am I right?
Quite the opposite in many cases. Most modern engines are designed to be emptied by the dipstick tube, they put the lowest point under the pipe. Some main dealer's workshops now use automatic extraction and refilling machines, they suck out the old oil and refill down the same pipe with the pre-programmed volume of fresh oil from a bulk drum, all without anyone coming into contact with the old oil.
I use a pump for most changes, then drop the sump every 4-5 changes. Get the oil hot, then vac it out immediately after switching the engine off. Compared to dropping out of the sump, I would say that the oil extractor removes more of the old oil, the fresh oil always looks sparkly clean after it has been circulated. Dropping it out of the bottom always seems to leave enough behind to stain the new oil.
It works really well with the i-DSI engine, not sure about the others. There are some engines where it doesn't work, my Galaxy had the 2.3 16V Ford engine in with balancer shafts in the sump. Baffles inside the sump prevented you getting the tube to the bottom.
Personally, I would recommend them. They work with the vast majority of modern engines, and anything which encourages you to change the oil more often can't be a bad thing... and the extractor pump makes the job a doddle.
Post by: peteo48 on August 31, 2018, 09:22:20 PM
Post by: jazzway on September 02, 2018, 11:14:04 PM
Interested in the oil extraction through the dipstick method Jazzway. I've always felt that this can't be that satisfactory as it won't allow the muck at the bottom of the sump to drain out.I made some photos of this first time, Pete.
But am I right?
And it is just like sparky Paul said, a very very easy DIY job, especially for oil changes in between services by the garage.
Btw, the amount of oil being changed without the oil filter was exact as in the manual stated.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180902/c38d17298fa0e19d4c792ae7c6ced74d.jpg)
Post by: Jocko on September 03, 2018, 06:41:49 AM
Post by: sparky Paul on September 03, 2018, 04:31:09 PM
If you were doing extra changes, the oil filter should last the specified interval anyway - and changing the oil mid interval should reduce the load on the filter a bit.
Post by: Jocko on September 03, 2018, 05:11:40 PM
Post by: culzean on September 03, 2018, 06:33:42 PM
Indeed Jocko, you still have to scrabble about to change the oil filter. That said, it certainly makes the job a lot easier and cleaner, with less risk of any spills or drips. It's very easy to empty the waste oil from mine into an empty oil container without any mess.
If you were doing extra changes, the oil filter should last the specified interval anyway - and changing the oil mid interval should reduce the load on the filter a bit.
I think Honda service departments have been using the dipstick sucker for many years, it would certainly explain why 2 to 3 year old cars we have bought from dealers with full Honda service history have had oil filters that have been rusty on the outside and look like original OEM ones, so even if the oil got changed ( ???) the filters certainly did not. My only doubt with the availability of this equipment is that some oil filters will rarely if ever get changed.
Having said that the oil change on Civic is a bit of a mare as mahoosive aluminium undertray with about 7 or 8 screws and the oil filter hidden in an angled 'tube' overlapping the fixed plastic undertray surround (only the end is showing) and I have to use a 14 sided oil filter socket to remove it, I also have to bash a hole in the bottom of filter with a screwdriver to get oil out of it because if you try to remove it without you get an armful of oil and a lot goes onto the fixed plastic undertray that you don't remove and runs around on it, I had to drill a couple of holes in the plastic undertray to let oil drain back out - on the Civic Diesel the oil filter was on top of engine looking at you when you opened the bonnet WTF !............
Thinking about getting one and changing the filter every second oil change....
Post by: sparky Paul on September 03, 2018, 07:18:23 PM
I've got the bigger Sealey TP69, it's more robust than the smaller one, and has done sterling service for many years without a bit of trouble. That said, I know someone with the smaller ball-shaped one, and it does the job just fine.
Post by: jazzway on September 03, 2018, 07:25:13 PM
I am thinking in investing in the Sealey one (about £40) so I can change the oil every six months and the filter every year. My son-in-law can get that job. It is not as if I do a huge annual mileage.That is how i do it. In spring i do it myself now and in October it is done together with a new oil filter (Honda) and the annual service at my brother-in-laws’s garage.
Our car does about 8,000/9,000 kilometers a year, btw. But there are daily short trips with the dogs in that kilometrage.
Post by: culzean on May 05, 2019, 01:26:05 PM
Much less hassle than getting the ramps and all the other kit out to do a drain, and I am happy to not disturb the drain plug. I hardly got my hands dirty with the Sealey.
Her indoors Jazz next up... good to know I can change the oil in about half an hour :)