No central locking radio or alarm

[Aaronjazz]

Jazz 2013 was sat for a while and battery went dead. Jump started but didn't work and realised the fuse on the terminal connector had gone. Swapped out the part and jump started the car and it's back up and running but the central locking, radio, alarm and interior light (door open light) aren't working any ideas?

[Jocko]

Welcome, Aaron. It sounds like it could be a fuse further down the line. Sometimes when a short takes out a fuse, it can take one out further up the chain. Check the small fuses are okay.

[sparky Paul]

Try F1 in the under dash fusebox.

[Aaronjazz]

I think I've pulled all the fuses and can't see a damaged one other than the first (backup) fuse which has gone but tried a new one and it made no difference!

[Kremmen]

It's easier to get a multimeter and use the external metal dots to perform a continuity test. No need to pull any fuses and disconnect systems that don't like being disconnected.

[Aaronjazz]

Ok I'll give it a go and see what I find out

[Aaronjazz]

Ok so used a multimeter and it was the 2nd fuse on the left that's covered by the backup fuse clip (10amp) and were back in action!! There is very little to explain this kind of thing on the net (central locking, radio and alarm) so hopefully this will help someone else in the future. 

[Jocko]

Well done. Perseverance pays off.

[Wawg29]

Ok so used a multimeter and it was the 2nd fuse on the left that's covered by the backup fuse clip (10amp) and were back in action!! There is very little to explain this kind of thing on the net (central locking, radio and alarm) so hopefully this will help someone else in the future. 


I’ve got a multimeter but no idea of how to use it to test my fuses. Can you explain what setting and how to do this please.

[richardfrost]

To test a fuse you are checking for continuity, i.e. has the fuse blown. To do this you need your multimeter set to measure resistance in the lowest range possible, in ohms of course. Some multimeters autorange so just setting it to resistance is all you need to do. Some older ones may need you to select the range in ohms. Just select the lowest.

First touch your probes together and the meter should show 0 ohms or as near as possible. This just to test your meter is wet up ok and the battery is good. Next touch your probes to opposite ends of the fuses and if you get a low reading, the fuse is good. If you get an infinite reading, the fuse is blown. Best practice is to remove the fuse to test it and place it on a non conductive surface. Don't test whilst holding the fuse in your hand as the human body conducts electricity.