Considering buying a Mk2....

[JazzMan2018]

Hi,

Currently have a Mk1 2005 CVT and looking at changing to a Mk2, 2013 CVT, SE Plus from a Dealer

Any pro's/cons of the Mk2 over the Mk1?. More modern design and better spec but anything to look out for?

Full service history and 12 months MOT

Mileage is high (112k), but looking at MOT history online, it did 72k in first 4 years then about 10k a year after that. 3 former owners

Any help/advice appreciated

Thanks

[madasafish]

As it's a CVT, check transmission oil colour by pulling out dipstick - right front... It should be red. Any signs of brown/not red and the oil has not been changed. Due every 25k..- yes I know it has a service history but some dealers cheat...

Front drop link bushes - wear and tear- clonks from suspension on potholes/speedhumps/reversing.

Engine - check engine oil is clean and not filthy black.

Honda oil filter used? Is it very dirty externally? If no and yes, may not have been changed.
Check air filter - is it white or very dirty.

Check tryes for cuts/all same make/not Chinese cheaps.
Check disks for scoring/rust - through alloys.
Check handbrake works ok and holds car.. requires regular maintenance.

Rust? unde rear ? Take a torch annd mat and grovel.
Check MOT advisories? https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/

Check shock absorbers for oil leaks - stains from leaks..

NO clonks from transmission/no whines/no funny noises/smooth changes.
No engine noises at all.

Check ABS and engine warning lights come on when you switch on ignition. If none seen, likely bulb failed or removed as there is a fault. Walk away job as no responsible seller will sell a car with such an obvious fault. (MOT fail).


Accident damage?
Check boot floor and sides not any ripples.
Check front inner wings for ripples.
Poor paint resprays outside.
Sign of filler.

Worn seats/carpets/ seats recline etc.
Magic seats work.

[Jocko]

As a Mk1 CVT owner, you will be pretty au fait with the Jazz. I don't think there is anything that the Mk1 does that the Mk2 doesn't. The Mk2 has better power steering as far as I am aware. The Mk2 will have the VTEC engine (assume your Mk1 is DSi equipped). So, as madasafish says, just check it out as you would any car you were viewing paying particular attention to the CVT fluid.

[chrisv]

Hi,
As I recall the mk.1 steering tended to wander all over the road, the mk.2 is much better but not perfect. Make sure tyre repair gunk is not out of date, should be a small bag of fittings to install it, you are supposed to remove the valve, Jack up the car insert the gunk, spin the wheel to spread the gunk then refit valve and inflate, there should be a Jack and 12 volt pump. I would pinch the spare wheel, jack and wheel brace plus the retaining bolt from your old car, if you cut a cross in the spare wheel carpet you'll  find the captive retaining  nut in place. There should be a short lead which allows you to connect an ipod or similar to the radio. The roller blind closing the boot has been replaced by a lift up bit of cardboard, rear lights are now leds which would be pricey to replace, headlamp bulbs are easy to change, I fitted higher output ones. All I can think of at the moment,
Good luck
Chris

[sparky Paul]

We have both models in our household, they are both great cars, here's how I see them compare.

There is very much familiar about the mk2, the main differences that jump out at you are the interior and the power steering. As Jocko says, the steering on the mk2 is streets ahead of the mk1, and it does make the car much nicer to drive. Mechanically, the cars are very similar, but the V-TEC engine feels gutless at low revs, and the change doesn't seem to have done very much for the MPG. Tax for the mk2 1.4 manual is a band lower than the mk1, about £20 saving, not sure how the CVT fares.

The interior is a bit of a mixed bag really. The overall effect is of a much more modern interior, the seats are more comfortable with better support, but the plusher fabrics used feel less hardwearing than in the mk1 - ours is showing wear at sub-60K miles, whilst the mk1 seats still look great at 170K+ miles. The dash in the mk2 looks more modern, but again the materials used feel lower quality and less robust than the mk1. I find the front legroom slightly less in the mk2, but rear legroom is still excellent. The boot is slightly narrower in the newer car.

Things like the retracting boot cover have disappeared, replaced with a flimsy, cheap feeling lift up flap that wouldn't be out of place in a 1980s Fiat. Also, the clever levers on the top of the front seats to move them forward from the rear are also gone. No spare wheel in our mk2.

The mk2 is undoubtedly a nicer car to drive, especially over long distances, but I don't think the interior will last as well as the mk1. It all smacks of a bit of cost cutting.

Just my two penn'orth.

[Jocko]

the clever levers on the top of the front seats to move them forward from the rear are also gone.

Don't have those on my car. Mind you, it is an S. Have to have a look in the manual.

[sparky Paul]

the clever levers on the top of the front seats to move them forward from the rear are also gone.

Don't have those on my car. Mind you, it is an S. Have to have a look in the manual.

I didn't know that Jocko, but I thought they were a very clever touch. When we first got the car, I wondered what they were until I twiddled from the back and the seat shot forwards.

[Jocko]

On some types, the seat can also be adjusted forward and backward using the lever on the side of the seat-back.
This is from page 124 of the manual (my bold). Obviously I don't have "some types".

[olduser1]

Good choice, as been said before at that age its all about codition.
Is the Jazz a local car to the dealer, if so they will know it - ask the service people.
I have a focus on tyres when buying used - do you recognise the make premium or rubbish make, do thy tyres match, is there aspare, plus jack tol kit.
Walk round the car every ding is £100 off the vehicles value.
Take the car for a30 in run around familiar roads
Is the asking £ good value compared to others.
Buying froma dealer you are protected the car must have HPI experian check dealers will not normally retail cat S or N there are 100 out there.
If you like it get it , all about the deal  - how much are you handing over for a younger model.

[culzean]

Good choice, as been said before at that age its all about codition.
Is the Jazz a local car to the dealer, if so they will know it - ask the service people.
I have a focus on tyres when buying used - do you recognise the make premium or rubbish make, do thy tyres match, is there aspare, plus jack tol kit.

I agree cheap or mismatched tyres can tell you a lot about how careful previous owner was, also condition of tyres ( are front ones scrubbed off at sides ) can tell you about driving style. If you can pull dipstick out and rub oil between thumb and finger it can also tell you a lot, what colour is it, does it feel slippery and smell 'clean' - or does it feel sticky and smell 'burnt'....  ( oil can go black fairly quickly in the best of engines,  shows it is doing its job, but stickiness and a burnt smell shows it hasn't been changed for a while ).   If there is no oil on dipstick to check that is a major worry,  especially on a Honda engine which rarely use any oil.

[JazzMan2018]

Thanks everyone for the really useful replies

Took the car for a test drive. Fantastic condition but sounded quote noisy - seemed to be coming from the back of the car

Transmission was fine and interior felt like anew car. Honda confirmed last 3 services were by a dealer...

Current MOT and tyres are pair of dunlops/bridgestones - can't remember which were front/rear!

Ant ideas what could be causing this? Maybe it's normal. Some people suggest wheel bearings but 'should' have been part of MOT

Cheers

[sparky Paul]

Took the car for a test drive. Fantastic condition but sounded quote noisy - seemed to be coming from the back of the car

...

Ant ideas what could be causing this? Maybe it's normal. Some people suggest wheel bearings but 'should' have been part of MOT

If it was a droning noise that increased with road speed, it could well be a rear wheel bearing. Pretty common failure.

They can be making a terrible noise well before the MOT tester spots it, a bad bearing usually feels absolutely fine when spun with the weight off it.

[JazzMan2018]

Thanks

Did seem to be from left hand side so maybe the bearing is on the way out

Do you know a rough cost to fix & should I get both rear ones done at the same time?

Cheers

[sparky Paul]

If I was paying, I would just get the obviously faulty one done first, some of the these wheel bearings fail early, some go on for ever. If you are using it as a bargaining point for buying the car, try to cover yourself for two bearings at main dealer prices - if one bearing is kaput, you won't hear the other side if it is just starting to rumble.

When you are negotiating, bear in mind that a private seller will struggle to sell a car with an obvious fault, so bargain very hard. If you are buying from a dealer, they should be happy to fix any faults before you accept the car.

Fixed price repair for a genuine rear wheel bearing at a Honda dealer is £277.

Costs at independent garages vary. You can buy a perfectly good aftermarket bearing/hub for around £30-£50, and shouldn't take more than an hour labour to fit, two if they are dragging the job out - probably another £40-£50/hour at a good independent. I wouldn't want to pay more than £100 all in, each side. Of course, there will be garages out there that will be happy to charge you more.