i-Shifters clunking noise fixed!!

[guest5669]

Right Iv'e just had the transmission oil changed in my i-Shift box and its made a world of difference to gearbox clunk, its much better hardly ever does it now. The cost was £30 I paid for the oil MTF3 also had a new water pump fitted runs like a dream guys.

[Ozzie]

I leave ours in automatic mode, and its clunk free. Is the clunking only on manual changing?

[applicationcen]

Mine has a 'clack' now and then. Seems fine though as no problems noted with any services.

[guest5079]

There is a definite clunk when the gearbox changes down from 2nd to 1st, especially locally where a right turn takes you up an incline, bears left and  then a right bend, that really brings the pains on. The rise is OK for 2nd providing you don't have to wait to do the right turn off one road to the other. The little blighter changes down to 1st and then reluctantly changes up to 2nd.
Can't say I have noticed any other time. I always assumed ( dangerous) that the difference tween 1st and 2nd was more than the difference between the other gears.
Also remember Moggy 1000's A30's Ford Anglias, Uncle Tom Cobley and all didn't have syncro between 1st and 2nd. Perhaps Mr Honda saved money here!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[guest5669]

I leave ours in automatic mode, and its clunk free. Is the clunking only on manual changing?

No in Auto-mode and paddle shift  when car slow's down changing into 1st gear.

[guest5669]

Mine has a 'clack' now and then. Seems fine though as no problems noted with any services.

Yes mine does the same its got 6k miles on clock shouldn't be clunking but she drives lovely except for this issue?

[stiggysawdust]

31800 miles EX i-Shift, 60 plate.
No clunking during any gear change whether in auto or manual or paddle shift. Smooth as silk and always has been.
A few years ago I had a Smart four four (same type of gearbox) which used to clunk going from second to first. Dealership (Mercedes) was unable to cure so this was one of the reasons I traded it in.

[GSX600FMAN]

I just tried out my 2010 1.4 (35000). Only just the slightest click and even then not always. I actually changed the oil in the gearbox a month after I got the car. At 5 years old oil I thought it best. Maybe next summer I will change the coolant and the brake fluid too. By the way I actually had a Ford Anglia ('C' reg) and lived at the top of a very steep hill and had to stop to put it into first (no syncromesh) to make it up  .
Look under the hood at the mechanism (robot) working the levers etc and get someone to select 1, Neutral and reverse and engage each time to see if you have a dry or worn joint. Offer some penetrating oil to the noisy section if you here it or grease ball joints there. Also the G/Box oil change will do no harm. Mine 'felt' better after I changed the oil. Obviously get the special correct oil ( Honda MTF 3) I had accidentally ordered the CVT version at first which is wrong for the i-Shift. Easy job if you have a hydraulic jack and a socket set with extension and a longish flexible tube to connect bottle. Drain off as much as you can by lowering car with that nearside (UK) wheel off. I used a syringe with a soft flexible tube to drain completely. The more you get out the more new oil will go in.

[guest5669]

I just tried out my 2010 1.4 (35000). Only just the slightest click and even then not always. I actually changed the oil in the gearbox a month after I got the car. At 5 years old oil I thought it best. Maybe next summer I will change the coolant and the brake fluid too. By the way I actually had a Ford Anglia ('C' reg) and lived at the top of a very steep hill and had to stop to put it into first (no syncromesh) to make it up  .
Look under the hood at the mechanism (robot) working the levers etc and get someone to select 1, Neutral and reverse and engage each time to see if you have a dry or worn joint. Offer some penetrating oil to the noisy section if you here it or grease ball joints there. Also the G/Box oil change will do no harm. Mine 'felt' better after I changed the oil. Obviously get the special correct oil ( Honda MTF 3) I had accidentally ordered the CVT version at first which is wrong for the i-Shift. Easy job if you have a hydraulic jack and a socket set with extension and a longish flexible tube to connect bottle. Drain off as much as you can by lowering car with that nearside (UK) wheel off. I used a syringe with a soft flexible tube to drain completely. The more you get out the more new oil will go in.

Great Write up and thanks gave me some good tips. I'll change the oil in gearbox.

[guest5079]

Given the concern experienced over the dreaded I shift clunk, I decided to do a Google. I came across this one: Living with Honda's Jazz I shift. click dunkvshondaishiftblogblogspot.com and the article is quite interesting given that said blogger covered 130,000 plus miles with the dreaded ( not my words) Ishift.  It also covers Michelin tyres which is quite positive. There are two blogs under the dunkvshonda name both worth a read.
I also noticed that I dropped a boo boo when my 2010 EX I shift was serviced by not paying the extra for fully synthetic oil given the difference in fuel consumption, which is claimed the different oil makes.
It would help if I turned the auto climate control off of course given that it is claimed to absorb some 10% of the fuel used which would push me up to the top 40's. I am afraid 70mph down the A30 doesn't help either. A lighter right foot, turn off the air con and use fully synthetic oil might make the magic 50+  BUT then being an old codger I like the constant temperature.
Whilst Club Jazz is very informative it is nice to see an 'independent' write up.

[guest5669]

Given the concern experienced over the dreaded I shift clunk, I decided to do a Google. I came across this one: Living with Honda's Jazz I shift. click dunkvshondaishiftblogblogspot.com and the article is quite interesting given that said blogger covered 130,000 plus miles with the dreaded ( not my words) Ishift.  It also covers Michelin tyres which is quite positive. There are two blogs under the dunkvshonda name both worth a read.
I also noticed that I dropped a boo boo when my 2010 EX I shift was serviced by not paying the extra for fully synthetic oil given the difference in fuel consumption, which is claimed the different oil makes.
It would help if I turned the auto climate control off of course given that it is claimed to absorb some 10% of the fuel used which would push me up to the top 40's. I am afraid 70mph down the A30 doesn't help either. A lighter right foot, turn off the air con and use fully synthetic oil might make the magic 50+  BUT then being an old codger I like the constant temperature.
Whilst Club Jazz is very informative it is nice to see an 'independent' write up.

Thanks very much for write up.  I've read all about the i-Shift blog which is just brilliant reading gave me a lot of useful tips on how to use it properly .

[John Ratsey]

Thanks very much for write up.  I've read all about the i-Shift blog which is just brilliant reading gave me a lot of useful tips on how to use it properly .

I also read some of the blog out of curiosity and was initially very impressed by the reported mpgs. However, further reading revealed that these were based on the car's computer so are likely to be 5% to 10% optimistic.

John

[guest5669]

Thanks very much for write up.  I've read all about the i-Shift blog which is just brilliant reading gave me a lot of useful tips on how to use it properly .

I also read some of the blog out of curiosity and was initially very impressed by the reported mpgs. However, further reading revealed that these were based on the car's computer so are likely to be 5% to 10% optimistic.

John

Hi John

Yes, I have to agree the i-Shift is very good on MPG compared to my last MK1 jazz. I'm getting about 38MPG in London driving with heavy right foot on Duel Carriage way at 60 MPH 58MPG. I could get that higher though if I tried  wish I could map it like my Tig and GTD which are both mapped. When I had them mapped the savings were huge which paid for both maps over the year .

[applicationcen]

The iShift is not as economical as very recent say three cylinder cars coming out of Citroen and Toyota's shared facilities.

However the Jazz is relatively big exceeding the internal space available in much larger cars in many examples. Hence because it is bigger it will be slightly heavier. It is married to an engine designed to last and be reliable.

On the flat at up 50 MPH (nursed)  it will give 55MPG. Throw it around Urban with lots of hills it drops to 29MPG.

Regardless of how many miles you drive in it, if you look at the cost to keep a Jazz on the road it is much lower as an overall proposition than many of the new car offerings pinning their credential on (usually lies) MPG alone. Thats not exclusive the iShift thats all Jazz models.

[guest5079]

I am pleased that this old anorak found something of use. Also, your comments have helped me as I did a rough check on fuel consumption of general use and got 44mpg. As I said if I turned off the climate control could probably
get it up to around 48mpg BUT after my old Rover V6 auto at 25mpg I am quite delighted at a present improvement of approximately 50%.
Keep the info coming it's the only way we can learn.