Sorry...one more thing...job is set for Monday.
I've changed discs and pads on several Fords but never on any other make or model.
My usual routine when fitting the new pads has been to crack the reservoir cap before winding back the caliper piston and then removing any excess brake fluid if the level goes above Max.
I know they say you can flip the seals if you don't open a nipple brake nipple and crimp the hose before appling pressure to the piston, but this has never happened to me. What are other folks' thoughts on that risk?
never opened a nipple or crimped a hose (seems silly to potentially seriously damage a hose by crimping it flat ) just removed the reservoir cap, but keep an eye on the level so it does not overflow, brake fluid and paint are sworn enemies. The volume of fluid in rear cylinders is nowhere near the volume of the front ones and it hardly raised the level in reservoir. The theory is that when new pads fitted all round the brake fluid reservoir should be at 'max' level line and as pads wear it drops to 'min' level line (barring leaks of course).
I use one of these for rear brakes
https://www.lasertools.co.uk/product/1314 make sure the cross grooves in piston face are horizontal and vertical when piston is back, there is a about a 4mm diameter round boss protruding out of the rear face of the cylinder side brake pad and it has to locate in one of the grooves (presumably to stop the piston rotating) if this does not line up with a groove it will sit on the flat face and put uneven pressure on the cylinder side brake pad, the audible wear indicator (squeal bracket) goes at the bottom of the cylinder side pads, otherwise it fouls. If you find the caliper hard to get clear of the disc and back on again you may have to take a couple of bolts out of the handbrake cable bracket, I managed OK but it is a bit tight. Make sure you tighten the caliper mounting bracket fully before fitting the pads and fitting the caliper as the lower bolt (14mm spanner) is partly hidden when you put caliper on, and if it is unscrewed more than about 2 to 3 mm it can foul and stop caliper being fitted. You will need a 17mm open ended spanner to fit over slide pin hex (by the gaiter) to stop slide pin rotating when you unscrew and replace the slide pin retaining bolt (12mm spanner).
You will undoubtedly have to file the ends of the pad 'ears' to get them to slide freely in the caliper, I had to take at least 0,5mm off each end - and plenty of high temp molybdenum brake grease on the ears.
so you will need 12mm, 14mm and 17mm combination ring / open ended spanner and the brake piston retractor.
good luck