Post by: guest6092 on April 30, 2016, 10:42:24 PM
Just wondering is there a option to integrate keyless system on my honda jazz? What options do i have?
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Post by: guest1372 on May 01, 2016, 02:44:26 PM
It's probably best to get a £10 keyless entry kit (http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_nkw=keyless+entry+kit) from eBay or Amazon. This connects to the lock & unlock signal wires from the drivers door that pass through the footwell area next to the fusebox. There is space to hide the receiver behind the panel to the right of the fusebox (which is where the original receiver would live).
The existing wiring is quite tight and you'll need to spend an hour with your head stuck in the footwell, but quite a few people have done this.
From drivers key mechanism and taken momentarily to ground (black):
White = Unlock
White/red = Lock
Quite a few choices to get permanent 12v and ground nearby.
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual > wiring diagrams > power door lock system (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/00/SAA2E00000000000000EBAT00i013.HTML)
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on May 01, 2016, 06:16:37 PM
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/231927136640
Or this
https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/371586335570
It's little more expensive than aftermarket solution, but considering the work and hassle involved to fit it, it might be worth paying little more for a used remote?
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Post by: guest1372 on May 01, 2016, 10:20:47 PM
The wiring diagram (13) (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/00/SAA2E00000000000000EBAT00i013.HTML) shows the Honda receiver with permanent 12v, accessory 12v, ground & a signal wire that feeds into the gauges cluster where one of the cars principal CPU's is integrated. On cars fitted with factory remote locking the receiver plugs into a 5 pin connector and clips in to a space against the side of the car which is just reachable by removing both the trims around the under-dash fusebox. The wiring colours in use on UK cars also differ from the diagram. Honda seem to use a model specific minimum wiring loom, so wiring & connectors for non-standard items is rarely included.
Tapping the wht & wht/red wires from the driver's keyswitch using an aftermarket kit are probably a more guaranteed & cheaper result.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on May 01, 2016, 10:36:48 PM
Only reason i was not inclined to use an aftermarket setup is the wiring hassle. I am not so technical. Saw all those wiring and already my eyes started rolling.
and the diagram makes no sense to me, and can't figure out how the wiring diagram and the wireless unit could come together. 
Anyways, I tried to find some video on YouTube of how to setup this unit, but can't seem to find any for jazz specially.
Do you have any step by step write up for this?
Also ebay has few different types of wireless unit. One with a cylinder shaped part abd another is without. Not sure which type to buy!!!
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Post by: guest1372 on May 02, 2016, 12:17:14 AM
The eBay keyless units are all universal and can be set up to suit different cars at installation. Most of the wires can be ignored, e.g. you don't need it bibbing the horn, flashing the indicators and closing the windows so the simplest units are probably the best, and you won't need actuators either.
The car's white wire is temporarily grounded to unlock, the white/red is temporarily grounded to lock the central locking, so follow the set up instruction in the kit for 'pulse low' or 'negative trigger'.
Probably best to get someone to install this if you don't want the hassle, it's doable but awkward.
As an example (but not necessarily the same colours as any given kit):
(http://i50.tinypic.com/154j704.jpg)
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TG
Post by: guest5826 on May 05, 2016, 10:50:40 AM
Apologies for not replying earlier. I was not able to find a place to plug in the receiver. I was waiting for the nicer weather to have one more go at it before giving up. As TG says, it is very tight. I think an aftermarket solution is likely the only way.
Post by: guest6092 on May 10, 2016, 05:41:43 PM
Received the unit this morning. Just wondering if you guys can explain how to open the driver door and footwell area to set this thing up please? Or where can i find the relevant information?
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Post by: guest1372 on May 10, 2016, 07:12:04 PM
There's also a useful connector for the door wiring hidden by the trim around the bonnet release lever.
Probably best to ignore boot release / lights flash / bip horn etc. and I recommend a cushion or a teenage relative.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 05, 2016, 10:39:07 AM
Hi TG
This is my fusebox above the pedals. Is this the one you talked about? Can i connect any wires for keyless system to any of this cables?
Also the fusebox cover
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160605/63d519f4ecc0225f60277444b4d6ba09.jpg)
Edit: I meant, can I connect specific wires of the keyless receiver to some of the specific ones in fusebox?
Post by: guest1372 on June 05, 2016, 02:40:05 PM
Sounds like you might need a hand with this, the wiring is very short and clipped in place, someone who does this regularly might find it easier to do, one wrong connection could trigger a warning light, failure to start or other problem.
It's the white & white/red wires from the door keyswitch you are looking for - they pass down the side of the car to the right of the fusebox, but are in conduit or taped up so not easy to see. You also need to get permanent 12v power and using a fusetap might be the easiest way.
Reaching the door wires is the tricky part, by removing 2 screws you can take out the trim that surrounds the fusebox to give a bit more space to slide a hand in, the panel under the shelf also removes fairly easily (one twist & two friction clips), the trim around the bonnet release also comes off OK (two friction clips).
I'm tempted next time I'm at the scrapyard to remove all the plastic round this area so we can get a good idea of what's going on and get some decent photos, not that keen on taking my own car to bits. The fuse box is also a junction box with many plugs and relays on both sides.
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TG
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Post by: guest6092 on June 05, 2016, 03:18:17 PM
Now the hard part is to identify the cables. I have some scotch locks , so cutting and taping the wire wont be a problem.
Another thing is permanent 12v connection. How to do it through the fusetap (I guess fusetaps are the numbered colourful ones in my attached picture)?
If i can identify the cables here, all other door cables also be there right? So, i just wanted to complete the job if I'm gonna get my hand dirty anyway... So what the colours of the other cables?
EDIT: Found add a circuit cable on ebay, but there's 3 different varieties of size. What size of fuse on my circuit board?
Post by: guest6092 on June 05, 2016, 11:31:09 PM
Another thought on receiver connection. On the drive door window control, the switch that open/closes all window, can i not connect one of lock and unlock cable of the wireless receiver? Any disadvantage of doing this way?(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160605/eb41caddb240da5aae5ca1f2f2a602ed.jpg)
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Post by: guest1372 on June 06, 2016, 12:09:47 PM
On the drive door window control, the switch that open/closes all window, can i not connect one of lock and unlock cable of the wireless receiver?I don't think that works when the car has been deadlocked otherwise you could break the window reach in and press the button. The pair of wires from the door keyswitch are the ones you want. It's possible to trace them down from the rubber grommet between the door and frame, as you can see behind the bonnet release trim there are rather a lot of other wires also in that space.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 06, 2016, 05:57:12 PM
What does that mean? Any electrical fault in the car then???
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Post by: guest6092 on June 12, 2016, 03:45:47 PM
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Post by: guest1372 on June 12, 2016, 05:04:58 PM
The door wires for locks, windows and mirrors pass through the rubber grommet then down to a grey and blue connector in the footwell. Found a white/red and a white with silver grey blobs next to it on the grey connector.
Remember to disconnect battery if you are going to start joining to these cables, there will be 12v present at all times as the keyswitch temporarily connects them to ground.
Power the unit via one of the fuses.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 12, 2016, 05:15:43 PM
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Post by: guest1372 on June 12, 2016, 06:56:30 PM
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Post by: guest6092 on June 12, 2016, 08:36:04 PM
Receiver white/black - white on connector, on side that came out of the door.
Receiver white - white with silver dots.
Red wire to a power through a fuse.
Black - body.
Now the key that came with the car is not working. The receiver also came with a LED, should it show some response if everything connected properly? Am i missing anything?
Edit: Also previously power door lock key used to work. But doesn't anymore. Instead I hear a clicking sound from the dashboard when i press power door lock /unlock key.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160612/6d3910dacb5b3ff98839a049681ff52a.jpg)
Post by: guest1372 on June 12, 2016, 09:13:13 PM
If you need to drive to work tomorrow, might be best to disconnect now and try again next weekend. Also a multi-meter can help trace wires. I'm getting a bit cautious about encouraging you and don't want you to have a problem.
Step 0) Leave window open / Disconnect battery between each step
Step 1) If you just connect the power to the box, then your LED should indicate what's happening, and your normal key etc will still work. If not go back over your work.
Step 2) If you are following the 'negative trigger' wiring instructions, then you also need to connect the box's switches to ground as well. (See attached diagram)
Step 3) Connect unlock and test.
Step 4) Connect lock and test.
Briefly taking either the lock or unlock wire on the car to ground should activate the locks. (If doors are shut)
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TG
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Post by: guest6092 on June 12, 2016, 09:22:35 PM
At least I didn't blow the dashboard lol...
I didn't understand your step 2!!
I have no clue of what's 'negative trigger '. And the receiver box doesn't have any switch.
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Post by: guest1372 on June 12, 2016, 09:36:19 PM
I have no clue of what's 'negative trigger '. And the receiver box doesn't have any switch.The universal kit probably has several different wiring diagrams; 'negative trigger' or 'ground pulse' is the one you want
Negative = Ground = 0 volts
Inside the remote locking adaptor kit are a pair of relays (let's call them switches).
On the Jazz you want the switch to be normally open (N/O) but close briefly when you blip the remote, when it closes you want it to connect your lock or unlock wire to ground which is the same action as the key in the lock when turned.
If one end of the switch is connected to ground and the other end to the locking wire, then when it closes it will activate the lock.
Pleased you are back to normal. If it's not raining tomorrow, I may go and label all the wires as there are quite a few people who read these guides and want to do something similar.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 12, 2016, 11:03:54 PM
Also LED did not turn on when i powered the box, was that also due to above reason?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160612/4b367c87431011cd71a29c8ed8eb5f9e.jpg)
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Post by: guest1372 on June 12, 2016, 11:51:15 PM
Can you take a picture of the wiring and any diagrams that came with yours?
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 13, 2016, 08:48:54 AM
Post by: guest1372 on June 13, 2016, 05:48:53 PM
Kit wires >>> Car wires
Yellow & yellow/black & black >>> ground (0 volts), i.e. under a bolt
Red >>> permanent 12v via a fuse
White >>> white/red (lock)
White/black >>> white (unlock)
Note that white does not connect to white.
Just connect the red and black power wires first to test if it receives the signal from the remote and you can see the LED blink. If that seems OK, move on to the (un)locking.
Probably a good idea to make sure there is no exposed cores of the other spare wires able to contact anything so tape them up.
The diagram alignment is a bit off and there's a small misprint on the 2nd picture, but looks OK otherwise.
Hope this helps.
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Post by: guest6092 on June 13, 2016, 06:52:20 PM
It's working like a breeze.. :)
PS: on this particular kit, the led does not show any indication when just plugged in + - , it only works once all the cable s are connected. More precisely only when the car is unlocked, only red light blinks.
Here's how I have connected the cable without cutting the wires. First uncovered the wires approx 1 cm length. Fold and insert inside the cable socket and tapped the cable with the other cable connected to socket. Its just enough space to fit in. I know its not the best way to do it but I didn't want to strip the cable halfway. Also my cables are vert short. (http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/2f16456e44616a150ad3f2afcfe1b5b3.jpg)
One more question for TG. I would be much more grateful if you can help to identify of where to connect the cable for direction lights and siren please? Since I have easy access to dashboard right now, it would be nice to complete other connections as well.
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Post by: guest6092 on June 13, 2016, 08:12:05 PM
And for horn its pink >> blue/red... Am I right?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/f03b26f731eb7dd93a5256e7f1c6e43d.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160613/df1f6b220334bdd565e44f4d7c2ffd57.jpg)
Post by: guest1372 on June 13, 2016, 09:55:04 PM
Friction fit connections might come loose, but you'll know what to do to fix it. I've had a further look and found some original instructions which clarify a few things.
Looking at the car's horn and indicators / hazard light control circuit most of it is quite buried without removing further bits of trim, but the rear indicator lights cabling runs down the drivers side of the car and can be traced from the footwell. The indicators take quite a lot of power (21w + 5w + 21w) x 2 = 94w so it's seems beneficial that the two brown wires from the kit are fairly thick. You can connect one brown wire to the left hand indicators and the other brown wire to the right hand indicators, but they will need to be good connections to support the potential current draw.
The circuit diagram shows green/yellow for RH indicators and green/red for LH indicators, you could trace back the cable bundle that runs along the drivers sill to find where the connections are made to the under dash fusebox. (It's also a junction box with connections on both sides).
I'm not certain what the siren/horn connection will achieve, bibbing the horn when locking or unlocking is not much use. If it's for a panic alarm that might be worth it. You can hear the locks operate from quite a distance so that's all you really need to be sure it's working.
The horn is driven by a relay so you ought to use that rather than connecting directly.
The circuit diagram shows it's the orange wire routed from the steering column to the engine bay fusebox. There will be a junction between the dashboard loom and the engine bay loom again in the under dash fusebox area.
Beware of just finding the correct colour wire somewhere, as the same colours get used in different places for different things. For instance the green/red used for the LH indicators is the same colour as an electrical load sensor wire from the engine bay that also goes via the under dash box en-route to the car's main computer. Easiest method is to isolate and tape up the spare wires, then it will be the same as cars with factory remote, they don't have sirens or flash the indicators.
Remember to disconnect battery when making changes to the wiring, it only takes 12v in the wrong place to fire an airbag or seat belt tensioner.
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TG
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Post by: guest6092 on June 14, 2016, 09:19:19 AM
I will try to locate direction indicators wire in the evening, this is not so important either, but a nice touch, thats all :) I will keep you posted with some pictures...
On another note, I just noticed, the Kit has GREEN cable to shut the power window after 30 seconds of locking the car. Now, Implementing this could be very useful in my personal experience. Couple of days ago, while I was trying to fit this kit in my car, I left my passenger side front window wide open and it was open for at least an hour, then my neighbour called to inform that. I left all tools, trims on the seat, but fortunately nothing was stolen.
Therefore, I was trying to look for the wires to connect the power door, and I guess the cable should be located in the same harness connector as the power window, right? Or, is it not that straight forward?
I looked at the diagram, but seems a bit overwhelming for me. Also this diagram shows connections for 4 doors, but I have 2 doors with power window fitted. Any thoughts on where to connect GREEN wire from the kit please?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160614/50c3a859750508abd163172db66c8d93.jpg)
Post by: guest1372 on June 14, 2016, 02:57:47 PM
A friend had a powered roof and windows on his convertible which closed remotely, it looked good, but i'm just not that flash or bothered.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 14, 2016, 08:31:24 PM
So, the indicators lights were connected on separate harness marked.
After connecting the brown wires from the kit, all working perfectly as expected!!
Thank you TG for all your help and knowledge. Couldn't appreciate enough your input!!!
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Post by: guest1372 on June 14, 2016, 10:07:56 PM
On the very far right there looks like there might be an orange, but it might not be the horn - could be something else.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 15, 2016, 10:04:11 PM
One thing I have noticed though, since I have connected the indicator wires, my right side repeater not lighting up. And i am 100% sure I have seen it working before connecting the wires to indicator. Just Not sure at what point it may have stopped working!! Left side seems to be working fine.
Any tips? What to look for please?
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Post by: guest1372 on June 15, 2016, 11:50:53 PM
For troubleshooting it may pay to remove the fuse from the remote kit and see if there is a difference, anyway 501 wedge bulbs are dirt cheap if a new one is required.
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TG
Post by: guest6092 on June 20, 2016, 11:15:47 PM
Sorry for delayed response.
I think, I have fried the right wedge bulb when playing with the indicator light connections.
However, i had couple of 501 LED bulbs lying around, after connecting it, back to normal.
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Post by: guest6968 on June 16, 2017, 11:55:52 PM
To TG , I just bought a jazz s, 1.2 2005., it didn't come with remote locking. after reading this thread I installed remote locking.
Briefly, there are no wires available to plug the keyless receiver unit into, so i went to a scrap yard took the keyless receiver unit with connector and the display gauge from the car (jazz 1.3 2002 -2007) I had a honda remote fob key also.
PLEASE NOTE _my car display gauge does not have the circuitry to work the keyless receiver unit. I added the wire to the "C12" on the green connector of the display gauge. Remote fob from jazz 2008 + does not work with this keyless receiver unit.
So on the display gauge connectors,
(A) C12 i splice(join) the blue orange from the keyless receiver unit connector
(B) on display gauge connector A1 I splice the white/red wire from the keyless receiver unit connector
(C) on display gauge connector A2 i splice the yellow wire from the keyless receiver unit connector
(D) on display gauge connector A9 i splice the black wire from the keyless receiver unit connector
(E) Replace my original display gauge with the scrap yard one
Did the remote fob programming and it worked. There are companies that do mileage correction about £40.
Post by: guest1372 on June 17, 2017, 06:08:36 PM
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TG
Post by: guest6968 on June 18, 2017, 10:52:23 AM
Post by: denis_galenkov on November 24, 2019, 10:18:57 PM
I see you are quite a master of the wiring.... Can I ask you for help as well.... A few years have passed since last post so I hope you answer.... I bought a universal remote control... and have read everything, but still have a few questions....
Strangely my remote control has 2 white wires...on the manual it says one goes to the locking system the other to the battery (engine start input +)... and here is my question... where is that?
and do we connect the black and the red cable from the remote control to themselves and then somewhere to the car....?
thanks in advance
Denis
Post by: sparky Paul on November 24, 2019, 10:45:35 PM
Some other members have successfully fitted these kits, so hopefully, some help might come along soon. Do you have any diagrams you can post?
Welcome to the forum, by the way! 8)
Post by: denis_galenkov on November 25, 2019, 06:48:36 PM
Here are the diagrams from the manual of the remote control.
From what i kinda of understand is that the second white cable should be used if positive wiring is done.. but not entirely sure.
about the rest, still trying to figure it out.
Best
Denis
Post by: denis_galenkov on November 25, 2019, 07:44:40 PM
REMOTE WIRES -----> CAR WIRES
RED - RED
White - white/red
whie/black - white
yellow, yellow/black and black - ground under a bolt
i guess it is all this... just what is strange is that i have 2 white wires while i dont see on anyone else 2nd white wire.... can anybody comment on that, pls
Thanks
Post by: shannondoah on January 21, 2020, 11:24:46 AM
Essentially the car key, despite gallons of WD40 being squirted into the lock of the Driver's door, has decided not to turn anyone more. So we enlisted the help of a local criminal who was able to to break into our car, after we had given him a significant part of our pension.
Since then I have followed the guidance on YouTube to 'Honda Jazz (Fit) Mk1 (2002 -2008)' to the letter.
So far so Good.
However as it was getting Dark and Cold last evening I was not able to progress the installation of the new wiring, for the Keyless Entry System (KES) which will connect with the low down connector in the Driver's footwell, under the Bonnet Catch.
There are a number of wires that need to be piggy backed onto the exiting connector. All the wires however seem really tight and I was having difficulties in connecting the wires to the KES, hence please advise the best way to clear this hopefully final hurdle.
And my thanks to you in anticipation of a prompt response.
Post by: culzean on January 21, 2020, 01:59:30 PM
Essentially the car key, despite gallons of WD40 being squirted into the lock of the Driver's door, has decided not to turn anyone more. So we enlisted the help of a local criminal who was able to to break into our car, after we had given him a significant part of our pension.
I have to ask if you had used WD40 on the lock before ? If so that may be the reason it no longer works, after a short time liquid WD40 turns into a glue that Evostick or Araldite would be proud to put their label onto, which attracts all manner of rubbish. Use PTFE based lubricant on locks, the carrier dries out leaving a film of PTFE ( teflon ) on the pins and tumblers - I used 3 in 1 advanced PTFE lubricant on a padlock on our side gate - out in all weathers - and it has been perfect ever since ( I have not topped up the lube in over 5 years )... you can also get PTFE 'dry-lube' which can be used on pretty much anything, including the runners on the sides of electric windows, door rubbers etc. instead of silicon, because the PTFE is dry it does not attract dirt.
Sorry can't help with keyless entry system though...