Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: JazzyJazz1 on September 20, 2021, 04:16:51 PM
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Hello everyone,
Happy to be a Honda owner. I bought a 2006 Jazz mkI Graphite (5-speed manual) just a few days ago and I want to do service it fully. This Jazz has always been serviced at the Honda dealer but they never changed the transmission fluid (oil). Honda advises every 60k km and this car has run 140.000 km! I do not understand why they didnt do it... Now I hear many horror stories where people change their transmission fluid after many km/miles and their clutch is slipping or gearbox is dead as a whole. Should I leave the original oil in or should I change it nevertheless?
The cars runs fine as it is now. Gear changes are OK as well but not very light, I change gear carefully at the moment. Any experiences here? Thanks!
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Are you sure that the oil has never been changed? When Honda were servicing my CVT gearbox they never filled in the record in the service manual but when this was pointed out to them they showed me the computer record of the oil being drawn from stores and completed the record.
Vic.
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Yes I am sure. I called the dealer where it was in service and they said they never did it. It is not a CVT though, its a normal 5 speed manual gearbox. I'm wondering whats the best thing to do here... I would say; get old fluid out and put new fluid it without flushing so the greasy parts stay as they are... Anyone with experience?
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That's the danger of the internet - you get to hear all about it when things go wrong. You don't hear about all the times when things go right.
I think a gearbox fluid change would only cause a slipping clutch if you put the wrong fluid in an automatic gearbox. In your manual the gearbox oil doesn't go anywhere near the clutch. So yes, it's got to be a good thing to change oil that's 15 years old and should have been changed twice already.
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I changed my mine last year, it's a pretty easy job if you're competent at doing simple tasks like engine oil and filter changes.
I would recommend buying genuine honda transmission oil and you'll also need a couple of new alloy washers for the drain and fill plugs. I also mixed some molyslip gearbox protection into the oil, hopefully it might help prolong the life of my output bearing.
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Changed mine at 90K. I don't have anything in the cars documentation to suggest it had been changed previously.
I bought the proper Honda MTF and I think replacement washer(s).
Make sure can undo the top bolt before undoing the bottom (otherwise good luck putting Oil back on).
The job was quite easy. Didn't notice much difference afterwards. Possibly a little smoother/possibly just placebo!
I doubt I'll ever change it again. The car will rust to death before I hit another 60-90K
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Changed my old 2003 manual's oil at about 75k, 15 years old at the time, once the car had been driven for a while it was noticeably more quiet and smoother, I sold it on to a workmate, its now just over 100k and still fine. I used MTF-94 gear oil but you won't go wrong with genuine Honda MTF. I would definitely change it if I were you.
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yes is say its time to change it.. think the capacity is 3 and half litres. if you cant get to the filler which is a pain to get to if its not on a ramp.. i filled mine up through the reversing light switch just on top of the gearbox. just take the air filter box off. a couple of 10 ml nuts and plastic popper. to get to the switch
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Capacity is 1.5 litres - the drain and fill holes are on passenger side of engine pretty much right by driveshaft, you can get to them if car jacked up with wheel off, be sure to do it on level ground and use axle stand as well as jack. Make sure you can get upper fill plug out before removing the lower drain plug, otherwise you could end up with an empty gearbox and no way to fill it. The plugs can be hard to move as they will probably have been in since car was new, and drain intervals are 75,000 miles. I use Castrol syntrans 75/85 but any good quality MTF will be OK. I think they recently change syntrans name to trannsmax long life, but same oil..
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yes is say its time to change it.. think the capacity is 3 and half litres. if you cant get to the filler which is a pain to get to if its not on a ramp.. i filled mine up through the reversing light switch just on top of the gearbox. just take the air filter box off. a couple of 10 ml nuts and plastic popper. to get to the switch
Hope you didn't put 3.5 litres into the box, the beauty of the fill plug hole is that it starts to overflow at correct amount of oil ( 1.5 litres ).....
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Thanks so much for all the insightful answers! Did anyone have gearbox / clutch problems with this car? Or any other things I should know... Mine is running fine, gearbox aswell but a bit stiff... Only thing I find concerning is the noise that it makes from the AC under hood... Looks like the alternator or the belt? AC works perfect by the way, supercold. Not sure if this is much of an issue... Sorry to get off topic but would love to hear about your experiences with this car in general!
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common problems with forward main shaft bearing wear.. whine can be heared in first second and slightly in third
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The Jazz manual box is one of the sweetest around, any stiffness may be down to old oil. Most people notice a big improvement in gearchange with decent new oil...
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please remember when the A/C is on the cooling fans will cut in.. could this be the noise your hearing ?
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The Jazz manual box is one of the sweetest around, any stiffness may be down to old oil. Most people notice a big improvement in gearchange with decent new oil...
I like hearing that! I purposely try to find a 1.4, post 2005 and a manual non CVT model for that reason. I hope I can drive it for at least 3 to 4 years without major problems and I'd be happy.
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please remember when the A/C is on the cooling fans will cut in.. could this be the noise your hearing ?
It is not the fan. It is for sure the AC compressor. Its this silver device with a belt attached to it. It makes a squeeking noise when I turn the AC on. Once the engine warm ups and you drive for a while the noise is lower but still there. Its either the belt or the compressor I think... Can change the belt or these things that they run on (forgot the name) but im not really fond of buying a new compressor haha... AC would be nice in Italy though. For now its working fine but I try not to turn it on too often because im affraid I break something... Dealer said: "its normal for these cars" Im not sure what to make of that hahaha
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i would say any noise isnt normal? maybe try fitting a new belt.. especially if its gone dry .. you could try spraying a bit of WD40 on the pullys and belt while its running see if that cures the noise.. dont worry it wont make it slip just soften it up for a bit.
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i would say any noise isnt normal? maybe try fitting a new belt.. especially if its gone dry .. you could try spraying a bit of WD40 on the pullys and belt while its running see if that cures the noise.. dont worry it wont make it slip just soften it up for a bit.
Dryness is not a problem that modern microV belts suffer from and putting WD 40 gunk anywhere near them is not a good idea. You can tell when belt is failing if it is cracking across the belt or serious fraying along edges. Unlike later MK2 onwards which have spring loaded auto tension, the MK 1 is manually tensioned by pivoting alternator. Unfortunately the belt tension needs to be checked on bottom run of belt, which is a PITA to access.
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i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40 often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it
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i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40 often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it
I guessing the WD and silicone allow the belt to slip, but stop the noise,like tyres do not squeal on ice.....
When the old single V belts were made from rubber the petroleum based stuff like WD would degrade the rubber and make it sticky, stopping the squeal temporarily, but modern multi V belts made from polyurethane or synthetic rubber so not affected by oils, so any lubricant will just destroy the friction they depend on to do their job.
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i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40 often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it
I guessing the WD and silicone allow the belt to slip, but stop the noise,like tyres do not squeal on ice.....
When the old single V belts were made from rubber the petroleum based stuff like WD would degrade the rubber and make it sticky, stopping the squeal temporarily, but modern multi V belts made from polyurethane or synthetic rubber so not affected by oils, so any lubricant will just destroy the friction they depend on to do their job.
Thanks so much to both of you for your insight! I do also think its not that wise to spray wd40 on belts... Yeah maybe a bit just carefully on the turning mechanism of the pulley. (thanks for reminding me what they are called, not a native english speaker here) So yeah, will check tension, state of belt and potentially pulleys and also brand new Honda MTF3 in my gearbox! Hopefully she'll run for a few years like that!
Maybe last little point: like many Jazz'es there is a bit of rust on the back door and some little spots here and there. How do you guys tackle the rust problem on your Jazz? I do not mind the paint at all, my car is full of scratches and little dents anyway, im all about mechanics being ok. Beauty doesn't make you go from A to B. My guess would be a bit sandpaper, cleaning and then potentially spray a bit of paint and then protective coating? Im also looking into spraying the rubber suspension parts with this "rubber spray" that keeps the rubber soft and last longer to avoid leaking / suspension problems. Lastly maybe replace the pollen filter behind the dash storage (I think its there). That's pretty much it. (sorry for being off topic, this website is just too helpful and you all are very knowledgeable, i'm grateful!)
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i used to often suffer dry belt squeel on many cars . as all garages do just spraying a bit of WD40 often cures if for a while.. i found best cure was smearing some silicone grease on the belts and that helps them last a lot longer. but yes if any of the grooves are damaged or broken its time to replace it
Maybe last little point: like many Jazz'es there is a bit of rust on the back door and some little spots here and there. How do you guys tackle the rust problem on your Jazz? I do not mind the paint at all, my car is full of scratches and little dents anyway, im all about mechanics being ok. Beauty doesn't make you go from A to B. My guess would be a bit sandpaper, cleaning and then potentially spray a bit of paint and then protective coating? Im also looking into spraying the rubber suspension parts with this "rubber spray" that keeps the rubber soft and last longer to avoid leaking / suspension problems. Lastly maybe replace the pollen filter behind the dash storage (I think its there). That's pretty much it. (sorry for being off topic, this website is just too helpful and you all are very knowledgeable, i'm grateful!)
So I have the same exterior signs of rust creeping in on the rear wheel arches. Fronts are ok so far. When I take the wheels off and inspect the area where the brakes/suspensions etc all mount to it's very rusty, There are guides on youtube on how to repair wheel arch rust, which is one of the most common areas on any car. Probably treating it early before you need to start using body filler would be best. In anycase it's the rust underneath in the structural areas you can't see that are the real worries.