Author Topic: Egr valve  (Read 8111 times)

guest6296

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #15 on: November 01, 2017, 08:52:58 PM »
Personally I have never had any doubts about the operation of my EGR valve. The engine performs flawlessly, fuel consumption is great, no judder at any speed once clutch is fully engaged, and no warning lights or codes.

IMHO and general consensus on 'tinternet seems to be that EGR more likely to give problems if car is constantly used for short local journeys and never gets a higher speed higher rev blast occasionally to burn off the crud that can build up in the EGR,  especially the solenoid shaft. There are dire warnings on some politically correct sites that 'blanking off the EGR can cause your engine to overheat' by allowing combustion temperatures to rise etc.  in fact when the EGR is working properly it actually reduces both the combustion temperature and engine power by replacing some of the oxygen in the combustion chamber with exhaust gas, which is also what happens when the EGR sticks open but then it reduces power and messes up the combustion at revs around tick-over and above (when you need good clean combustion to allow you to pull away smoothly).

Only time I have had jerky take-offs of Jazz and Civic I knew it was clutch related and I gave the clutches a good warm up by leaving handbrake on and deliberately slipping the clutch.  My clutch control is pretty good but even I was unable to control the juddering when using normal revs to pull away and had to resort to winding the revs up and letting the clutch out as slowly as I could,  but the 'Italian clutch tune-up' worked wonders and I had a smooth clutch afterwards.

Your first sentence describes my situation exactly - short local journeys and very rare high rev blasts!

degzi

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #16 on: November 07, 2017, 11:01:13 PM »
If its constantly gooing up, It might be not enough to clean just the valve.
In the old days it was just a case of cleaning a pipe. On the jazz you have to do a bit more dismantling.

Look here  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v1xdHMWSFNM

guest7328

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #17 on: January 21, 2018, 10:04:44 AM »
EGR codes popped up on my Jazz. I cleared them but they popped back up again after some local driving.

I plan to clean the EGR valve first and see if I can get rid of the codes... I'll let you know how it goes... if that fails I'll tackle a full EGR passages which will take a little more time... 310k KMs so I suspect a more thorough clean will be required.

guest7024

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #18 on: January 21, 2018, 10:12:14 AM »
EGR codes popped up on my Jazz. I cleared them but they popped back up again after some local driving.

I plan to clean the EGR valve first and see if I can get rid of the codes... I'll let you know how it goes... if that fails I'll tackle a full EGR passages which will take a little more time... 310k KMs so I suspect a more thorough clean will be required.
I bought some stuff from halfords blasted through sorted it cost about £10  before that cleaned couple times

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culzean

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #19 on: January 21, 2018, 10:52:26 AM »
EGR codes popped up on my Jazz. I cleared them but they popped back up again after some local driving.

I plan to clean the EGR valve first and see if I can get rid of the codes... I'll let you know how it goes... if that fails I'll tackle a full EGR passages which will take a little more time... 310k KMs so I suspect a more thorough clean will be required.

The fault code relates to if the EGR shaft is lifting when it should, whether the passages are clean or not will not affect it as the EGR feedback is purely solenoid lift and it does not know whether exhaust gas is actually going through it.  The normal thing that happens is that crud builds up on shaft due to valve not being used and when it does open or partly open it cant close again properly (there is probably more force from solenoid to open it than there is from spring trying to close it again). This is like having a leak in intake system at low revs (when valve should be fully closed) and messes up the fueling and causes lack of power and jerking.
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

guest7328

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #20 on: January 21, 2018, 09:38:12 PM »
Perfect explanation. Thank you!

The fault code relates to if the EGR shaft is lifting when it should, whether the passages are clean or not will not affect it as the EGR feedback is purely solenoid lift and it does not know whether exhaust gas is actually going through it.  The normal thing that happens is that crud builds up on shaft due to valve not being used and when it does open or partly open it cant close again properly (there is probably more force from solenoid to open it than there is from spring trying to close it again). This is like having a leak in intake system at low revs (when valve should be fully closed) and messes up the fueling and causes lack of power and jerking.

guest7328

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #21 on: January 23, 2018, 11:02:04 PM »
Oh well, my clean of the EGR valve cleared the engine light for a while but it returned.

The valve itself didn't look too bad but I noticed that the valve inside didn't shake or rattle while disconnected from the electrics and in my experience a working valve rattles and you can press the valve in easily. Mine is stuck fast.

I will have one more go to try and loosen the valve but the electrical components may have seized.

I wonder if I should attempt dismantling the actual valve?

sparky Paul

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #22 on: January 25, 2018, 12:34:56 PM »
Oh well, my clean of the EGR valve cleared the engine light for a while but it returned.

The valve itself didn't look too bad but I noticed that the valve inside didn't shake or rattle while disconnected from the electrics and in my experience a working valve rattles and you can press the valve in easily. Mine is stuck fast.

I will have one more go to try and loosen the valve but the electrical components may have seized.

I wonder if I should attempt dismantling the actual valve?

I don't think the valve is easily dismantled, it all looks crimped together. I don't think it rattles either, the plunger is under quite strong spring tension to keep it closed, it's the solenoid that shoves it open. To move it, you have to pull it out, not push it in.

If you ease a fine bladed screwdriver under the edge of the plunger, you should be able to lift it enough to get a purchase on it - it's very hard steel, so doesn't mark easily. Once you can move it, you can flood the plunger with some carb cleaner or similar whilst giving it a bit of wiggle.
« Last Edit: January 25, 2018, 12:36:34 PM by sparky Paul »

RichardA

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #23 on: February 08, 2018, 08:15:03 PM »
I unplugged my EGR valve and sure enough the car was much smoother, no juddering in slow moving traffic. Plugged it back in and the judder returned, the check engine light remained lit but went out after a few days or 30 miles of normal driving, no need to disconnect the battery. Once the weather improves I'll give the EGR valve a good clean.

Note that my normal driving routine is 10 miles to work each way on mostly dual carriageway, so whilst it's a short trip the car is usually driven at 70mph were conditions allow, so the engine should have plenty of opportunity to breath.

I did try three tankfuls of Shell V Power back to back some months back and it *seemed* smoother, the judder was less noticeable but still present.

guest7328

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #24 on: March 03, 2018, 06:40:00 AM »
An update on my EGR valve: cleaning doesn't unfreeze the valve. It is stuck fast.

I will motor to the local wreckers to find a second hand clean and seemingly function valve and try that - new ones (both Honda and unbranded) seem to retail for around $400 in Australia off eBay and much more from a retail shop or the dealer themselves.

I'll keep you updated.

guest7328

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Re: Egr valve
« Reply #25 on: March 14, 2018, 08:33:52 AM »
Managed to pick up not 1 but 2 used EGR valves from the local wreckers.

Because the cars were outdoors the EGR valve mounts looked a little, shall we say, rusty and the pistons and chambers themselves looked as blackened as my original faulty one did before I cleaned it.

I didn't hold out much hope but picked both up for $30 - the first one I fitted seems to have cleared the MIL, two days of driving and counting.

Seems that my original EGR valve was either seized beyond fixing or simply on its way out (over 300k KMs).

Got to love car wreckers.

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