Recent Posts
81
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Engine noise
« Last post by Jazzik on March 24, 2023, 12:04:48 PM »That's why I responded to (and quoted) only this 
:
:.../... it is direct electric motor drive until +/- 70 mph then direct enging drive.
82
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Engine noise
« Last post by Jocko on March 24, 2023, 11:56:26 AM »He is correct in saying there is no automatic gearbox.
83
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Engine noise
« Last post by Lord Voltermore on March 24, 2023, 11:53:48 AM »If you think ICE's are bad I recall an airshow many years ago when a Vulcan Bomber flew low over the crowd.
It was still an operational RAF aircraft at the time and before the increased airshow crowd safety regulations.
OMG . It didnt need to drop bombs to to shock and awe populations into immediate surrender.
It was still an operational RAF aircraft at the time and before the increased airshow crowd safety regulations.
OMG . It didnt need to drop bombs to to shock and awe populations into immediate surrender.
84
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Engine noise
« Last post by Jazzik on March 24, 2023, 11:45:54 AM ».../... it is direct electric motor drive until +/- 70 mph then direct enging drive.
I'm sorry to say it, but that's not true... Check out this explanation:
From 6:25 you can see the division EV drive, Hybrid drive and Engine drive (> 75 mph its 100% hybrid mode).
85
Honda Jazz Mk3 2015 - 2020 / Re: 2 questions
« Last post by TnTkr on March 24, 2023, 11:32:34 AM »That's good to know, if/when I get a Scangauge.
86
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Engine noise
« Last post by aphybrid on March 24, 2023, 11:24:53 AM »As this is my first hybrid AND auto gearbox, it has taken me 7k to get used to a different way of driving. The engine does respond in a different way, and sometimes sounds like its high revving... almost like you're clutch slipping. A couple of times I have put my foot down too heavily and the revs increase dramatically before catching up with itself. I have also now experienced that algorithm with the revs that Honda built in to make it sound like the gears are changing (pointless).
I think what Travis means though, is that sudden engine noise that kicks in for no reason that the driver has intended. Again, like the others have mentioned.. I now accept the engine configuration is doing what it needs to to to optimise performance and efficiency. I only really notice it at slow speeds, when I am using things that drain the battery quickly too often.
there isn't an automatic gearbox - it is direct electric motor drive until +/- 70 mph then direct enging drive.
heard a noisy engine - try being in test cell with a Merlin at full belt, your insides vibrate!
87
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Jutter/stall on deacc. / acc. in low revs, coil(s), EGR valve or something else?
« Last post by Doedel on March 24, 2023, 10:46:17 AM »Quick update: Not much has changed since my last post. Check Engine light is still on, obviously. Only thing I've noticed is a "misfire" VERY incidentally, and only once while I was rolling on a highway exit in neutral, the car stalled, but I could easily restart the car while it was still rolling in neutral.
For me, knowing about the possible stalls, the car is reliable enough to take it to 100km+ trips, but there's still something wrong with one or more of the IC/SP. I've read that they could be disconnected one at a time, to try and find the faulty IC/SP (issues should become less once you disconnected a faulty one, or worsen when disconnecting the "proper" one which is paired with a faulty one), but I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this (especially since my EGR valve is now also still disconnected).
For me, knowing about the possible stalls, the car is reliable enough to take it to 100km+ trips, but there's still something wrong with one or more of the IC/SP. I've read that they could be disconnected one at a time, to try and find the faulty IC/SP (issues should become less once you disconnected a faulty one, or worsen when disconnecting the "proper" one which is paired with a faulty one), but I'm wondering if anyone has experience with this (especially since my EGR valve is now also still disconnected).
88
Honda Jazz Mk4 2020 - / Re: Engine noise
« Last post by Karoq on March 24, 2023, 10:41:12 AM »When I worked for Shell I saw a few engines running on computerised test programmes and they were inside a so called sound proof cell. A big ICE at full chat defeated the sound proofing!
I would agree that most manufacturers attempt to fit sufficient sound deadening. However, after owning 8 Hondas, I have come to the conclusion that the Japanese enjoy excessive road, wind and engine noise on most models. My HR-V e:HEV was very noisy and now I am driving a CR-V SR e:HEV it is much quieter than the HR-V but still too much tyre roar, which is, I am sure, in the main, down to the cr@p road surfaces we have in the U.K.
I would agree that most manufacturers attempt to fit sufficient sound deadening. However, after owning 8 Hondas, I have come to the conclusion that the Japanese enjoy excessive road, wind and engine noise on most models. My HR-V e:HEV was very noisy and now I am driving a CR-V SR e:HEV it is much quieter than the HR-V but still too much tyre roar, which is, I am sure, in the main, down to the cr@p road surfaces we have in the U.K.
89
Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 / Re: Ignition coil resistance
« Last post by Doedel on March 24, 2023, 10:40:40 AM »Hi tagger,
not sure which exact type of Jazz you have, but while troubleshooting issues for my Jazz MK1 (2002), I found the video below. From 4:00, resistance measurements are done, and apparently should be around 1.8kOhms.
Hope this helps!
not sure which exact type of Jazz you have, but while troubleshooting issues for my Jazz MK1 (2002), I found the video below. From 4:00, resistance measurements are done, and apparently should be around 1.8kOhms.
Hope this helps!
90
Honda Jazz Mk3 2015 - 2020 / Re: 2 questions
« Last post by embee on March 24, 2023, 10:39:59 AM »The Jazz uses a thermostat on inlet (into engine), "traditional" engines typically used a themostat on outlet (from engine).
A 'stat on inlet will typically operate at around 10degC lower than a 'stat on outlet type, essentially it works at desired radiator outlet temp (cooled) rather than radiator inlet temp (hot). Temp rise across an engine will typically be around 10degC at moderate/high load.
The advantages of a 'stat on inlet are that it minimises the temperature cycling within the engine.
When an outlet type begins to open it requires coolant to pass through the radiator, back to the pump, and through the engine again before it reaches the stat again, and it is inevitably cold to begin with (near ambient). The cold coolant then causes the stat to close down while the engine heats up again, and thus the hot/cold cycle gets repeated. The greater the volume of the cold circuit the worse the cycling tends to be (e.g. rear engines and front radiators, MGF and Lotus Elise were classic examples causing head gasket failures due to the temp cycling).
With a stat on inlet (to the pump) it senses the temp in the bypass circuit (engine out directly back to pump inlet) and when warm enough it begins to open to allow cold coolant in from the radiator. This mix of cold/hot coolant goes directly over the stat and so it reacts immediately and closes down a bit, preventing the system being filled with cold.
A 75C inlet stat will mean the engine runs typically around 85C outlet, which is more or less "normal" (often 88C stat on outlet). My Yaris has an 80C inlet stat.
A 'stat on inlet will typically operate at around 10degC lower than a 'stat on outlet type, essentially it works at desired radiator outlet temp (cooled) rather than radiator inlet temp (hot). Temp rise across an engine will typically be around 10degC at moderate/high load.
The advantages of a 'stat on inlet are that it minimises the temperature cycling within the engine.
When an outlet type begins to open it requires coolant to pass through the radiator, back to the pump, and through the engine again before it reaches the stat again, and it is inevitably cold to begin with (near ambient). The cold coolant then causes the stat to close down while the engine heats up again, and thus the hot/cold cycle gets repeated. The greater the volume of the cold circuit the worse the cycling tends to be (e.g. rear engines and front radiators, MGF and Lotus Elise were classic examples causing head gasket failures due to the temp cycling).
With a stat on inlet (to the pump) it senses the temp in the bypass circuit (engine out directly back to pump inlet) and when warm enough it begins to open to allow cold coolant in from the radiator. This mix of cold/hot coolant goes directly over the stat and so it reacts immediately and closes down a bit, preventing the system being filled with cold.
A 75C inlet stat will mean the engine runs typically around 85C outlet, which is more or less "normal" (often 88C stat on outlet). My Yaris has an 80C inlet stat.
