Issue with rear electric window

[culzean]

Looks as though you've tried the obvious things.

The fact that you can hear a clicking sound suggests something is trying to work. Does the interior light also dim (engine off) when you operate the switch? If yes, that would also suggest a current is being drawn.

Before resorting to a garage I would try something like this to get a good purchase on the window glass whilst operating the switch. Maybe one either side with the door open and an assistant operating the switch?

https://www.screwfix.com/p/double-cup-suction-lifter/6299P?tc=NT9&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI06S6-ZrR6QIVo4BQBh1dBwEsEAQYASABEgJL1fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hope you get it sorted (cheaply).

Good post - that suction device looks just the job to apply a bit of force to window,  you can actually hear the engine slow down momentarily sometimes if you operate the windows.  My wife does not use her rear windows very often and despite the fact I tell here she should operate them every so often I doubt she does it - I have had to resort to pushing windows sometimes, as OP said having the engine running while operating the windows helps,  but the window control electronic will only pass so much current before it cuts out as the windows don't have limit switches they rely on motor stalling to stop at top and bottom.

[Jack]

Thank you both for your replies and advice. I shall try the suction devices and report progress.
Very grateful.

[GSX600FMAN]

What I suggest..... using a friend to open and slam the door shut at the same time as you press down on the window down button. Do not hold the button down too long ( only as the door slams shut) as it may have a thermal fuse/trip/device, which will stop it working for a suitable period. Your windows have friction, stiction or just seized. The shock and stress of the door slamming may break and free the mechanism. then clean and polish as much of the glass edge as you can (mr sheen as an example) where the ‘runners’ are.