Brake pad shims

[finn_mccool]

Me again.

I've changed the brake pads on the Jazz in the past, and reading the Haynes manual today, it says the pads should have backing shims fitted too.

These definitely weren't on any of the old pads, and I've never had any included with new pads.

Where can I get these from?

[Jocko]

You can get them here: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-JAZZ-GD-2001-2008-FRONT-BRAKE-PAD-FITTING-KIT-ANTI-RATTLE-SHIMS-BPF1257A-/331284071145?fits=Car+Make%3AHonda%7CModel%3AJazz&hash=item4d2211c2e9:g:FWIAAOSwjqVZBlYv

I think most aftermarket pads come without shims, assuming you will fit the ones removed. Perhaps at sometime in the past yours were discarded. Never looked to see if my car has any fitted!

[finn_mccool]

I've got these ones - they sit in the caliper and hold the pad 'ears'.

The ones the manual shows clip to the back of the pads.

[culzean]

You are right, most aftermarket suppliers you just get pads - reckon they assume you will re-use old shims and bolts etc.  However you will get shims and new bolts(with 'dry' thread lock already on ) and sachet of moly grease for the brake pad 'ears'  if you buy Honda pads from dealer or Cox motors etc.

I always find (even on OEM pads) that the 'ears' are way too tight in their slideways and need metal filing off to get a nice free slide,  bearing in mind that if the pads can't slide freely in their carrier the calipers cannot equalise properly and eneven wear and sometimes dragging brakes can result.  It is important to use high melting point molybdenum grease on the ears as they can rust and get tight,  which affects brake pad wear.

I also check the slide pin rubber bellows to make sure they are intact and not letting water in,  and also pull slide pins out to check wear / corrosion (do this one at a time because sometimes top and bottom pin are different) and re-lube,  just smear a bit of brake pin grease -(don't put any 'down the hole' or on end of pin as this can get compressed and stop pins sliding properly - also it has to be rubber friendly so cannot be petroleum based as it will swell seals, and 'O' rings etc.,  and red rubber grease is no good for brake pins) - I use TRW brake grease,  its a high melting point lithium silcone grease recommended for pistons and slide pins - tube lasts a long time as you don't need much,  I have just done all brakes on two cars and used about half a tube.

I paid about a fiver for 25gram of this grease from our local motor shop,  however I have seen it on e-bay for over £12 - wtf !

see attached PDF

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[finn_mccool]

Thanks culzean.

I've routinely slimmed the ears before fitting new pads - it's a good trick.

[Jocko]

I wouldn't recommend Molyslip or Copaslip for brakes on ABS equipped cars. Both these greases are conductive and can cause issues with ABS sensors. We supply White Brake Grease for ABS equipped vehicles and Copaslip for non ABS.

[culzean]

I wouldn't recommend Molyslip or Copaslip for brakes on ABS equipped cars. Both these greases are conductive and can cause issues with ABS sensors. We supply White Brake Grease for ABS equipped vehicles and Copaslip for non ABS.

The thick and gooey high temp Moly grease sachet supplied with OEM or decent quality pads is just for the 'ears' and it says that on instructions - it is proper stiff grease because it is used so close to discs,  and is exposed to elements and you don't want it to get washed away, collect dirt or degrade at very high temperatures.  The ABS sensor is a million miles away from the ears (and from anything else on brakes,  it may be near wheel bearings,  which on Honda have the encoder ring as part of outer bearing,  but they are sealed anyway),  the more liquid white hi-temp lithium TRW PFG 110 grease is for everything else including slide pins (although I would prefer a grease with moly in for those as well,  but it has to be non-petroleum based rubber friendly grease if it is anywhere near gaiters or seals.

Any metal to metal contact needs the staying power of a thick grease which won't get washed out,  with a high content of MSO2 and graphite and very little oil (which can boil away if brakes get hot) - for anything in contact with rubber a lithium or silicone based grease,  neither of which have the high temperature capability of moly.