Author Topic: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz  (Read 13755 times)

culzean

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #15 on: May 22, 2017, 01:39:06 PM »
Are there any alternatives to this special grease available in the UK at a reasonable price. In most cases we motorists only need a small tube.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/servisol-multi-purpose-silicone-grease-50g-tube-re90x

or alternatively good old white petroleum jelly (Vaseline is as good as anything,  I use it on my battery terminals etc)

The silicone grease has high film strength and good insulating properties which can be a problem on low voltage terminals if it actually gets between the contact faces (it is more for insulating stuff that is already connected to keep water out) - Vaseline (originally Silkolene - made by Silkolene oil company, Stoke) has low film strength so that it easily pushes away from contact faces to allow contact,  but will seal water and oxygen out of the plug.

Personally I would use Vaseline for car / motorbike plugs / sockets that don't live in a hot place, as the Vaseline can melt at fairly low temp, and silicone grease for higher voltage stuff (or anything that may get hot).
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

plasma

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #16 on: May 23, 2017, 08:50:17 AM »
Good post, I do the same.

Plasma.

culzean

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #17 on: May 26, 2017, 05:34:00 PM »
Although the handbook says DIFR6D13 plug Opie oils supplied me IZFR6K13 plugs for my wifes 2012 Si

Have checked the Spec and all looks OK, see attached PDF

For £50 inc VAT i am not complaining,  considering the eye-watering cost of these plugs from Honda.



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« Last Edit: May 29, 2017, 11:00:12 AM by culzean »
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

culzean

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #18 on: May 29, 2017, 11:00:50 AM »
from Opie oils 1 got the following..........

complete set oil/cabin air/engine air filters for both a Civic and a Jazz (Mahle oil  and engine air filters (made in Austria) and Bosch cabin filters)
4 NGK Laser Irdium / platinum spark plugs for Jazz (£50 inc VAT)
4 litres Castrol magnatec fully synth

ALL above for less than £130 inc VAT

Halfords will sell you Denso spark plugs for Jazz for £36.50 EACH,  they don't seem to sell packs of 4

Cox motors price £66.96 Inc VAT
part number 12290RB0J01    [Genuine Honda Jazz Spark Plug Set (Iridium)-2009-2015 is in stock ]
    Manufactured by: Honda

Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

culzean

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #19 on: June 12, 2017, 09:42:05 AM »
Having just changed the spark plugs on 2011 Si I noticed the difference  in electrode arrangement on the IZFR6K13 and DIFR6D13 (original OEM plugs).

Attached is a photo showing this,  the plug on the right is the ones I have just taken out of Jazz (DIF), the plug on the left is one from my Civic but electrode arrangement is the same as IZFR6K13 I got from Opie for Jazz,  plugs are equivalent in heat range and everything else (see my earlier post above).

The spark plugs came out easily and no real drama removing the wipers and other stuff, some of the screws were a bit tight due to corrosion but not a problem,  the blue clips come out cleanly as long as you pull the plastic away from the bottom of windscreen first and don't try to lift it from the engine side,  which puts a side load on the clips.  I did not remove wiper motor,  just undid screws holding the rubber feet and eased the metal tray from under it.   I did notice water had pooled under wiper motor and drilled a 6mm drain hole in what I judged to be lowest  point of the tray underneath.   Gave the motor and aluminium bracket a good coat of ACF-50 spray (use it on my motorbike),  and also inside the electrical plug / socket.



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« Last Edit: June 12, 2017, 09:51:34 AM by culzean »
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

Jocko

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #20 on: June 12, 2017, 10:09:32 AM »
They look like two totally different plugs altogether. It would be easier to tell if you could see the full extent of the thread. Looks from the photo as if the spark would be in a totally different spot in the combustion space. I take it from your post that you have concerns too?

culzean

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #21 on: June 12, 2017, 11:00:57 AM »
They look like two totally different plugs altogether. It would be easier to tell if you could see the full extent of the thread. Looks from the photo as if the spark would be in a totally different spot in the combustion space. I take it from your post that you have concerns too?

The plugs are identical in heat range, thread length etc and the spark in the IZ is actually further into combustion chamber,  they both have iridium centre and platinum ground.  I don't really have a concern and just posted pic for information.  Car started fine and ran well,  have not tried it on road yet (it is my wife's car) but when I get to drive it I will update.
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

Jocko

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #22 on: June 12, 2017, 11:32:01 AM »
I was always under the impression that the position of the spark in the combustion chamber was very tightly governed, as its position determines the flame front which effects timing and chance of knocking. On modern engines a knock sensor keeps an eye on things but power or, more likely, mpg may suffer.

guest1372

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #23 on: June 12, 2017, 01:07:20 PM »
I was always under the impression that the position of the spark in the combustion chamber was very tightly governed, as its position determines the flame front ....
The F1 guys are igniting outside of the cylinder in a small pre-mix chamber then sending this in to mix with the primary fuel/air.  Instead of a progressive dome shaped burn they are burning further up to the cylinder/piston surfaces faster and leaner.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=f1+turbulent+jet+ignition&num=100&tbm=isch
--
TG

guest5079

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #24 on: June 13, 2017, 03:15:25 PM »
Because I could find no supplier listing the recommended NGK IZFR plugs I went onto the NGK site and there found the DIFR6 plugs. As the info sheet was dated 7 2016 one can only assume NGK have superceded the IZFR plug.
Which of course manufacturers are prone to do hiding under the guise of improvement.

culzean

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Re: Replacing plugs on 2010 Jazz
« Reply #25 on: June 13, 2017, 07:22:20 PM »
Because I could find no supplier listing the recommended NGK IZFR plugs I went onto the NGK site and there found the DIFR6 plugs. As the info sheet was dated 7 2016 one can only assume NGK have superceded the IZFR plug.
Which of course manufacturers are prone to do hiding under the guise of improvement.

My wife's 2012 si handbook lists the DIFR  plug as recommended type and I was supplied IZFR type recently. Happy to say had the chance to drive her indoors si around north Wales today averaged 53mpg and ran better than before I replaced DIFR plugs with the IZFR.  All I found was that DIFR is a lot more expensive than IZFR,  so if IZFR does the job why pay more (noted on fitfreak usa site that some members have problems trying to get DIFR plugs).  IZFR seem much easier to obtain,  and as I posted earlier,  the spec is identical with Iridium centre and platinum ground electrode,  just that on IZFR the ground electrode does not project as far.

The DI stands for 'double fine electrode' - some blurb in link below about improved ignitability etc.  But if you can't get them easily in aftermarket what is the point, I think my 200 mile run today proved the IZ perform as well (if not better) anyway.

https://www.ngk.com/glossary/8/spark-plug/D
« Last Edit: June 13, 2017, 09:21:14 PM by culzean »
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

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