Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk2 2008-2015 => Topic started by: d2d4j on February 27, 2017, 09:25:29 AM
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Hi
I hope I have posted in correct forum, apologies if I have not
I have bought a set of DRL for our Honda jazz si, and a controller which should dim DRL to 50% light on indicator and sidelights
I would like to ask if anyone could help as follows
How to locate a ACC in fuse box and best method for connecting the ACC wire
How best to connect the indicator and sidelight connections
The controller has a green wire which it states should go to audio, is this the horn connection - it states on pressing the audio button, the DRL should strobe
Lastly, it maybe a silly question, but which wire needs connecting (the positive or negative) for the sidelight/indicator/horn or is there only 1 wire
Thank you for your time in advance
Many thanks
John
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This thread had some commentary on fitting DRLs to a Mk1, similar principles and issues probably apply to the Mk2.
http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=8585.msg44056 (http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=8585.msg44056)
The power might be best served from the IG1 ignition switched feed rather than ACC so you can sit waiting in the car with the radio on and the DRLs off, the sidelight wiring for mode changing from DRL to secondary Front Position Lamp should be more accessible in the Mk2 through the engine bay.
An IG1 switched +ve supply near the DRLs is the power supply for the headlight leveling motors, this is Light Green and fused at 10A via fuse #5 in the under dash fusebox.
Left indicator is Blue, right indicator is White
Front position light wiring is +ve Grey
Lighting ground (-ve) wires are black.
I assume the audio trigger is to flash the DRLs with an alarm, and if you fit the DRLs away from the indicators down on the valance then you don't need to dim them when indicating, that's only a requirement when they are co-located.
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TG
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Hi tg
Many thanks, much appreciated
I'll look at your link thank you, and try to understand your post fully
I prefer the DRL to dim, and you are correct, the position of the DRL are in the bumper, on the si it has 2 black oblongs, which I need to remove and fit the new one. So hopefully should look at when finished
I do prefer the dimming as I suffer badly from been blinded by other cars with DRL
Once again, many thanks for your help
John
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Hi Any photos as would like to put on my si also
Thanks John
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Hi 3reggy
I'll take some photos and post
My hardest part is understanding and locating the wiring TG posted, but I will have a go after reading and reading posts
Also, off topic, so I apologise, but I am uncertain or confused if our si is a mk2 or a mk3, and if forum does not mind, I'll post some pics of the lighted door sills and door downlighting I fitted over Christmas. I think they look good myself
The DRL and controller hopefully be delivered soon, so I can get started
Many thanks
John
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I'll see if I can take a photo of the conduits on my friend's Mk2/GE.
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TG
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Hi TG
I would appreciate if you were able to thank you
The DRL and controller are not here yet
Many thanks
John
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Hi
The DRL have arrived but I am waiting for the controller to arrive
I have attached some pics of the DRL I have bought
I am a little concerned that the wire maybe a little short but hopefully someone could let me know or I will see when removing the first cover
Many thanks
John(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/a59e7e08fada75856ddf9d972e229d4d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/84b23b0108e2176229fe153a9f29af72.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/23f2674c930efeeab65528bf22a522b5.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/ed9b463d471d12207ebb839763af1ee2.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/450e9b5b4e69b67fc4f744144f5d648f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170306/231594be2f4d2ffa992edb4fc657272f.jpg)
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Brilliant , where did you get these from please
Cheers John
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Hi 3reggy
Many thanks
There is a lot I do not fully understand sorry, fitting and wiring so please use your own judgment but I got them here (hope the link works sorry)
Also, there is no controller, so this is extra and I'll post pics of the controller I bought when it arrives
The DRL fit flush to the trim, and I have left the protective plastic trim over the lights, until I have fit them
I'll also take some pics as I said, for sills and door lights and post
I hope it helps
Many thanks
John
https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32742572368.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32742572368&productSubject=2PCs-set-LED-DRL-light-Car-daylight-Daytime-Running-Lights-For-Honda-Jazz-Fit-RS-2011&spm=2114.40010608.4.143.pA9WAD
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Hi
I hope someone maybe able to help, sorry. I'm stuck
I had a go at fitting the DRL today, and all went smoothly until it came time to insert the DRL (only tried 1 side)
The issue I have is that the DRL are to big in depth of them, and the location securing prongs cannot reach the intended holes far enough
I hope not to cut out any bumper, as part of the location (top prong) would become weak I think
I would be grateful for any suggestions or solutions
I have included some pics so you can see, and the bottom of the bumper, I also removed the balance plug, but still not deep enough
Appreciate Amy help you maybe able to offer
Many thanks
John(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/5126333a33777f8443d6d76a5f4ab93d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/059a3af5820316478664ec1d9f53513f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/f228fad3e6b32855aa4ed3622f095e78.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/648e646f821317175c3041e08c67c4bf.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/14bf64e2e4b4312d67eb3967adbf6d25.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/145c383b10222a9a2ed5c56a04a27598.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/46ffcc4ef0f7e3b3a87c75cb856cffb4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/44501aaf3c688581dea59c27e11b02e1.jpg)
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They look like nice units, but it is possible the RS and Si have different recesses. I'll take a guess and suggest that the large square nuts on the DRLs fit behind the slimmer part of the bumper slot and hold the DRL in firmly, then the black trim is held by the click tabs. You might need to un-clip the wheel arch liner to tighten the square nuts up from behind if there is no alternative access from beneath.
Just watched these which might help with the overall installation if not the fitment...
Part 1: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2HmEQVkxIE (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b2HmEQVkxIE)
Part 2: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzhH19PF2ho (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UzhH19PF2ho)
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TG
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Hi TG
Many thanks, much appreciated
I have watched those videos over many weeks/months and they are DIY, but gave a lot of info for removal of trim
I asked a friend, who is more mechanically minded then me, and he suggested they are a 2 part fitment
So I have just been out to have a look
I think he's right, you fit the LED section first, by sliding the bracket at back of led between the slot on bumper (should go in the large middle section, then slide down and backup to where you want them.
Cut the back trim case of the cover, to allow the LED to push through the trim cover.
So you are correct, fit led first then trim
I tried tonight but it's getting to dark and it is an extremely tight fit, I could not push down the LED, going upwards is easier but not enough room to fit the lower bracket in the slot
Guess I maybe ok just fitting the bottom bracket as it is extremely tight fit
Any ideas on how best to fit them without damaging the paintwork is greatly appreciated
I hope my explanation is easy to follow or understand
Also, as I said I would, and I hope I am breaking forum rules sorry, please see pics of my sill guards and footlights. Had to wait for darkness for door lights
Many thanks
John
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/c3ea43788f20c3e7597749e28dbbef5e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/58205e4c3477beb242a03868b40561e4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/ce6c4461eda371a1b9891a09ac4884fe.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/4be4746215db874807e97ece34f46860.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/bdcb77f8321131775740244d07228041.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/e598d204979a716eb36937cbb1dfa6e5.jpg)
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Hi TG
Sorry a thought, please could I ask how easy it to remove the front wheel arch covers
If access could be gained to the back of the front bumper, installing the LED would be easier I think
Please correct me if I am wrong
Many thanks
John
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Hi TG
Very sorry, rereading your post, you were 100% correct
Please could I ask 1 more question
In my first photo above, is the grey plug the IG1 you were talking about. It's here again to save you looking
If it is, it looks a very tight fit to get the wires connected or is there an easy way to connect. I thought of scotchlock to join them
Many thanks
John
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170307/3bf9e98d2a70e1380094dc05c37a4d63.jpg)
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With all these things, the more you remove the easier it is to reach things. Wheel arch liners are easier to take off with the wheel off, but can be half loosened with the wheel on full lock. There are a couple of screws but mostly it is push in fittings - these have a centre pin that expands the tabs on the back, if you lever out the centre with a fine tipped screwdriver by about 6 or 7mm the fitting should then pull out with your fingers. They are different sizes in different locations so you need to lay them out in order somehow.
Good luck.
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TG
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In my first photo above, is the grey plug the IG1 you were talking about. It's here again to save you looking
Sorry I'm not sure without looking at a car.
Anyone else?
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TG
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Hi TG
Many thanks, much appreciated
I hope I may be able to get at them with half loose cover, hopefully
I will have another go tommorow or thurs hopefully
I am still waiting for the controller to arrive, but just thought I would install these ready
Hopefully some one may post over if I have located the correct plug, and if not, point me in the right direction (a pic would be lovely)
Once again, many thanks for you invaluable help and advice
John
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Hrmm no good to me, I have a facelift mk 2 my front bumper is completely different.
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Thank you for all this information as you say with out being there and seeing it is hard to picture. Brilliant so far please don't be put off I am looking forward to the finished product.
Thank you for the link :)
John
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Hi
Many thanks once again to TG. Spot on for 2 part install and to have to partially remove the wheel arch liner.
Wheel arch liner needs the bottom plug, 2 bottom screws, travel around arch and remove 2 plugs, and the last plug is about 6 inches in towards the front. Gently bring apart from valance, and enough access to get behind bumper valance. Do not put too much pressure on the liner.
DRL fitting
Remove from trim, undue both screws with brackets fully. There are 4 position holes to use, grind the bottom hole flat to the heat sink, and use the 2 hole up from bottom
Remove the curved portion of trim which houses the DRL - do not remove the sides, just the portion that stops the DRL from falling through the trim.
Position DRL in place, get longer screws and hand tighten the screws behind. Test the lights. If working for the trim, which positions the DRL correctly. Fully tighten the screws behind the bumper valance to DRL
Fully ensure trim is secure and test light
Fit wheel arch liner back correctly
Job done - phew....
On mine, I do not have a grinder to flatten the bottom hole, and I had fit both before I realised which the bottom of the DRL was sticking out a few mm's, so I think I'll leave it for now
Just waiting for the controller to arrive, so can fully complete this
@TGO - it's. not the bumper I need help with, but the wiring for the controller
If you look at my picture above, the grey plug plugs into something which the black cable to right goes to the sidelight/headlight motor I believe
Any help with a pic would be appreciated from anyone who could help
Many thanks
John
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/d0c983b2f8a67aee21832d328b385258.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/2bd491386e09b26d2f4a5251b56c1b38.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/df3d138a055795ecf7e8eab76cd59272.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/4cc6ac47587b9f43a6430e6c3307067a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/8abc129fdbea4adfc5293fae2c8893ac.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/4984a7b1ef459736fa00819f1a8e94c7.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/12a86b807f14b6d9e3118053e5f4801d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/311f4bff52af6dc60c19fe250d734cc4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/81699c2a978a7a6bd2d3eabca42c9c9b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170308/cc9d1793d459495df900b986c79c3084.jpg)
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Hi
Sorry I thought last night, the advice on grinding the bottom screw position of the heat sink flat maybe wrong and not the reason for the led not lying flat
I think maybe the small bottom screw position maybe to help with heat dissipation
The black plug holding the bottom valance to the bumper maybe the reason for the led not lying flat
Please make your own judgement over this
Many thanks
John
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Maybe one thing to consider is what angle they end up pointing, I guess you want the maximum beam intensity fairly parallel with the road and straight ahead, your bulbs look like they have a pretty good beam and direction right now. I sometimes see them fitted to curved surfaces pointing out way to the sides.
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TG
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Hi Did you get them all fitted and with the controller ?
any more pictures?
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Hi 3reggy
Sorry, I thought I had sorry
I'll upload some finished pictures I took and the controller I bought, did not dim the DRL on indicator, instead they flashed the DRL with the indicator so I cut the indicator wire as it is illegal in uk (note I watched a police program which showed a skoda activa flashing the DRL with the indicator)
It will be tommorow though and I think they look they look good, and still are working lovely
Many thanks
John
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Hi 3reggy
Please see 3 pictures of my DRL (no lights, sidelights and all lights)
I think they look good and I have not seen them fitted to another jazz si
If you fit them and need any help, please let me know
Many thanks
John
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/410ee072167331ae1d6616ebe086b18d.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/bc6f6ecfc136fe76de3ef55a2a9d337f.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/bbcf1fc92b350c04cc0fcf548254c8fd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170419/3ef2e21ff77f6bd94324d603cc0e7b8f.jpg)
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Thank you they look great on the SI, will start saving to get myself a set and get them fitted
Cheers again
John
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Fitted the same DRL lights as d2d4j today, same cars same colour ;D
Installation was quite easy, remove wheels, remove inner wheel arch to allow access to remove the standard plastic fake grills. I didn't have to shave any plastic parts from lights or bumper to fit them nice and flush in position. I am not sure why d2j4j had to do that to get a flush fit.
I fitted the plastics with the LED lights in the plastic holders all in one part. then put the plastic holding parts behind bumper to hold lights in position. you do need longer screws than provided to reach the threads in the heatsink of the LED lights as the ones supplied are to short. once fitted they were flush and fit very nicely.
I took the power feed from the headlight levelling motor supply as suggested by TG earlier in the thread. which is fed to the INLUSTRO DRLM to control dimming when lights are switched on. very pleased with the install and operation of the DRL lights.
(http://i114.photobucket.com/albums/n241/vapor_matt/drl1%20lightsaa_zps9hvwr5lh.jpg) (http://s114.photobucket.com/user/vapor_matt/media/drl1%20lightsaa_zps9hvwr5lh.jpg.html)
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Hi Matty vapour
Looks lovely
The reason why I had to cut the plastic on the back of the DRL (I did not cut the bumper), was because the plastic clips top and bottom of the DRL would not correctly clip into the bumper. By removing the little wrap around plastic allowed it to clip into bumper as it should.
Many thanks
John
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hi john
I think they may have modified the plastic clips john, on mine it just clipped into place. I didn't have to trim LED holders or the bumper, I was expecting too after your explanation and what you did with yours. I can only think they must have modified the clips on some batches.
And yes I do like the look of them, after seeing yours on your car and how good it looked, I just had to purchase them. they look like factory fitment and suit the car very well. plus I like the idea of day light running lights and being seen clearly in day light. you can understand why they are fitted to all new cars now.
well at least we know of 2 white Si's with DRL lights fitted, we might start a trend here :D
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Personally, and it is a purely personal choice, I think DLR's, when lit, spoil the look of the latest cars. I know they are a safety thing and I have no argument against that. I just feel that, by their intensity, they take the eye away from the beauty and style of many of the latest models. As I said, just my opinion.
I am one of those people that feel that old cars, that are entitled to carry the old black and white number plates (UK), should do so. And having said that, when the reflective plates first came out I swapped the plates on my 56 Ford! Perhaps it is an age thing. The younger generation want the latest look. The older generation hark back to an earlier style!!
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Personally, and it is a purely personal choice, I think DLR's, when lit, spoil the look of the latest cars. I know they are a safety thing and I have no argument against that. I just feel that, by their intensity, they take the eye away from the beauty and style of many of the latest models. As I said, just my opinion.
I am one of those people that feel that old cars, that are entitled to carry the old black and white number plates (UK), should do so. And having said that, when the reflective plates first came out I swapped the plates on my 56 Ford! Perhaps it is an age thing. The younger generation want the latest look. The older generation hark back to an earlier style!!
I would agree to a point, a ford capri with DRL lights would look silly, as would many older cars, and some placements of DRL lights on new cars could be a lot better. But from a safety point of view and being visible to not only other cars in daylight but also pedestrians who might spot a bright white light and not step out into the road is a plus. if they save 1 life they are worth it. Volvo had side lights on for years and were the fore runners of using daylight lights on cars as I remember. but have to agree that classic cars should be as original as possible to keep to there time in motoring history. after all we don't ban open wheelers from the road in classic form, yet as we know they would be a lot more dangerous in a crash to not only the driver but also anyone they ran into.
I was driving when seat belts were not even required, and I hated wearing one when the law changed. but now its second nature as the first thing you put on when getting into your car. DRL lights are now required by law on new cars and offer greater safety. in 15 years 95% of cars on the road will have them fitted and it will be the norm.
as for fitting the DRL lights to the Si I think they complement the car in there position. but of course this is my own opinion and subjective to point of view.
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Im still saving ??
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Personally, and it is a purely personal choice, I think DLR's, when lit, spoil the look of the latest cars. I know they are a safety thing and I have no argument against that. I just feel that, by their intensity, they take the eye away from the beauty and style of many of the latest models. As I said, just my opinion.
I am one of those people that feel that old cars, that are entitled to carry the old black and white number plates (UK), should do so. And having said that, when the reflective plates first came out I swapped the plates on my 56 Ford! Perhaps it is an age thing. The younger generation want the latest look. The older generation hark back to an earlier style!!
+1
Personally I think the DRL's on some cars, particularly French ones look horrible, why do they have to be strung out in all manner of swirly shapes, why not just a compact round, oblong or square shape.
I have fitted round ones to my motorbike simply because you need all the visibility you can get on a bike these days, and having DRL's on other vehicles has made it even more likely that a bike will be harder to spot now that every other vehicle is lit up like Blackpool beach.
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Hi
I personally think all DRL should be only situated below bumper level
I like the position on the SI, and I think they look lovely without detracting from the look of the jazz
I am frustrated by the DRL where they are at eye level, blinding on corners and really fed up with the big 4x4, SUV etc where they are at eye level, and when they are behind you, makes it harder to look in mirrors, akin to drivers leaving there rear fog lights on.
I think some DRL also do not reduce power upon headlights been turned on, or my eyesight is getting really bad
I suppose it's each to their own
@3reggy good luck, hope you save up soon and fit them, then that's 3 SI we know off
Many thanks
John
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The thing about DRL's is that the higher they are off the road the earlier people can see them (especially on roads with dips in them) and they also collect less dirt. IMHO it is mainly those 'self-leveling' ( LOL ) laser headlights on 4x4 that cause problems, the rear spoiler on my Civic cuts out glare from pretty much every headlight from the interior mirror except 4x4 lights as they are too high, their light also has a high blue content, which is very 'glarey' to the human eye and can leave you blinded for a while even when the offending light has gone.
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The DRL's on both the SI's look great!
Unfortunately there's nothing for our model, except for some universal cheap bling i don't like.
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In the days of incandescent lamps the power of headlights, sidelights and brake lights were set, by law, to limit the maximum intensity of light emitted. Now, with modern light technology, the light output is many times greater. As far as I am aware, the law hasn't changed and power is still the legal requirement. This has led to lights getting brighter and brighter.
With modern vehicle instruments being illuminated whenever the ignition is turned on, and bright DRLs fitted to vehicles, I often see motorist driving, in town and after dark, with no lights to the rear, mistakenly believing their lights are on. In the "old days" your first look at the speedometer showed you that all was dark, and the mistake was quickly rectified!
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In the days of incandescent lamps the power of headlights, sidelights and brake lights were set, by law, to limit the maximum intensity of light emitted. Now, with modern light technology, the light output is many times greater. As far as I am aware, the law hasn't changed and power is still the legal requirement. This has led to lights getting brighter and brighter.
With modern vehicle instruments being illuminated whenever the ignition is turned on, and bright DRLs fitted to vehicles, I often see motorist driving, in town and after dark, with no lights to the rear, mistakenly believing their lights are on. In the "old days" your first look at the speedometer showed you that all was dark, and the mistake was quickly rectified!
In the 'old' and these days i first look outside and when it's raining or clouding dark during daylight i turn the lights on. Of course in evening always. :)
But i understand what you're saying and fully agree! I see too many cars driving in the dark with only DRL. It is dangerous, but i guess people don't think anymore!
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The only time I ever forget to put the lights on - and I have to admit, it does very occasionally happen - is when I get into the car in the dark, and then get distracted by something (passenger, radio, sat nav or such). But as soon as I look at the instruments I realise my mistake.
I am a great believer in dipped beam as soon as there is doubt about the visibility. I used the Volvo option of headlights on when I had my S40.
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Pleased to see these outcomes and I'm sure there are many non-members also repeating this.
Vehicle lighting colour, positioning, intensity and operation including how they are switched is ultimately governed by the UN (via EU > UK)
https://www.unece.org/?id=39139 (https://www.unece.org/?id=39139)
DRLs are principally covered in r48 & r87 for example: ".... the luminous intensity of the light emitted by each lamp shall not be less than 400 cd in the axis of reference, .... not exceed 1,200 cd in any direction the lamp is visible"
Although defining a minimum intensity may seem strange it helps avoid narrow torch beam type lights that may (dis)appear with changes in pitch or direction; there is a certain intensity that must exist within 20° each side of the driving direction and 10° above & 5° below the horizontal.
Headlight intensity, colour & beam spread are also defined, but in luminous intensity (lumen) and illuminance (in lux) no longer referring to electrical power (watts) through a standard bulb. It is the illumination of a surface that is one of the primary measurement for low beam. I can't give a simple maximum figure because it's several pages of tables.
The introduction of auto headlights also comes from these regulations, not from manufacturers (or the EU).
DRLs vs headlights can be seen when comparing the two charts, followed by DRL beam intensity/angle:
(http://i65.tinypic.com/2hykpl2.jpg)(http://i64.tinypic.com/jj362a.png)
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TG
* "One lumen is one candela times one steradian, a unit solid angle which measures the directions from the source. So the luminous flux of a source that has one candela luminous intensity in all directions is 1 x 4 x pi ∼ 12.57 lumens.
The luminous flux (in lumens) has consequences – it illuminates areas. The luminous flux per unit area of a surface is known as the illuminance (in lux) where one lux is one lumen per squared meter (i.e. candela times steradian and per squared meter)."
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I just noticed in replying to another thread that there might be provision for DRLs within the fusebox. Fuse #15 7.5A in the under-dash fusebox is listed as "Daytime running lights relay" in some versions so checking for that I found a 5 terminal relay in a LHD car with wiring colours " BRN, WHT, RED, GRY, and LT GRN". Maybe this is North America standard spec or Scandinavia?
http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual3/en/html_en/000000000000705.html (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual3/en/html_en/000000000000705.html)
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TG
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Hi TH
I thought I had seen reference to DRL in fuse box, but I did not understand it sorry, and did not want to cause too much time wasting of your time
Here's my 2 pics of the fuse box from the handbook, but it's very hard to follow
Many thanks
John(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170502/c16664157c18439c5fb41c633b738bbd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170502/f6a065526c3780055fdd49d2b62ec480.jpg)
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I have mixed feelings re DRL's but in many ways I can see the logic:
HOWEVER it appears that there are plenty of motorist who think that the DRL is all that is necessary in poor visibility. What they do not appear to realise is that although there might be front lights there are NO rear lights.
Perhaps the EU should have thought of this and when some eurocrat came up with the idea he/she should have taken a leaf from the Swedes.
As to positioning under the 'bumper' there is the possibility of falling foul of the law. Many motorists appear to believe that it is cool!!! to drive around with their foglights on instead of side/headlights. Unless the law has changed since my days of wearing my posh blue suit with it's silver buttons, it is an offence to use lights less than ( and here my memory deserts me) I think it was 2ft from the ground in other than reduced visibility.Apart from the b things blinding you.
See and be seen was the adage we had drummed into us. Not to blind the poor beggar coming the other way.
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Too many drivers are now being conditioned into the belief that automation will take care of them. Driving has never been as complicated as assembling the second stage of a Saturn V rocket, and there is no excuse for a driver not to go with the adage of "see and be seen" - unless they are under-skilled.
I like DRL's, but in reduced visibility, there seem to be many who are unable to think for themselves and don't switch on their normal headlights to ensure the back end is also lit. The ones who switch on only their side lights are the worst of all to me, as they think those light are sufficient for others to see.
DRL's - yes. Common sense - optional.
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Many thanks d2d4j, I learn something new each day. It seems that a lamp with dotted lines is the symbol for DRLs and that fuse 15 may make life easier for installation although still need to learn more about the relay and how much (or how little) of the wiring is included. Honda have a habit of not including spare wires within the loom on models that don't have the item fitted.
Perhaps the EU should have thought of this and when some eurocrat came up with the idea .....
Or more accurately -
Perhaps the UN working party 29 should have thought of this and when some worldwide delegate came up with the idea ....
This EU bashing is easy, when in reality their main role is in establishing common regulatory frameworks to simplify pan-European tasks.
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TG
* https://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/introduction.html (https://www.unece.org/trans/main/wp29/introduction.html)
"The UNECE World Forum for Harmonization of Vehicle Regulations (WP.29) is a unique worldwide regulatory forum within the institutional framework of the UNECE Inland Transport Committee.
Three UN Agreements, adopted in 1958, 1997 and 1998, provide the legal framework allowing Contracting Parties (member countries) attending the WP.29 sessions to establish regulatory instruments concerning motor vehicles and motor vehicle equipment"
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Hi Folks
Grateful for any ideas on how to solve this one.
I bought a set of Osram LEDriving LG Daytime Running Lights (LEDDRL102) to install them on my 2009 Jazz 1.2 (GG VIN) as it’s being used as a learner driver car by my daughter.
Osram recommends the PX-5 model DRL as a retrofit for the Jazz because the PX-5 is wired just to the battery, whereas the LEDDRL102 needs an additional wire to go to under dash fuse 15. I preferred the LEDDRL102 because it dims to 50% when the main beams are lit whereas the PX-5 switches the DRL off altogether (and I also bought it new on special offer).
If I follow the Osram instructions, the challenge is to get a wire from the battery in the engine bay, through the firewall / bulkhead, and all the way to the (empty) fuse 15 in the under-dash fusebox. On my Jazz, there is a bundle of cables up above and behind the clutch pedal that goes through a boot/gland into the engine compartment, but being a small car these cables turn the corner behind the front right wheel arch and come through into the engine bay in an essentially unreachable place.
Currently my two options seem to be:
(A) Some posts (http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=8585.msg43955#msg43955 (http://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=8585.msg43955#msg43955)) suggest using a yellow headlight height adjustment motor for IG1 power instead of fuse 15, but that wiring diagram (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/00/SAA2E00000000000000EBAT00i004.HTML (http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A00/HTML/00/SAA2E00000000000000EBAT00i004.HTML)) is for an older Jazz. The one I think is for mine (http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/index.html (http://hondafitjazz.com/manual3/index.html) > Lights, Exterior > Headlight Levelling System > Circuit Diagram without HID) seems to suggest that I’ll be looking for a LT GRN wire.
Does anyone have experience with this? Any things I'd need to look out for connecting to that wire instead? It’s quite a hassle to remove the bumper to get to the headlight to find and test the wire so keen to hear if anyone knows this already.
(B) Alternatively, any tips for getting a cable through the firewall without removing the windscreen wiper assembly on the outside to reach the cable bundle in the engine bay? Like I mentioned, it’s a really tight squeeze where the wire bundle comes through into the engine bay…
Any ideas or suggestions gratefully welcomed.
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Hi zapax_242
TG confirmed the colour and wires to use, which worked on our jazz
If you read this thread from the start, TG posted in reply to my original post, which is light green, but please read for yourself
Good luck and appreciate any pics when you finish
Many thanks
John
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Grateful for any ideas on how to solve this one. .... Any ideas or suggestions gratefully welcomed.
The earlier thread mentioned was for the Mk1/GD and the colours for the headlight motor wire (yellow), this thread has the Mk2/GE colours (lt green) as you have noticed from the wiring diagrams. Some controller kits have their own suggestions, I think Philips does a voltage sense on the main battery terminal to determine whether the car is running or not; I prefer the switched IG1 method myself, but it's up to you.
I think the fuse #15 method might be a dead end on UK spec cars as the relevant relay & cable run are probably missing and would need adding. This would need an appropriate plug for the internal fuse/junction box (via Honda as it's v. rare & unique). It might also be another item that's controlled by the multiplex MICU (a known unknown as D. Rumsfeld might say *).
d2d4j & matty vapour are probably your main resource on this job as they know exactly which bits of trim to lift and where the cable runs are.
Good luck.
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TG
* There are known knowns. These are things we know that we know. There are known unknowns. That is to say, there are things that we know we don't know. But there are also unknown unknowns. There are things we don't know we don't know.
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Hi
Our jazz is the SI, but the wiring (of using TG advice as we did), is very easy and simple to do, with no additional work to wire to fuse box
I suppose it depends upon the DRL controller, which my controller needed a battery and ignition on feed, so I soldered and hear shrink the battery wire to the ignition on wire, then crimped this to the green power feed to the head light level feed on the headlight (top left at rear of light cluster), so this feed both, allowing the DRL only working on IG2 (when dashboard lights come on or engine is running), but off on IG1 key position (kudos to TG for this)
I did initially crimp the indicator light but disconnected this because the DRL flashed when indicating, which is illegal in UK to have flashing white lights on indicators I believe
Last wire to crimp was to the sidelight, so the DRL dimmed to 50%
I would advice you remove the front wheel, remove the wheel arch liner, and fit your DRL, which from what I can see, you will need to drill a small hole, for wire feed, unless you may be able to feed the wire through where your fog lights are, but I'm not sure as our is the SI with different bumper.
I hope it goes well for you, and would be good if you could post pics to help others if you do fit them
Many thanks
John
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Thanks folks,
I'll see what I can do over the weekend then upload photos once successful.
Good additional explanations - I'm not a sparky so a bit daunted by making sure I get the right wire - don't want to be messing around and making 'known' mistakes...
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OK - So ive just ordered a set of DRL's as per the Authors comments and will be fitting these to my Si once they arrive in the new year.
Hopefully this should be straight forward