Protect rear wheel arch from RUST

[guest6586]

It seems that there is kind of design flaw at least mk2 Jazz/Fit. And maybe thet mk3 suffers from same flaw. The begining of the rear wheel archs, just front of the rear wheel, has some odd slot where all stones, sand, tar...etc can gather up and start to rust the whole arch.

Has anybody done any development how to block that spot?

And why the heck there is no wheel well lining at the back? Is there any aftermarket linings out there?

Few photos will help to know what I mean.

This is from mk2. The arrow points directly to the flaw.


This is from mk3, it's not the same, but similar. And potential risk also.


This is also from mk3.

[madasafish]

I hose out the rear wheel arches whenever I wash the car...No signs of rust in 5 years)

[guest6586]

I assume you don't have any snow or temperature under zero We have that in scandinavia and it is just impossible to hose during winter when it can be -20 celcius

Ideal is to have whole wheel arch covered with that rubberized mass (tectyl eg) and then have plastic wheel liners, like in front. It would also reduce sound which would be very welcome...

[jonathan]

I remember my father using this on his Volvo 340 years ago.

Seemed to work well..

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Hammerite-5092953-Underbody-Seal-2-5Ltr/dp/B002HMOIE8

[guest6586]

It may just be very similar than this: https://www.stokker.com/pohjakaitse-tectyl-bodysafe-varvipurk-1l-tectyl/303044635

Well this is under 6€ 1l bucket. Cheap as soap. https://www.karkkainen.com/verkkokauppa/tectyl-1l-siveltava-alustamssa

[matty vapor]

Waxoil offers good protection, as it soaks into all the parts you cant see between welded seam's of the panels. They did a test with rust profers, and anything that goes hard can also chip, and let the water behind. A problem with extreme low temps in winter is the use of salt to clear the ice from roads and offer some traction. but salt is very corrosive.

The good thing with waxoil is the oil drys away leaving a nice coating of wax, which dosnt chip away like hard underseals do, and in its liquid form when applied it runs to all the little places where thick heavy underseals cant get to.

http://www.autosessive.com/products/102826/carplan-tetroseal-easy-sprayer?fo_c=1195&fo_k=83fa1b8e392979dd2f34c5f4bc9ef570&fo_s=gplauk&gclid=CNT2npuoi9MCFcsp0wodkxgMNg

[jazzway]

I am pretty sure in our Jazz there's wheel arch lining at the back.

[guest1372]

Something like this on a Mk1 / GD, liner plus lower trim although mud still builds up behind the fold.

--
TG

[Dayjo]

I spotted that potential rust trap. As I was washing my brand new Jazz, for the first time.....

The following day, when all was completely dried out. I thoroughly soaked the area, with Waxoyl. 

[guest6586]

I have to snap a photo of our 2011. I just changed winter to summer tyres and had a good look at the arches. There's a little plastic lining at the back of the rear wheel arch. Nothing at the front. As we also use small stonea/chips and sand to get more friction during winter, it's basicly sand blasting the wheel arch drugin winter. Combine that with salt and the mixture is ready.

[JazzOwner11]

I noticed some rust in the same place on the rear wheel arch of the 2011 Jazz Mk2 that I've just purchased. As the weather is so wet at the moment I'll just wash it with the hosepipe each week then soak it in WD40. When the weather is better (probably in Spring) I'll treat it with Waxoil and maybe stonechip spray.

[olduser1]

Your correct in getting the debris away at regular intervals. Once spring arrives & dries out this tricky area then apply your choice of rust prevention . Enjoy your Jazz.
Most cars have 7 year life , but why worry I still have my 30 yr old Subaru.

[MartinJG]

Something like this on a Mk1 / GD, liner plus lower trim although mud still builds up behind the fold.

--
TG

Yes. This is something I have been meaning to do. Is it as straightforward as it looks to unscrew and remove the plastic liner and then refit or is it one of these jobs with a hidden catch?

[culzean]

Most cars have 7 year life ,

Most cars go 15 years without rust on bodywork, and certainly in any important ( structural ) areas in normal UK inland conditions. This may be reduced in very humid salty areas on the coast.  In winter if salt has been spread on roads a wash underneath with a garden hose is a good thing, I would not be using a pressure washer as if you get it too close it could damage underseal.

Attached is a PDF from a vehicle corrosion treatment company,  they seem to favor Waxoyl but often dilute it with white spirit to penetrate better,  and say waxoyl seems to disperse moisture better.  They did some tests on bare steel with brine.  The guy is a bit scathing about those rust converters as he says they always leave untreated rust under the treated layer.

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[Toptek]

Our 2003 CRV was the same and I had to hose out the debris. It did need some welding to the sill area in 2019, it was in an area under the plastic trim which didn't fit the same afterwards.
I note it passed the mot without issue in August and is still taxed.