Author Topic: Jerky acceleration on 2005 auto Jazz - ruled out EGR, what else could it be?  (Read 9819 times)

guest6253

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Hi folks,

I'm experiencing jerky acceleration between 2000-2500 rpm on my 2005 CVT Honda Jazz. It's like the car gains and loses power suddenly a couple of times and does bunny hops. Needless to say it's pretty disconcerting when you're going down the ramp onto the motorway.

After reading these forums my first guess was that it was a problem with the EGR valve, so I blocked off the EGR with a blanking plate. But it didn't make any difference. I also tried unplugging the EGR but that didn't make a difference either.

The only thing that seems to help is to drive the car in S instead of D, which sometimes lets the car drive smoothly, but sometimes it still jerks.

Another thing, possibly related, is that sometimes when I first start the car and put it in D, it behaves as if it was in N (D light on dash, but doesn't move anywhere when I rev the engine). Then I have to shift it back and forth a couple of times between D and N before the car will go. Makes me think maybe there's a problem with either the ECU or the clutch.

It's a second hand car that I just purchased 1 week ago from a trade seller in Milton Keynes (no warranty though), and I've not yet decided whether to attempt getting a refund from the seller (potentially a hassle if he tries to refuse) or persist in trying to solve the jerking problem.

Are there any other "quick fixes"? that I can try before I give up and try returning the car to the seller?

Any advice much appreciated!
Toby


guest1372

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A trade seller must sell the car 'as described, fit for purpose & of reasonable quality' existing faults must be disclosed.  Don't mess with it until you have exhausted all options with the seller.  I have a couple of ideas on what may be at fault, but give the seller 'reasonable opportunity and time' to put things right. 

The electronic throttle and it's wiring may be problematic, if this is the case there are various fault codes that will be logged.
--
TG

culzean

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With a trade seller you get 6 months warranty in law (even if they don't give you a company warranty) when the fault was deemed to be present when car was sold to you - whatever you do make you complaint in writing as soon as you can - do not negotiate by phone or word of mouth,  an email is a legal document and once they have replied you have evidence that they received it - otherwise send your letters recorded delivery where someone has to sign for it -   after 6 months has expired you have no legal backing - and it can get messy.   Basically the sooner you make your complaint in writing the sooner the company knows you are serious about the complaint.

When buying from a private seller you have nothing - 'sold as seen' is the phrase that springs to mind  :-X
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

olduser1

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Gety in touch with your local trading standards, dont delay.

guest6253

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TG, culzean, olduser1: thanks for your advice! I will notify the seller asap in writing and ask for a refund. Seller is a trader but not a mechanic so I doubt he will be able to fix it.

gtd2000

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Did you check the gaps on the rear set of spark plugs...?

Eddie Honda

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I get this sometimes, but usually after having gone round a bend, come to rest/near stop and accelerate away from a junction. I think it's a lack of supply to either the start clutch or forward clutch resulting in temporary slip and bump on re-engagement.

Less likely to happen in S and less likely with very gentle and measured application of the throttle.

Eventually, I will remove the box, open it up and change the filter.

guest6253

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Thanks everyone for your advice. I've contacted the seller and requested a refund. He balked and offered a £1600 refund vs the £2100 that I paid. I've spoken to Citizens Advice and sent legal sounding letters to the seller. He's trying to get out of his responsibilities by claiming that he was selling the car as a private seller (which is nonsense because he  buys and sells cars regularly and was using trade plates). Hopefully won't have to take this all the way to court, but we'll see what happens.

In the meantime I've bought another honda jazz (with a warranty this time!) that's newer, drives smoother, and (touch wood) doesn't have any problems.


culzean

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Just to cover all the avenues  contact your local trading standards as well (or trading standards in area where the dealer / trader is located if not local to you),  as the car that was sold to you was faulty when you took delivery. 

Another option is to picket the dealers premises holding a big banner saying 'this guy sell faulty cars' or similar, but I would leave that as a last resort - just in case he has some over-sized mates with tattoos on their knuckles.
Some people will only consider you an expert if they agree with your point of view or advice,  when you give them advice they don't like they consider you an idiot

guest6253

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culzean, thanks for the advice. I checked out the Milton Keynes trading standards website and it just refers to the Citizens Advice helpline. https://www.milton-keynes.gov.uk/environmental-health-and-trading-standards/trading-standards/trading-standards-consumer-advice

I like your creative idea about picketing the guys premises. I think I'll leave that as a last resort !

JohnAlways

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I believe the CAB took over much of the consumer duties of the Trading Standards (another cost saving scheme)

guest6253

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Just heard from trading standards today. They go the lead from CAB and are following it up. I'm impressed that they're actually doing something about it! They're going to call the seller and speak to him about misrepresenting himself as a private seller when he's a trade seller. Also they did some detective work and found out that he was apparently selling from an address that isn't actually his house. The plot thickens...

MikeG1944

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Been following this carefully Toby and if you do get sorted out by Trading Standards be very careful about handing the car back before you're assured of getting your money; cash would be the best option; or you'll be left with no car and a bounced cheque; he seems a bit dodgy to me. ;)
Mike.

guest6253

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Thanks Mike, I think that's sound advice. If he agrees to refund I was planning to meet him at his bank, where he can draw a bankers draft while I'm watching and give it to me.

Trading standards has spoken to seller, told him that he's trade and that he can't misrepresent himself as a private seller. Also told him that legally I'm entitled to a full refund. They can't make him pay though. Only small claims court can order him to do pay. So, it's up to me now to negotiate a refund amount with the seller or else take it to small claims court and demand a full refund.

Next time I'll stick to buying from a dealership that offers a warranty!

MikeG1944

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I'd go for a full refund Toby; I don't see why should loose out at all.

I don't think the county court route is that expensive and I think that will cost him more. Most dealers just pay up when they get a County Court letter, or just don't turn up and you win anyway.

Mike.

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