Removing dashcam

[Steve1962]

Hi all,

Sadly the Jazz is being sold and I need to remove the Nextbase dashcam that was fitted by Halfords.
Before I start making a mess trying to remove the wiring for it, can anyone give me advice about the best way to do it - will it lead back to a fuse under the steering wheel and if so which route do you think it will go to get there.

Thanks.

Steve

[Kremmen]

I guess Halfords will have used a fuse tap.

If so it's just a simple matter of removing the 'piggyback' and replacing the original fuse straight into its slot.

However, take note of the fuses as Halfords should have put a 2A fuse in the dashcam piggyback tap so it's the other fuse that needs replacing.

[Steve1962]

I guess Halfords will have used a fuse tap.

If so it's just a simple matter of removing the 'piggyback' and replacing the original fuse straight into its slot.

However, take note of the fuses as Halfords should have put a 2A fuse in the dashcam piggyback tap so it's the other fuse that needs replacing.

Thanks very much for that info.

Steve

[Jocko]

Why not just remove the camera and leave the wiring in place for the next owner? Install fresh wiring in the new car.

[ianhj]

I had my dash cam fitted by Halfords as it was free.

Have just taken these pictures. Hope they help.

Should be very straightforward to remove. Wires from dash cam run along the top of the headlining then down inside the A-Pillar (take care removing this as you don't want to damage any of the clips -Google is your friend here). Earth wire is on door check strap.

I would say it should only take 10 minutes to remove but I always find everything takes longer than planned - say 20 tops.

[peteo48]

Really helpful Ian. Been thinking of getting a dash cam (I have watched too many Police Interceptor and Motorway Cops episodes!).

I would want somebody to install it. Would you recommend the Halfords service?

[Kremmen]

Personally, no. Especially on stop/start cars as I've read many issues where they have just tapped into an ignition source and not considered whether that tap gets temporarily killed during every start sequence.

I have some experience with Honda accessory wiring and the only way for me was the 'option connector' route. Plus I take longer to route and secure the wires.

That picture above using the door as an earth point seems illogical as a multimeter can find many under dash earthing points.

One final note is that the official Honda document says that if you remove the MK4 A pillar cover, you must not use the same clips when replacing but use new ones.

[GBH]

One final note is that the official Honda document says that if you remove the MK4 A pillar cover, you must not use the same clips when replacing but use new ones.

I presume because the cover has an airbag?


When installing my dash-cam I took the power feed from the back of the cigarette lighter socket which is ignition switched.  (My Jazz is a Mk2 and therefore does not have stop/start).

[dfconnolly]

I just run my cable underneath the black rubber trim around the door aperture without lifting off the A frame trim on all my Jazzes?

[culzean]

I just run my cable underneath the black rubber trim around the door aperture without lifting off the A frame trim on all my Jazzes?

Yeah I have a multi-plug adaptor plugged into the cigarette lighter socket, which will take satnav, dashcam and maybe charge a phone or two, the LED lights also monitor battery voltage and it fits into cup holder.  Just run the dashcam power lead under drivers floormat, up behind the door rubber and cable tied to one of the hinges on sunvisor...

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/simply-12v-cup-holder-charger-548776240

[Jocko]

I just run my cable underneath the black rubber trim around the door aperture without lifting off the A frame trim on all my Jazzes?

That is how I did mine.

[Kremmen]

.... and me

As long as you realise that the plastic cover will hinge towards the windscreen in deployment and don't interfere with that movement you should be fine.

I'm the same, route the wire behind the door frame rubber then straight into the headlining.

[chrisv]

Hi,
Nextbase have a good offer on at the moment, their 322 gw full kit with rear view camera, polarising lens, so card and all leads for £149, bargain. You can get the hardwire kit quite cheaply from ebay, Chris

[culzean]

Hi,
Nextbase have a good offer on at the moment, their 322 gw full kit with rear view camera, polarising lens, so card and all leads for £149, bargain. You can get the hardwire kit quite cheaply from ebay, Chris

Beware the Nextbase rear view camera that plugs into the front view camera.  The rear camera shares the memory in the front camera and reduces the frame rate and maybe definition of the front camera video.  Maybe do a bit of research first.   The 'rear view camera' is a narrow angle camera that sits by the dashcam and looks through the car and out the rear window.   The 'cabin view camera' is a wide angle looking into car cabin, the 'rear window camera' is a wide angle camera that mounts on rear window, but is wired so you will need to find a route for its cable through the roof lining or under carpet.

Maybe a stand alone rear camera may be better,  one with its own memory and only needs a power supply.

[Kremmen]

I wouldn't touch Nextbase series 2 dashcams with a pole.

They have many problem posts on the DashcamTalk website. The most common problems are locking up and batteries running flat, some in as little as 15 months, just out of warranty.

Nextbase want you to buy one of their £60 SDCards and insist you format it every 2 weeks. From the posts that doesn't always fix the locking.

The battery problem is solved by sending them the cam for a £30 replacement battery.

And, don't get me started on the ball joint design that introduces vibration over less than perfect roads.