Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: Jocko on July 13, 2018, 06:30:25 PM
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I don't know if my car has an issue or not, but the throttle seems to be on a hair trigger. It is fine during normal driving. But you just have to breath on the throttle pedal, in neutral, for it to rev up to 2000 rpm. It is controllable, so I do not think there is a fault with the throttle position sensor, but it requires more control than I can give it. This leads to pulling away with loads of revs, or stalling due to not enough. The clutch is also quite fierce, which exacerbates the problem.
I sometimes think people must be looking for the car with L Plates! I don't play music in the car, while driving in town, to try and give me a better clue as to what the engine is doing.
After 25 years of driving automatics I thought it was just me, but I have had no problems jumping in and out of various works vans, and after 2 years, I thought I would have gotten used to it.
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I had the same issue with my previous mk3 it was much more sensitive than my previous car I had it for 2 years and never got used to it. It was one of the main reasons for switching to a cvt
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I use thin soled footwear when driving in order to get more feedback from the pedals as these days the pedals are largely a means to signal to the car whether to go faster or slower rather than directly controlling the car.
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I find there is very little feedback through the clutch pedal, and the fact that you can hardly hear the engine doesn't help.
What made things really difficult was when the EGR was playing up.
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I recently changed the clutch fluid in my 2003 Jazz which transformed it, it had been jerky at car park speeds and almost unmanageable, kangarooing and stuttering,I needed to rev it to keep from stalling and slip the clutch to keep it smooth. I had thought it was the EGR valve and possibly it was that as well, cleaning the EGR valve did help a bit, but changing the clutch fluid made a massive difference, the clutch itself feels firmer to operate but it has cured all the kangarooing and stuttering, smoothing out the whole low speed driving experience.
I dont know when (or if) the clutch fluid was changed before as I just started doing my own servicing this year, the old stuff was black in colour and didn't seem to be doing anything, the clutch pedal was very light before I changed it but it now has a lot more resistance. I had to remove the air filter box to get to the bleeding nipple/valve but the job it self is pretty simple, might be worth a try if it hasn't been done in some time.
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Thanks. I'll get my mechanic to give that a try. The fluid looks clean but I have no idea if and when it was changed last.
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I only changed mine because I was already doing the brakes and had some fluid left, I didn't actually expect it to change anything, just ticking jobs off a list, so it was a pleasant surprise.
It is a really easy diy job if you can be bothered to strip out half your engine bay and have hands like a double jointed child.
Top tip, make sure you remove your spanner from the bleed nipple BEFORE rebuilding everything, I found that not doing this made me very angry and emotional, but it does give your workmates a good laugh!
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Top tip, make sure you remove your spanner from the bleed nipple BEFORE rebuilding everything, I found that not doing this made me very angry and emotional, but it does give your workmates a good laugh!
As a maintenance engineer for 30+ years, it won't be the first time I have done something like that!
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Top tip, make sure you remove your spanner from the bleed nipple BEFORE rebuilding everything, I found that not doing this made me very angry and emotional, but it does give your workmates a good laugh!
As a maintenance engineer for 30+ years, it won't be the first time I have done something like that!
Nor me. :-[
Good tip re clutch fluid though, it's often neglected when on a seperate reservoir. I've got to do the brake fluid at some point, so I'll do the clutch at the same time.