Have just cleaned my EGR, so some additional feedback.
Car, UK Jazz Se 1.4 2008 CVT, about 80k miles. From time to time, about one month or so for the last year, it has exhibited a hiccup (or hesitation) and always after 2-5 miles from home (or cold) when then engine would appear to be transitioning between cold and hot and it hiccups if you have been coasting or gradually slowing down then apply some power (only a little needed) to load the engine power to maintain speed or slightly increase speed.
At no time have there been any warning lights, etc.
I found the following posts most useful:
Page 5, post 68 from onefourkrpm the photo
Page 7, post 95 from madasfish the no check light diagnosis
Page 7, post 103 from mink the instructions
I add the following:
Buy a new gasket before you start only available from Honda for £8-£10.
Buy 2 new EGR bolts, flange M8 x 25
Here is the parts diagram link
https://www.parts-honda.uk/honda-cars/JAZZ/2008/14-SE/ENGINE/EGR-VALVE/17SAA801/E__0410/1/22267I had a 1/2inch drive 12mm socket with 12 faces it would not fit on because the socket shoulder was fouling the EGR body. You will need a socket with a 3/8inch drive so less shoulder and less socket height. I bought a new one and it just fitted the height was about 1mm too high so it just wiggled on to the front bolt. The rear bolt was an easier fit.
Use a 6 face socket as the bolt will be tight a 12 face socket will be prone to slipping and turning the bolt head faces into a round bolt (I tried with my badly fitting 12 face 1/2 inch socket and very quickly realised the bolt head was starting to deform.)
You will need a socket extension bar.
My bolts were tight. Trying the tighten up trick did not work. So I used a hammer for a couple of sharp blows onto the extension bar onto each bolt. Then try to undo the bolt be patient, ensure your socket and extension bar are properly aligned vertically and gradually increase the turning pressure. It need a fair bit of pressure was using a 8inch socket lever handle and then the bolt moved.
Undo each bolt about 2 turns. Then apply pressure to the EGR body to release the gasket. When loose remove the bolts and EGR.
My gasket came away almost 100% intact, however about 50% of the gasket was exhibiting some sort of damage, rather like when cardboard goes when wet. The damage was concentrated on the out side of each gas port hole where the pressure on the gasket would be least from the bolts.
On refitting the EGR, I used a torque wrench to refit 16 ftlb has been mentioned somewhere in this thread