advice -- knocking when turning over bumps

[johnboro]

Thanks both. I took it to a local mechanic I trust for a look underneath on a jack. We verified the arb linkers are detached (left) and on the way (right), and he didn't like the state of the condenser which has the typical stone damage and probably causes the A/C leak -- though there could of course be others.

If these were properly fixed I'd happily keep the car as I'm struggling to find a better one for £300-£400 more, which then could also have similar issues anyway. But I don't want to go up and down to the dealer chasing down an A/C leak. It seems to me like the dealer thinks he can fix them well enough to sell, and eventually sell the car for more then I paid. Otherwise it's hard to explain why they offered a fix last night then changed their mind today.

[sparky Paul]

If you want to keep the car, make a list of the defects you want fixing and give it the dealer in writing. Try to get a response from him in writing, if you can. None of the problems you have are difficult to repair, any competent aircon specialist should be have the equipment to find any leaks and repair them. My condenser looks terrible, but it's the aluminium cooling fins that have rotted away, the actual pipework is all intact and the aircon still works remarkably well.

It's a bit more worrying that one of the ARB links is actually detached, it takes quite a while for them to get in that state. I wonder what else has been neglected?

[johnboro]

Thanks Paul. They now have the car and are working on the suspension and air con. I will request a list of what they have actually done so that if necessary I can take it round the corner for an inspection to verify. The local garage that inspected it thought it was a fine deal if the linker and air con are properly fixed at no cost, so I'm persisting with it for now. If anything else comes up or if the A/C leaks to death in a week I will go back and give them what for again.

Thanks for the advice all.

[sparky Paul]

The local garage that inspected it thought it was a fine deal if the linker and air con are properly fixed at no cost, so I'm persisting with it for now.

That sounds fair enough. Without actually seeing the car, it's hard to know if it's worth persevering... but if someone who has actually seen the car it's worthwhile, that's worth something.

[johnboro]

The local garage that inspected it thought it was a fine deal if the linker and air con are properly fixed at no cost, so I'm persisting with it for now.

That sounds fair enough. Without actually seeing the car, it's hard to know if it's worth persevering... but if someone who has actually seen the car it's worthwhile, that's worth something.

Good point. Got the car back today, both links were replaced, suspension feels good, and the A/C is cold, fixed at no cost of course. Allegedly there are no leaks in the system on the basis of a vacuum test for which they provided a readout, but I'll use it a lot and see how it holds up. Today I also spent a very long time looking for rust to get a feel for where I am -- a bit on the border of the rear top door seals (I guess these doors get used less) but I pulled the seals up and it's just surface, so went at it with a bit of rust converter. The underside is quite rusty but that goes for every example I've seen. So, for now I think I'm in ok shape.

It will be due a service at some point and the MOT runs out just after 6 months time. I'll bring that MOT forward I think, so with that and a service I'll get an idea if there are any big problems that warrant further recourse to the dealer within the 6 months Consumer Rights Act period.

[sparky Paul]

You can test it a month early and get 13 months on the new certificate, if that helps.

The vacuum test is not totally infallible, but it usually finds anything significant. For some of the really tricky slow leaks, you sometimes have to resort to dye in the refrigerant, or the sniffer gadget.

One tip, make sure you use the aircon regularly, even in winter - it can be useful for demisting. Running the aircon, at least for a few minutes every week, distributes the PAG oil around the system seals and gaskets, helping prevent leaks.

[SuperCNJ]

Thanks both. I took it to a local mechanic I trust for a look underneath on a jack. We verified the arb linkers are detached (left) and on the way (right), and he didn't like the state of the condenser which has the typical stone damage and probably causes the A/C leak -- though there could of course be others.

If these were properly fixed I'd happily keep the car as I'm struggling to find a better one for £300-£400 more, which then could also have similar issues anyway. But I don't want to go up and down to the dealer chasing down an A/C leak. It seems to me like the dealer thinks he can fix them well enough to sell, and eventually sell the car for more then I paid. Otherwise it's hard to explain why they offered a fix last night then changed their mind today.

I have recently noticed that we have an identical problem. The noise seems to come from the rear drivers side wheel area. I'm just wondering if you can explain exactly what your mechanic discovered. What do you mean by arb linkers?

I am trying to gauge the cost of repair and if its something I can fix myself?

Any help would be much appreciated!

[Jocko]

arb is Anti Roll Bar, commonly referred to as a Drop Link. I bought two, two years ago, and they cost me £24.
Strut Rod/Stabiliser on this drawing here:
https://www.moogparts.co.uk/catalogue.html#fitment_id=16816&search_type=vehicle&brand_id=2100
There were two different types fitted to the Jazz. One type is square and the other has a slight skew. Make sure you get the right parts.
They are fitted at the front of the car, but identifying where the noise comes from, front or rear, is very difficult.

[SuperCNJ]

arb is Anti Roll Bar, commonly referred to as a Drop Link. I bought two, two years ago, and they cost me £24.
Strut Rod/Stabiliser on this drawing here:
https://www.moogparts.co.uk/catalogue.html#fitment_id=16816&search_type=vehicle&brand_id=2100
There were two different types fitted to the Jazz. One type is square and the other has a slight skew. Make sure you get the right parts.
They are fitted at the front of the car, but identifying where the noise comes from, front or rear, is very difficult.

Thanks. This is really helpful thanks.

I think it's difficult to pinpoint the exact location of the noise but from driving around it does seem to be coming from the drivers side rear wheel area. We have a 2005 Sport.

If it turns out to be the rear ARB/Drop Link as per the OP's car, do you think this is something I can replace my self or is this a job for a mechanic?



 

[Jocko]

There is no rear anti roll bar on the Jazz. It has a beam rear axle.

[SuperCNJ]

Hmm... back to the drawing board then! 

The strange thing is, we seem to have the same symptoms as the OP. It only seems to make a noise (knocking sound/twang) when turning left and when I hit a pot hole or something.

The exhaust looks to be secure, so don't think it's that.

[Jocko]

Check the exhaust clearance between the middle box and the inside of the sill. I had a new exhaust fitted, it was lovely and tight, but it started tapping on the inner sill as I turned left. Just behind the driver's seat!
Contacted the garage and the guy came out to my work and tweaked (Bent!) the brackets slightly. I have had no further problems.

[johnboro]

Sounds like front drop links like mine if it’s the same symptoms. I guess I could have heard mine as coming from the rear too.

[sparky Paul]

ARB droplinks can be really noisy, usually a hard metallic knocking which is very distinctive. As the actual anti roll bar is fixed to the front subframe, the noise can transit around the car body - it can sometimes be difficult to figure out where the noise is coming from.

If a knock is definitely at the rear, favourites are exhaust, as mentioned above, and something rattling about in the spare wheel well. 

[Jocko]

I have had a knocking noise, over bumps, for the passed three months. My son-in-law checked it out and found nothing other than a loose exhaust heat shield, the car went for its MOT and nothing showed up, and I had decided it was something knocking, either the exhaust or something in the boot.
Today I went to get my tracking checked (see other post), and they reported that the offside drop link was worn and causing the noise. They replaced it and now the car is silent again.
The point is, the noise didn't seem to becoming from the front offside. Sometimes it seemed to be behind me, other times the front nearside. It goes to show how difficult it is to pinpoint the source of a noise in a car.