Honda Jazz semi automatic does not want to move

[john24]

Hi all,

Yesterday got stranded at screwfix carpark after my Honda Jazz (1.4 iVtec, 2010) refused to move forward. I have an engine issue where the cylinder 2 has low compression (currently looking at getting this sorted) but the car seems to have issues with gearbox as well now (I am not sure if the two can be linked).

When you start the car while its cold the engine runs rough, but once wormed up it seems to be perfectly fine and revs ok. However last night and now today when you put in into A or 1 mode, it seems to engage the gear but once you let the foot of the brake pedal it will not move forward as if the clutch is failing to disengage. It might slightly lurch forward but that's it, essentially you can't move forward at all. And trying to rev the engine does nothing, but can be revved just fine in neutral.
Brakes are fine and do disengage since the car can roll, so it's not being held back by it.

I am not sure how to diagnose this issue. Any suggestions?
Thank you.

[john24]

So after further reading and investigations I'm suspecting it's the clutch actuator. Today I started the car out it into gear and the engine just cut out, so I tried again and kept the rpm around 2K, and every 3 second the RPM kept dropping to around 1.1K, so I checked in the engine bay and I saw that the gear lever kept trying to move but then return. When it moved the RPM would drop and when it returned the RPM went back up. So clearly it's not able to engage the gear properly and after that I had a warning for hight gearbox temperate, so clutch was not disengaging properly I think.

[Kremmen]

The Honda iShift wasn't a good gearbox and knowledgeable specialists are hard to find.

You may have to go expensive dealer.

[john24]

I will try to avoid a dealer if I can.

Today I though I'll try and have a look at the clutch actuator and while making my way to it I realised that the hydraulic clutch DOT4 reservoir was empty and once filled up the line was full of air as well.

I've bled the system there was a lot of air in it and took the car for a test drive and WOW, it's smoother than when I bought it! So yeah having air in your hydraulic clutch is not great!

[Kremmen]

Good spot and fix 

[Lord Voltermore]

I dont want to put a dampener on it  but the fluid shouldnt drop unless there is a leak somewhere.  It might only be a temporary fix. But keeping it topped up, and being able bleed  it again yourself if necessary  might keep it serviceable for years and outlast the car.

[GBH]

How did you bleed the clutch?

Normally you need to press the pedal but, obviously, there is no pedal on this.

[john24]

When you turn the ignition on it will engage the hydraulic clutch, then off and on and off and on.
There might be a better way but this worked really well

[Jocko]

You can do it by pressure or even by suction. There are cheap kits for pressure bleeding.

https://www.eurocarparts.com/p/streetwize-vehicle-clutch-brake-bleeder-tool-kit-548993220?gclid=Cj0KCQjwi46iBhDyARIsAE3nVravxVswD5CuOGw9qNqijY8CFKESm62Y9q2hbzlk3OQZsSkxltQMozMaAk0hEALw_wcB

[Maurice]

Where's the bleed screw/nipple?

[Jocko]

Normally on the top or end of the clutch slave cylinder.

[Kremmen]

I don't think the iShift has a slave cylinder as it's all internal.

[GBH]

I don't think the iShift has a slave cylinder as it's all internal.

For some reason I have missed the last few posts on this thread but thought that it would be useful for someone searching in the future to mention that the slave cylinder is attached to the outside of the gearbox/clutch as per a conventional manual gearbox.

I can see mine by looking down the front of the engine (the right hand side when standing in front of the car) and it looks much newer (cleaner and shiny) than surrounding metal, so presumably changed when under previous ownership.