2014 Jazz Purchase Advice

[Jazzy]

Just wanting to make sure it's the best decision with all the points I've mentioned in the thread.

Hoping there's no downsides to the 2014 vs the 2009. I've seen a lot of v positive 2013 reviews.....as far as I can tell no difference from 2013 to 2014?

A lot of older Jazz love in the comments and heartbreaking video!:

and this is handy: https://clubjazz.org/forum/index.php?topic=4420.0

[DAN@ADRIAN FLUX]

Hi.
If you need any help with insurance at all then please feel free to drop me a line.
Regards,
Dan.

[2robbie2]

Hi Jazzy

Similar to you and others on this thread, I prefer the external design of the Mark 2 Jazz. However, I don't think there would be any noticeable difference between its engine and that in the Mark 3 for the reasons others have alluded to. I wouldn't know why there is a powderiness on the engine surface of the car you have put a deposit on, but then again I wouldn't expect an 11 year old engine to look brand new.

I would definitely have no issue buying an older Mark 2 if that is all I could afford as I think they are a great car. My only reflection on this is that if I had the additional money (in this case circa £1,500), I would prefer to buy a much younger 2019 Mark 3 (1.3 S) of similar mileage;- if for no other reason than I would expect it to have suffered less degradation over time with easier availability of parts (all rubber parts/hoses in the car have a lifespan and will usually need replacing sooner on an older car).

In response to your other queries, the air-con on the Mark 3 is OK, and similar to your old car needs to be switched on to clear the windscreen (which it does reasonably quickly). I wouldn't worry about the fuel pump issue - there was a recall on the affected models and I had mine replaced a year ago as part of this (and the old one seemed to be working fine anyway) - if it was still outstanding on any Mark 3 you wanted to purchase, this would show-up via the GOV MOT website. In terms of the boot, this was reduced in depth from the 2018/19 models onwards so that you cannot store a full size spare wheel, but it can accommodate a space saver spare wheel as I have one in mine (with the boot floor slightly proud of this and covered by a rubber Honda Jazz boot liner).

There are 1.3 S models available on Autotrader with a similar mileage to that which you have put a deposit on, although those currently around £9,000 are not with a Honda dealer (but then again, neither is the Mark 2 you are interested in) - I have attached a weblink to one below. You could also decide to just sit it out - a Mark 3 (1.3 S) is bound to come up sooner or later nearby if you change your mind. 

Good luck!

https://www.autotrader.co.uk/car-details/202507094307985?sort=price-asc&twcs=true&searchId=263892b6-2bff-41d0-9656-d4fcd5b17733&advertising-location=at_cars&aggregatedTrim=S&exclude-writeoff-categories=on&make=Honda&maximum-mileage=40000&model=Jazz&page=1&postcode=TQ7+1UD&year-from=2019&year-to=2019&fromsra=&backLinkQueryParams=advertising-location%3Dat_cars%26aggregatedTrim%3DS%26channel%3Dcars%26exclude-writeoff-categories%3Don%26homeDeliveryAdverts%3Dinclude%26make%3DHonda%26maximum-mileage%3D40000%26model%3DJazz%26postcode%3DTQ7%25201UD%26sort%3Dprice-asc%26year-from%3D2019%26year-to%3D2019%26flrfc%3D1&calc-deposit=920&calc-term=48&calc-mileage=10000&calc-selected-product=HP

[Jazzy]

I am leaning towards sticking with the 2014. It had a new battery fitted too.

I've been told by a mechanic, the powdering on the aluminium is likely oxidisation which is self-protecting.

As it is apparently free of rust now (I will get it all checked over after collection) I'm wondering if there is a permanent rust protection treatment I could get on it? The mechanic mentioned Schutz underseal or Lanoguard but that would be a yearly or so 200 quid investment.

I have seen the service stamps and it spent most of it's life inland in the middle of the UK by the looks of it....which I guess has helped keep it in good condition.

[2robbie2]

I think it will be a safe enough purchase Jazzy - and its geographic location & low mileage should have reduced the risk of any rust. I think the underseal is a wise investment - I haven't done it myself, but have considered it (I just don't know enough about it to have convinced myself to do it yet).

Good luck! 

[Keekster71]

How did you get the imports? I don't know enough to be confident in any of that.

In the 2009's I viewed I've never seen any rust around the petrol cap. Mine only had specks of rust where the door edge had chipped and hadn't been touched up with paint pen quick enough and break discs obv get v rusty in our climate.

The 2014 I put deposit on has no signs of rust anywhere; wheel arches etc look surprisingly clean and new.

I'm always after manual not CVT.

One of my imports was bought off a retired guy who had personally imported them.  He no longer trades. However, the car was in mint condition with just 7500 miles on the clock. The other two were bought from a trader in Wishaw near Glasgow (Japan Motors).  Their customer service was terrible, but having owned and bought many classic cars over the years, I can examine a car carefully to see if it meets my requirements.  Both cars were in good condition with about 40k miles on them.  I gave both a good service and underseal before I used them.

[Keekster71]

I am leaning towards sticking with the 2014. It had a new battery fitted too.

I've been told by a mechanic, the powdering on the aluminium is likely oxidisation which is self-protecting.

As it is apparently free of rust now (I will get it all checked over after collection) I'm wondering if there is a permanent rust protection treatment I could get on it? The mechanic mentioned Schutz underseal or Lanoguard but that would be a yearly or so 200 quid investment.

I have seen the service stamps and it spent most of it's life inland in the middle of the UK by the looks of it....which I guess has helped keep it in good condition.

I apply undercoat to every car I buy.  Two of mine have been undercoated with dinitrol products.  Its pretty good, but I do find it peels off after a few years in high impact areas.  On my new car I experimented with lanolin products.  I didn't buy lanoguard as it is expensive and gives a very thin coat, which requires annual topping up.  Instead I bought pure lanolin (corrolan pure) from Rustbuster, heated it, and used their thinners to water it down to a 50/50 ratio.  Then I sprayed it on.  It gives a nice thick coat that will last many years.  I found it provide excellent protection in the scottish winter.  If never flakes off, and doesn't even seem to wash off in high impact areas.  I applied to everything, the suspension, the subframes, the body etc.  Brillaint stuff.  Also its organic, and used in moisturisers, so its fine on your skin, and easy to wash off with soap unlike oil based products

[Jazzy]

Thank you. Have you found that is the most 'permanent' underseal option? I've been told wax oil should also last several years. Have you found any way to treat the inner seals?

[Jazzy]

I thought it was rust free but they have said there will be some rust spots underneath. How much should I expect for that price and age?

[2robbie2]

Hi Jazzy - not a straightforward answer I'm afraid - unfortunately, it's one of those things that you would need to see in the flesh to establish if it is just some light surface rust or something deeper creating structural problems. Do you know somebody with some knowledge in this area that could go along and inspect the underside of the car for you? I would certainly expect some rust spots underneath a 2014 Jazz and it wouldn't necessarily put me off if it was some light spots in non-structural locations.

If you don't know anybody, I would not recommend you purchase until you had at least seen the bottom of the car yourself so you can form an opinion. However, I'm no expert on this and it's one of the reasons why my advice was to get a newer Jazz if you can afford it where any rust is less likely to have come to fruition. Hope this helps. 

[Jazzy]

Thank you 2robbie2. I got it inspected and had a look myself with the garage. There is some rust, you'd expect for the age. What do u think from the photos? They spotted the door had been resprayed and was a bit tight on the bottom and scraping when opening; so that is likely to rust soon. The car is good but the way the dealer has treated me has put me off wanting to leave my money with them. If they were a bit more willing to make a fair deal with the price....as it is on the high side and they have so far been unwilling to sort out the seatbelt and gearstick....which the garage believed Honda would have sorted those issues, plus u get the 12 month warranty; rather than 3. I have had other dealers comment u would expect 12 months at that price point. So I'm just a bit fed up with them but Honda don't have anything in atm. I would consider newer if there was a way to disconnect the bluetooth and wireless and ensure it is off. Do u not find the touchscreen annoying to use whilst driving? Do let me know if u see anything worth considering. I think the one u linked me is now gone.

[Jazzy]

More underbody

[Lord Voltermore]

I'm no expert But I'd say that rust is about normal for a 12 year old Jazz.On the plus side  I  dont think there are any recent applications of thick underseal etc  intentionally  hiding a potential  multitude of sins.  MOT testers are suspicious of such shenanigans.    IMO the car should last many years yet, and longer still  if  any rust is treated.   

But maybe too late  to start regular expensive  rust prevention  treatments  in the hope the car will last  for ever and end up as a museum exhibit   

I'm no expert either  on bluetooth etc  but AI says the following, (so it must be true  )

Bluetooth devices are not constantly transmitting at full power, but they do emit, at minimum, periodic, low-power signals to maintain connectivity or announce their availability, even when not actively transferring data.
Key details regarding Bluetooth transmission behavior:
Idle vs. Active: When not actively streaming audio or transferring data, devices enter a low-power, "sniff" or standby mode, checking in periodically rather than transmitting continuously.
Advertising/Discovery: If "discoverable," devices continuously broadcast signals to be found.
Active Connections: When paired and in use (e.g., headphones), they transmit in short, rapid bursts rather than a single, continuous stream.

I dont wish to alarm you further  but you cant always avoid  bluetooth transmissions entirely. They may come from a nearby car. Quite a few are transmitting in my home  including, ironically,two fitness watches. range is only about 5 metres.
And also wi fi signals from neigbours  homes etc. 
I can understand concerns about mobile phones transmitting right next to your brain etc .   But maybe any weak signals within the car might sometimes be an advantage  if they allow handsfree phone use etc.  (If the mk3 can do that).

I dont find  the touch screen any problem when driving for quick changes where no great 'button' precision or though  is required. Suject of course to paying attention to the road.   The Mk4 still features  some mechanical buttons which helps. Including volume ,seek and skip etc from the steering wheel.    For more precise inputs such as entering  addresses into the satnav  the moving car can cause some  misses due 'finger bounce ' . But this should only affect a  passenger  who can take their time. Its not something you should do anyway while driving

[Keekster71]

Thank you 2robbie2. I got it inspected and had a look myself with the garage. There is some rust, you'd expect for the age. What do u think from the photos? They spotted the door had been resprayed and was a bit tight on the bottom and scraping when opening; so that is likely to rust soon. The car is good but the way the dealer has treated me has put me off wanting to leave my money with them. If they were a bit more willing to make a fair deal with the price....as it is on the high side and they have so far been unwilling to sort out the seatbelt and gearstick....which the garage believed Honda would have sorted those issues, plus u get the 12 month warranty; rather than 3. I have had other dealers comment u would expect 12 months at that price point. So I'm just a bit fed up with them but Honda don't have anything in atm. I would consider newer if there was a way to disconnect the bluetooth and wireless and ensure it is off. Do u not find the touchscreen annoying to use whilst driving? Do let me know if u see anything worth considering. I think the one u linked me is now gone.

Sadly this is typical for a UK car, and is exactly the reason why I bought a japanese import.  In fact I now own 3, as my son 'borrowed' mine, so I had to buy another.  I own two 2008 models and a 2009.  I only found a tiny bit of rust on 2 of them, and the other was like it rolled out the factory

[Keekster71]

Thank you. Have you found that is the most 'permanent' underseal option? I've been told wax oil should also last several years. Have you found any way to treat the inner seals?

Nothing is permanent, but I found Corrolan to be the best product for the money.  I applied a coat when I bought my 2009 Fit when I bought it 2024.  I have found no evidence of the product flaking or failing despite the Scottish salt being applied to our roads for 6 months out of 12.
https://www.rust.co.uk/product/cat/underbody-and-cavity-waxes/corrolan-sustainable-rust-proofing/
Very happy with it and would use again.