After my previous Speaker install (see
here), I decided that whilst the sound was excellent, the lowest frequencies were not really filled in.
Rather than being a flat EQ curve, the sound was more like this:
![](http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/3967/21036818.png)
I wasn't looking for some kind of teenager chavy BoomBox "BombaClat upside ya face I aks ya" style:
![](http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/4751/28505914.png)
...but was rather looking for a flatter EQ curve that sounded more balanced with emphasis on SQ rather than SPL:
![](http://img718.imageshack.us/img718/5052/63811283.png)
This meant that I didn't want a gigantic box taking up my boot - with the added bonus of meaning that the boot is still usable and I can still get at my spare:
![](http://img859.imageshack.us/img859/2517/subwooferboot.jpg)
I'm still messing around with the settings, but I currently have the factory OEM Headunit set to "neutral" for bass and treble, with the
Alpine SWE-1000 set to the 10 o'clock position for LPF (so it cuts off at about 70Hz) and 11 o'clock for the Gain, and the Phase set to NORM.
There isn't much else to show because I routed all the wires through the existing trims and upholstery.
Firstly, I removed the radio using this guide (page 3):
http://collegehillshonda.com/instructions/fit/2009/usbadapter.pdfThen I used this guide to remove the center console (also has one metal screw to remove), again on page 3:
http://www.collegehillshonda.com/instructions/fit/2009/armrest.pdfI then spliced the Speaker wires into the supplied speaker level leads (Rear pair) and, because there is no "remote on" wire coming form the factory HU, I spliced the remote on lead onto the purple ACC input into the HU.
The UK 2010 Jazzes have a slightly different wiring system than those I've seen on the net:
![](http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/4959/audiowiringharnesscolou.png)
Proof (piccies of my Jazzes wiring loom for the radio before I vampire tapped it with the sub feeds):
![](http://img842.imageshack.us/img842/7883/wiringharnesstop.jpg)
![](http://i.imgur.com/K3o90OI.jpg)
Now, when doing the tapping, I didn't start my car and therefore didn't need to disconnect anything (useful to know you can do this without having to unplug the radio and therefore no radio code needed when you plug it all back in again).
All I did do with a multimeter is check that purple was indeed the Ignition On (ACC) feed.
Separate to this, if you look at the passenger side up into the bulkhead, you'll see a massive grommet with loads of wires entering the engine bay:
![](http://imageshack.com/a/img543/tgteghte.jpg)
This is useful because any wire going through here ends up less than a foot away from the battery so there is no worry about routing the wire all round the shops and over hot engine compartments:
![](http://i.imgur.com/thrthrth.jpg)
I used a coat hanger and simply fed the supplied +ve feed (fused) directly onto the battery:
![](http://img858.imageshack.us/img858/6480/subbrthal.jpg)
Where it runs back, it is suspended away from anything remotely hot (runs around an air intake and directly to the back of the engine bay):
![](http://imageshack.com/a/img855/3396/trhtrt.jpg)
Once into the cabin, I routed it over to the center console where the spkr lvl input (spliced) wires were dangling along with the spliced ACC "turn the sub on" feed.
Next, I added the subwoofer remote cable with the all the other leads down both sides of the transmission tunnel under the carpet - using the wire once again to tunnel under the carpet in the rear to the rear boot. Negative lead was screwed into the seatbelt base securely, sub then mounted to the extreme right of the boot (when looking from the rear). I could've left such a small cabinet underneath the rear seat, but the boot should give a better acoustic response as the cone is facing a larger enclosed space in the boot firing R to L (rather than directly up at the base of a seat or directly back towards the hatch door - the longest length to "fire into" is essential for deeper bass).
UPDATED Sub images SEE BELOWScrewed everything back into place and voila - all the wiring has disappeared!
The added bonus is that the Alpine remote for the sub has a blue LED, which I placed at the very end of the centre console (furthest forward I could put it, beyond the cupholders/ashtray thingy) with the result that it bathes the area with soft blue light - not unlike the Ambient Lighting option offered by Honda - only MUCH cheaper
![Wink ;)](https://clubjazz.org/forum/Smileys/SoLoSMiLeYS1/wink.gif)
![](http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/4rthler.jpg)
Overall, practically invisible, small enough to not impede the magic seats or boot space or ability to remove the spare wheel, loud enough to flatten out the sound curve, not loud enough to qualify for burberry accessories
![Grin ;D](https://clubjazz.org/forum/Smileys/SoLoSMiLeYS1/grin.gif)
, cheap enough (
£125) to be affordable...
I've update the post above with better piccies.
EDIT: Full install guide up here as well:
http://gafferlicious.com/jazz.html