Thanks guys

No customs for me, £23 for the module delivered from China.
Re: fuses, anything requiring them, simply wrap the end of the wire around one of the blades of the fuse and push it back into socket. It will be a tiny bit harder to push in but should go in ok.
For my car (which didn't have DRLs) I simply used the empty socket at fuse 15 and added my own 5A fuse there to supply me with Acc +ve. I did this way back when I added the fake alarm LED. I then added to it, so now it provides me with Acc 12v for the alarm LED, my DRLs and this new auto foldong circuit - all low power and all with nil problems (so basically, if you don't have a fuse in position 15, you may have to add your own like I did).
Re: switch - you do not need to remove it at all. Simply pull out the panel below where the headlight adjustment is, then reach up from behind (ooh er) and unplug the wiring harness from behind.
There are a few of wires here because it is also the mirror control, but just find the yellow and grey ones. You may need to remove some of the trunking around it (which is only taped in place). Once done, cut the yellow and grey wires and you'll end up with 4 wire ends, yellow and grey "button side" and yellow and grey "engine side". Connect them up as mentioned above.
I didn't even solder mine together as I wanted the option of reversing it easily if I wanted to - all I did was strip 1/2cm or so from the ends and twist them together with the module wires before taping them up with insulation tape. The module wires are plenty long enough to reach.
In fact, there's so much wire that you can finish by neatly tucking the module and its fuse behind the plastic panel that the fusebox diagram is printed on.
I thought about the risk of frozen wing mirrors myself but seeing as I habitually de-ice most of the time, I just need to remember to do the same for the side mirrors. Plus (I haven't tested this) but apparently the system deactivates if it detects increased strain in the circuit (like continued activations or high resistence). Again, I haven't tested this myself so I'll just have to be more mindful in cold weather.
Alternatively, you can manually deactivate the system by pressing the normal switch (i.e. press as if you wanted to fold them in yourself and you deactivate the circuit - the circuit only works if that manual switch is on) ...so I could just deactivate it in the winter...
EDIT: Just to clarify ...
Car running regardless of switch position = module deactivated (meaning you retain full manual control when driving/parking)
Car off but manual switch off = again, module deactivated (e.g. can do this in winter if worried about ice)
Car off and manual switch on = ONLY time module does anything (so making sure manual switch is on and then getting out of the car (engine off) and it does its auto fold/unfold thing with door lock/unlock)
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