Clubjazz - Honda Jazz & HR-V Forums
Honda Jazz Forums => Honda Jazz Mk1 2002-2008 => Topic started by: dave456 on February 26, 2018, 10:22:50 AM
-
hi members i have a honda jazz 1.4 cvt 2003 i would like to known witch is best spark plug for this car i know honda say ngk but i was going to try bosch plugs as any body else tried these plugs any advise would be help full
-
hi members i have a honda jazz 1.4 cvt 2003 i would like to known witch is best spark plug for this car i know honda say ngk but i was going to try bosch plugs as any body else tried these plugs any advise would be help full
I would stick with NGK or Denso, both excellent plugs widely used as OEM parts. Don't be tempted to buy really cheap plugs off internet sites as there are some dodgy copies around that could end you with a big repair bill if they fall apart in cylinder.
I use Opie for oil, oil filters air and cabin filters and plugs - top service and decent prices.
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-63563-ngk-bkr6e-11-2756-standard-spark-plug-sparkplug-projected-centre-electrode.aspx
if you prefer Denso..
https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-62898-denso-spark-plug-k20pr-u11.aspx
-
Changed mine today, used NGK, neglible price difference with Bosch, both reputable brands, shouldn't matter which you choose.
Engine management light came on afterwards, went out again after about 20 minutes revvy driving (AKA an Italian tune-up).
All seems well now!
-
Engine management light came on afterwards
Strange. Never had anything like that when we changed the plugs on my 06.
-
Probably my own error Jocko, when I put it all back together and fired it up I'd forgotten to re-connect the main cable at the front, although it started up & ran smoothly, I noticed it and plugged it in before I noticed engine light. So that's maybe what caused it.
Car ran smoother and quieter after changing plugs, they had been in there a number of years, local garage kept telling me they were fine, don't waste money replacing them for last few years which saved me £s to be fair, saved again by doing it myself, quids in.
-
Re. my above post, just to clarify, I now know the plug I left off was actually EGR valve & nothing to do with spark plugs, car's now stuttering a bit which I presume is EGR valve needing a clean (never been done, car's 15 years old) I've ordered gasket & carb cleaner to tackle this when I'm off work & weather is passable.
Sorry for any confusion, last time I worked on cars myself was circa 1990 (Ford Orion 1.6i). Things have moved on a bit since then, I'll catch up eventually!
-
Changed the 8 spark plugs today.
The back one were different. Front NGK and back BOSCH, and were more blacker. Goes to show that most people doesn't change the back ones.
It was very easy to do , just take your time and don't loose the screws.......
Took about 1 hr for all 8 plugs.
-
Plus 8 plugs only cost £16 Ngk plugs from gsf. Always doing a 59-60% every weekend.
-
When I first changed my plugs both sides were different. One side was NGK and the other Denso? And this car I had from new.
-
Plus 8 plugs only cost £16 Ngk plugs from gsf. Always doing a 59-60% every weekend.
Unfortunately there are lots of counterfeit parts on the market, China is a massive producer of sub-standard parts with well known names on them. Plenty of people been victims on other forums including motorbike forums. The plugs will have steel cores instead of copper alloy and plating and threads suspect.
https://thecounterfeitreport.com/product/400/Ngk-Spark-Plugs.html
-
C. I understand your sceptism, however even normal retail prices can be counterfeit.
-
C. I understand your sceptism, however even normal retail prices can be counterfeit.
But less likely to be :-X
-
The plugs I used were NGK which cost about £16 for 8 from an apparently (as well as you can tell) reputable seller on ebay, this was the going rate for these spark plugs from lots of sellers, when I changed them it was identical ones I removed, these are standard life plugs, should be changed at 12,000 miles or thereabouts, more expensive, extended life ones are available from NGK and other brands. I have no reason to suspect the plugs I got were counterfeit, I am a former engineer and examined them before fitting, all appeared in order.
GSF are a reputable company, I am sure the plugs they sold you are the genuine standard life plugs, by the way, they last a lot longer than 12000 miles.
-
Last year I bought 8 off NKG BKR6E-11 plugs from TMS Motor Spares, a reputable motor factor here in Scotland, and they cost £14.98.
-
I recently replaced the four front sparkplugs, how hard is it to replace the back four, how deep are they?
-
My son-in-law did mine, but he found the rear ones easier than the front. GD does not require the dismantling that later models require, just to gain access.
-
These are the tolls that i used. The middle extension is 125mm. These were used to remove back 4 spark plugs.
-
My son-in-law did mine, but he found the rear ones easier than the front. GD does not require the dismantling that later models require, just to gain access.
rear ones easier than the front?
I think most people that have done the plugs on a GD engine will say that the front ones are easier than the rear ones!
-
On the 1.4l 2004 early model there is a plastic cover over the front spark plug covers, and partially gets in the way of removing the back plugs which removes with 2 screws.
The back four are only marginally less difficult but with the right tools and carefull not to drop screws/spark plugs down the back of the engine where they should not go it should be just as quick.
:)
-
It wasn't overly difficult, it was just the access that was a bit trickier than the front, the tools I had weren't absolutely perfect for the job but I managed anyway, there's always a way to make do, even if , as a last resort, you have to go and buy some tools, it's still cheaper than going to a garage.
I found it easier to use a socket bar (with a 'knuckle' joint on it) as it lets you turn the plugs with the handle of the bar at any angle you like, my ratchet is fixed at 90 degrees, so was harder to get in between the top of the engine and the bulkhead (the panel behind it), longer handle on the bar also gives you more leverage than shorter handle on most ratchets if they are a bit seized in.
Good luck.
-
before changing your plugs make sure you have a long enough extension for your plug socket, they are really deep.