Never changed any pads ( even genuine Honda ) where I didn't have to reduce the width of pad 'ears' - when you stamp out thick metal like the pad backing plates the sides of the stamping is not parallel but tapered. I just parallel them up so that there is about half a mm of clearance.
After watching 4-5 YouTube videos on changing brakes, not a single one mentioned this! Do you use a metal file? I don't think I have the tools to do this (vice etc)
it is important that the pad ears and caliper pins are free to slide easily. Also check that the rubber concertina bellows on slide pins are not split and are seated properly on the boss at each end, if water and dirt can get in the pins will probably seize up.
They certainly do not slide easily in the clips. They're wedged in there a bit. Is this likely to be my problem here? It seems like it to me. I removed the caliper pins, cleaned them up and used a special lube for them. They seem to move back and forth quite easily and the rubber boot stretches (concentias) with the pin. I'm not sure if it's relevant, but when fully pushed in, one of the rubber bellows pushes in so it's ribbed, one pushes in with some of the ribs folded 'outwards'. When the pins are pulled out they look the same.
When you buy Honda pads you do get all the clips and shims and also new caliper bolts with blue threadlock paint on the thread, and sachets of molybdenum grease .
I'm tempted to just order some if it will give me an easier time, and put the Bosch ones down as a loss and experience mistake. I've been trying to find just the clips online.
when you put new discs on did you check for any rust bumps on disc mating face?. As these need to very flat then check any run out by turning disc around with a dti ( dial test indicator ) if ok then install cailpers and pads. So the noise could be run out of discs as it's turning ( touching not touching then touching again being repeated ). Or lip on old discs catching first but seeing as you put on new discs give that a miss, Can you jack up the side that is making a noise, then turn tyre and listen for noise
I wire brushed the face down, sprayed with brake cleaner, painted on some copper slip and put on the new discs. I don't have a dti tool to check. I haven't lifted the wheel since going for the test drive. The wheels did spin freely before I put the car down and pumped the brakes. If it stops raining I will try this. What will I learn from doing this that I don't already know from hearing the 'pulsing' rubbing noise while driving at slow speeds?